Adamw

I actually had another R33 Gtst map across my desk today and that was showing a fault on Inj 6 also - so I suspect there is probably noting wrong and it is just caused by the fuel pump controller holding the aux at an odd voltage. To check fuel pressure you would usually temporarily connect a gauge. I just have mine on a long hose and tape it to the windscreen or similar. A tuner would typically have this kit as it is common diagnostics.

There is definitely no Aux 4 pin on the JZX. All the base maps I can find dont have Aux 4 assigned to fan.

Yeah its typically to eliminate tip in knock. With some engines once you have steady state tuned the ignition table to MBT, you will find it will knock on heavy transients. You would typically only enable this after fully tuning the ignition table, and then only if required which is why I told him to turn it off at the beginning. The E36 map is quite old - from G4 days so it has probably just been enabled by mistake.

Various things can cause the aux output to show a fault state - it doesnt always mean there is a problem or it is not working - just means the voltages arent changing as expected. For instance if the output is loaded enough that the pull-up cant pull it all the way up to 12V when off then it will show a fault. It would be worth checking fuel pressure also.

Yes, perfect. Great strategy for NA with ITB's, 115 KPa MAP will be ideal. Doesnt need to be #1, any runner is fine, we are just looking for a unique event that happens once every 720 degs. The trigger offset tells the ECU how far away TDC is from the missing tooth and the "sync tooth" setting tells the ecu how far away from the missing tooth to do the MAP level test. Trigger wheel needs to be a missing tooth type for MAP sync. I'll post a triggerscope from a MAP sync engine later if I remember. But basically when the intake valve opens you will have a depression in MAP, once per two revs. So you first do a trigger scope and look at where the minimum MAP occurs, lets say it is the 10th tooth after the missing tooth. So set your sync tooth to 10. Then in the trigger scope we look at what MAP value you have at tooth #10 in the first revolution and the MAP value in the same location on the 2nd revolution. Lets say MAP was 100kpa at tooth 10 on the first rev and 85KPa on the 2nd rev. In this case you would set the MAP offset to something like 10Kpa. So as long as the ECU sees a 10Kpa drop in MAP at the correct point in the cycle it then knows that is the intake stroke and can sync. That offset value is very engine specific, depending on how far the throttles are open and cam overlap etc. Some you may see a 30kpa drop, others only a 5kpa drop. The reason it is a relative offset rather than an absolute value is MAP/BAP varies from day to day so having an absolute value it means if the baro changed significantly you may never achieve your sync pressure. Make sure the MAP sensor is connected to AN Volt 1 as this is logged with the triggerscope so you can use this to work out the correct value for your MAP offset.

yes.

Yeah they are difficult to crimp. I have a few micro crimp tools that do them well but are a bit pricey to recommend for a 1off. Try Iwiss IWS- 2820M.

I have had this on a 2JZ before too, they seem to be sensative to oil viscosity or something as I have also had them work well with the default PID. In the case of the one that didnt work well for me the only thing I needed to change was set PID to custom and reduce the proportional to 4.

The important thing to understand is even if the pressure change is much bigger than I suggest, a change in BAP is only going to move the look up on the MGP axis - BAP has no direct effect on the fuel equation. The only thing you are doing is moving the cross hairs on the fuel table and if you look at any rally car fuel table it is pretty near flat. For I/C spray you can use any spare digital input for the switch and any injector/ignition or aux output for the relay. The AC ones would do fine. There are also spare aux outputs and DI on the expansion connector.

The R33 gtst doesnt even have a fuel pump controller as far as I know, so that fault is probably irrelevant. Is this "sputtering" a new problem? Has it been tuned and it has been running well previously?

Both VR sensor wires need to be connected to the input end and the pin 5 needs to be connected to ecu sensor ground.

Correct, it will detect knock on all cylinders, just cant tell which one and you can retard just one - when it detects knock, it retards all cylinders by the knock trim.

Im with rrob here. Before going overboard and wasting a valuable input I suggest you log the internal BAP to see if there is any speed influence. I highly doubt a roof vent will do F all. Even with highly developed venturi airboxes from Lemans cars etc you will be lucky to achieve 3kpa at 250kmh from aerodynamic pressure. When that is acting on the turbo intake and multiplied by the pressure ratio it is quite a valuable increase to have. However in your case it is not acting on the turbo intake, it is only acting on the ecu case. So if we fantasize that you do achieve the same 3kpa of aerodynamic pressure in the cabin/ecu case, and you are running only 1 bar boost at max speed, the only thing that 3kpa change in BAP is going to do is move the cell lookup on the fuel table axis by 1.5%. Based on the VE curve of a typical rally engine that will end up causing a 0% change in fuel mixture. You are probably better to use that input for monitoring something that has a bigger influence such as fuel pressure.

