Adamw

You do not need to change any settings and "send" unless you want to change settings. To power cycle, just unplug the 4 pin DTM and plug it back in. You can, but you should only do so if you already have another lambda device assigned to Lambda 1. The default bit rate is 1MBit, you would generally only change that if you need it to match some other device that is not configurable.

The US terminology is different to what we use here. What you call "Early Gen 2" we call a V1, this uses the ST185 ECU. What you call "Late Gen 2" we call V2 and it uses the ST205 ECU. What you call "Gen 3" we call V3, and it uses the ST205 ECU. But this user says he has the ST185 ECU, and his log shows the trigger is working so his car must have the ST185/V1/Early Gen2 pinout. So Im not sure how your ST205 pinouts are relevant. Unless there is another odd version like I mentioned finding earlier which uses a mix of the ST185/205 differences..

Attach both your current ecu config and dash config and I will take another look.

You cant change units with the GP speed inputs, this is just due to the way the code applies the calibration value to it. You will have to change the DI function to one of the wheel speeds.

Definitely something a bit odd going on with the MAP sensor, but I would still expect some signs of life. Can you unplug the MAP sensor just to check that the AN Volt 3 voltage changes. You can view the voltage in the run-times screen (F12). Also watch the AN Volt 4 when you unplug the MAP. I have come across a USDM car once that had an odd pinout that seemed like it was a combination of ST205 & ST185 and we had to move a couple of wires from memory. It had an air flow meter and many other ST185 features, but the pionout was more ST205. Dont know if that was just a hacked up old car or factory though.

. 4AGE 20V start only Monsoon.pclr.pclx

Not enough info. Is it not turning on because it has been wired wrong or because it is not set up in the ECU software?

Delaying power up may help. What they are meant to have is low voltage to the heater during the condensation phase but you dont have any control over what the manufacturer decided in this case. The suggested 20 seconds sounds ok.

The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal. The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black. If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below. The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom. Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity: Set multimeter to DC mV. Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other. Hold a piece of metal touching the sensing end of the sensor - something like a steel rule or spanner works well. Quickly pull the metal object away from the sensor while watching the multimeter. If the multimeter shows negative voltage while you move the metal away then the multimeter leads are indicating the correct wiring polarity (i.e the pin that the red lead is connected to is your + signal wire). If it shows positive voltage then wire the sensor opposite to how the multimeter was connected.

As I said right at the beginning, you will need an oscilloscope to diagnose, otherwise you are just stabbing in the dark. You need to start at the sensor, see what the waveform looks like, see which side if any is connected to ground, then find where the signal is being lost or interpreted wrong by your circuit. I have used the VEMS device numerous times with no drama, it is a pretty basic device with good documentation so there is not much that can go wrong. It could be something like your ABS doesnt reference ground on either side of the sensor.

Yes. I suspect if this tacho was originally connected to the ignition coil negative post, then it will be what is known as a "high level tacho" - it is designed to be triggered by the 40-50V inductive kick from the ignition coil so wont work when directly connected to the ECU aux output that only outputs a 12V pulse. You will need a tacho booster connected between the ecu and tacho like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596

So probably the Supra base map will be a decent starting point. You will have to change all the inputs and outputs to match your harness.

66 & 67 are sensors grounds so they are fine to use. 78 is actually the sensor ground originally dedicated to the O2 sensors.

There is nothing in the ecu I can think of that would tell the fans to turn off at high temp. Most tuners would set up the rev limit to be lowered when the engine is over-heating but there is generally no relationship to the E-throttle. So if your E-throttle is going into limp mode it sounds like you have some other possibly un-related issue.

Just set DI4 to a wheel speed like I said.

What ECU do you have? Is it running piggy backed with the stock ecu?

It would be strongly recommended to check the base timing - it is highly likely that could be half your problem. The trigger is the the distributor in these cars and it can be rotated something like 20 cam degrees (40 crank degrees) so no two cars are going to have the same offset. Load in the map below which will be closer in terms of fuel and I have adjusted idle control to try to get that to kick in. tunning185 V2.pclx

That "load axis" setting only changes the fuel table axis it doe not affect the MAP multiplier that works in the background. So there shouldnt be any difference here. There are 2 most likely factors that could affect the tune: The G3 didnt use the AFR target table as an openloop multiplier, the G4X does by default. The equivilent in G4X would be to set Open Loop Lambda Correction to off. The injector driver design is quite different between these two ecus, the deadtimes will likely be quite different.

Mostly looks ok. Coolant Temp sensor is wrong. One wire should connect to the AN Temp input, the other wire should connect to sensor ground. Dont forget TPS and MAP will also need a 5V and sensor ground connection. Wheel speed sensor - assuming it is a two wire sensor will need one wire connected to the DI and the other wire to sensor ground. You will most likely also want to think about other stuff you want the ecu to control such as fuel pump, thermo fan, tacho, speedo, etc. Everything else looks ok.

For speed you will need to set your DI4 to one of the wheel speeds. GP Speed isnt transmitted to the dash. For gear position you will need to assign driven wheel speed in the >chassis and Body>speed sources menu to whatever wheel you set for DI4, then in >chassis and Body>Gear detection you will need to set it to RPM/Speed and then perform the gear calibration. Instructions are in the help file.

Can you attach your map, it will have a .pclx file extension. What size are your injectors? Have you checked base timing with a timing light?

For a small set-up like this I would typically have the one main relay that does ECU, injectors, coils, wideband and any 12V sensors. Correct. Make sure the 12V side of the relay coil is ignition switched - not live all the time.

My understanding is 2007-2011 has basically the same CAN, 2012-2014 is different (but I dont yet know how different), then 2015-2017 is different again. Initial research suggests the same ecu should work from 2007-2017 but I still need to test and confirm that.

Logic level would be a few milliamp only - enough to drive a transistor. In the plug-in ecus where Inj7/8 are used as aux outputs, a circuit like below is fitted to the bottom board.

A g4+ map should be less than 230Kb. Otherwise you can share it using dropbox, onedrive, google drive or similar service.