Dont buy a sensor of aliexpress, it will almost certainly not be a genuine bosch and you will be lucky if it even works let alone the unknown accuracy. You can buy genuine item locally from MSEL or NZEFI for NZD140. Personally if you have a little time up your sleeve I would suggest a 14point7 spartan2, about $USD125 for the controller and sensor.

The log would help, you can share via, google drive, onedrive, dropbox etc. But the first thing I see when I open your map is a big red error across the top that say "Analog 5V supply error". All sensors are powered by the 5V so that is probably your issue. Most likely there is an intermittent short on one of your 5V wires or one of your sensors is failing. Pressure sensors often short the 5V when they fail. I suggest set up a big digital gauge on a new layout page and add the "Analog supply" parameter to it. This should show near 5V all the time. Next time it plays up, connect your laptop, go to this screen, and by unplugging one sensor at a time and shaking/wiggling loom etc until the voltage returns to normal. Your fuel pump doesnt work because you would have had two outputs assigned to fuel pump - Inj 7 & Ign 7. You can only have one assigned. If you have two fuel pumps then set up one as a GP output and set its condition to the first pump so they both prime together.

Where is the warning? I have never noticed that. It is straight forward and not much can go wrong so jump in and give it a shot. Save a copy of your map before proceeding is about the only precaution I would take. No I have never seen anything like that with a common missing tooth trigger so it is probably more tune related. When you open the check base timing screen, the timing is locked to whatever value is in that top box. So the reason it probably stalls is the idle control system is probably adding max advance to keep it running before hand, then when you open that screen all the advance is removed. What you can do is open the set base timing screen with the engine not running, add say 10deg to your offset (make sure you hit enter so it turns blue), and set the ref to say 10deg or whatever mark you have on the front. Then start it and it should be happier with more normal advance. Your idle control is going a bit crazy due to too much gain. Set idle ignition proportional gain to 1.0, set derivative to 0.5, under idle actuator set integral gain to 0.5. Some other changes I would suggest to make tuning easier: Fuel main settings, set min effective PW to 0.5ms. Turn on async injection and set minimum async injection to 0.5. Set accel fuel as per the example below. Turn closed loop lambda off for now. Set charge temp approximation up as per the example table in the help file. Turn off the transient retard table.

Sounds like it is just not enough fuel, probably ran with the extra post start and warm up enrichment active, then as these two decayed away it doesnt have enough to keep it happy. Provided Injector and fuel pressure data is ok then probably just not big enough numbers in your fuel table. Typically 55-65% VE at idle. So, for now just bump up the whole fuel table to see if it helps. Dont worry too much about the VE numbers being realistic or not yet, just give it what it wants and work through getting things right once you have it running. Add 12deg to the current offset to advance timing 12deg (so -316). For the maximum inj duty cycle warning, that will probably go away if you update to the latest firmware. Early firmware tripped that warning if there was a trigger error during cranking.

You can change the voltage thresholds on the VEM's one. It is set to adaptive by default from memory and generally work very well. I suspect you have some other problem as I believe they need to see at least 0.2V even on the most sensitive setting. There should be info in the instructions or the chipset datasheet.

Correct, you can only do single channel knock control with a distributor with G4+.

Yes. But can you explain what you are trying to do, as it doesnt sound like you have a very good understanding of it. For such a safety critical function I would not advise taking it into your own hands.

Yes, you can send GPS speed to the ecu. GPS is often not very good for standing starts due to the lag but I have never tried with the AIM one.

The LS1 coils arent particularly sensitive to ground offset, they "switch on" somewhere around 1.7V. The coil signal ground connected to ecu sensor ground is the most correct so that is fine if your wiring is already done that way. Yes, the 4 "Gnd out" and the "Shield/Gnd" pins are all sensor grounds - you can connect all sensors to just one if you like or spread them around. Whatever is easiest. I would expect the factory wiring is already shielded. Most LS1's have the 24X trigger system which are powered from 12V from the factory. But they work fine on 8V and that is often convenient since you have the 8V pin there doing nothing otherwise. Engines after about 2006 that used the 58X trigger system are 5V. Otherwise everything else except your CAN lambda looks ok - that 12V supply needs to switch on/off with ignition.

The triggerscope looks like you might have clicked the capture button before cranking, you need to click capture while the engine is cranking. If you've got fuel and spark but no go then it suggests the timing is off. Try adding 360 to your offset, maybe you are sparking on exhaust stroke.

Can you also pull a plug out to confirm spark rather than relying on the timing light - some dont pick up spark reliably when cranking.

ok sure.