Adamw

So have you now confirmed that it is definitely not powered up by checking if the power LED is glowing? It could be anything from a blown fuse to a flat battery to a bad connection somewhere. If you have confirmed it is not powered up then please give more detail of what model car etc and I can give some further troubleshooting steps. Do you have a multimeter?

Sorry you are not making any sense. I’m not sure if you are translating from a different language or just not writing clearly. Can you please start again and try to explain the problem more clearly. If you are not a native English speaker then explain in your own language and I will try translating.

Ok, unfortunately this may have been a bit of a case of me not being able to see the forrest through the trees, but I think I finally spotted the (obvious) problem tonight. Please change the trigger mode (not VVT mode) to 2NZ. Yours has the 36-2 crank wheel, our 1NZ mode is expecting 36-4 teeth. Note you will need to set/check the base timing again after changing the trigger mode. The arming threshold tables may overwrite themsevles also so just check that they still have the same voltages that I suggested above after the change. Edit: You may need to set the VVT offset again too.

Yes, this is how it works already. Anytime it has been locked out, when the lock out conditions are no longer true then there is a re-activation timer that times out to allow Lambda to stabalise before the CLL is re-enabled. The length of the re-activation timer is hard-coded in the G4+, but from memory is 1-3 seconds depending on conditions. That would not help the OP's problem as he hadnt even met any lock-out conditions. That was just the quickest fix to get around the OP's problem which was due to the CLL pulling fuel out in the cruise area so when he pushed in the clutch and suddenly wanted to idle the CLL couldnt add the trim back in quick enough. You typically dont have this issue but with 1700cc injectors on petrol the PW is so short (he is down to 0.3ms before it nearly stalls) things get very sensitive. A more correct fix would be to tune the VE slightly lean in the cruise area so the CLL is adding fuel instead of removing - then when it comes to idle it is just slightly rich for a moment until CLL corrects it.

I have a tuned a LS3 with a G4X, but really only have basic start up maps for G4+. What ECU do you have?

Most likely. If the engine doesnt run then the easiest way to tell if the ecu is powered up is to pull the cover off the case, there is a blue or greeen LED inside that glows when powered up.

They need a high side drive, so, if you have a Storm, Xtreme, Fury or Thunder wire-in ecu then yes you can control directly (Aux 5/6/7 or 8 can do high side). Anything else will need a relay.

Your fuel table doesnt look correct at all for modelled mode, you should have VE numbers around 60-110% if everything is set up right. It suggests the engine is getting more fuel than you have told the ecu it can flow. So either injector data or fuel pressure is wrong. If you dont have accurate data then dont guess, you will be better to change back to traditional mode. IAT trim table table should also be turned off in modelled mode. Your accel enrichment settings look pretty crazy too, that is likely activating nearly all the time and messing up your fuel mapping. Turn knock control off until after the ignition timing is tuned, you need an ignition map that works well before you can set up knock control to be effective. For idle you will need to attach a tune, but as a start it doesnt look like you have tuned the base position table. You need to change to open loop and get open loop idle working well first, before switching over to closed loop. There is a set up guide for both open and closed loop in the help file.

What part number AEM do you have? There are at least 3 different AEM lambda calibrations - and none of them match the ZT3! Does the AEM have a gauge? Does the gauge read the same as the dyno?

If it is an oil pressure switch rather than pressure sensor then both ECU and dash will need custom CAN but it can be done. If it is a pressure sensor then it is already sent in the default set-up. If you attach your ecu and dash configs I can set it up. I dont see any way in the current dash firmware to use the built-in buttons on the side of the dash to control anything in the ecu. If you had hardwired switches wired to the inputs at the back of the dash then it could be done.

It is really up to you to tune it to acheive what you want. I dont know what type of racing you are doing or anything. Circuit racers often have a non-driven wheel speed based launch strategy. Jet skis and boats often use a timer strategy. Drag racers with big tires will often just have a fixed limit while the clutch or transbrake is engaged. It is better to use a virtual aux to enable it rather than setting it to "always on" as when it is always on your closed loop lambda and knock control will be disabled. A common virtual aux condition may be something like TP>50% and wheel speed <60KPH. For that ABS sensor you would need to remove some teeth as the frequency will be too high due to the high tooth count. About 20 teeth usually works well. You may be able to grind off every 2nd tooth or something similar.

Sorry for the slow reply. File attached. Note you will need to use the ECU master light client to set the multiplier/divider so that the speed reads correctly. derekcobraswitchsetup CAN wspeed.pclr

Yes. Basically in your car the "ON" switch and the "Cancel" switch are the same thing (backwards on the stalk). Some cars have seperate On and cancel switches - so you can cancel and resume without having to set the speed every time.

Usually best to have and arming switch or another option is to use a virtual aux. Yes, for speed base launch control this is why non-driven wheel speed is suggested.

As I have said numerous times if you have a significant spike in dwell then it is due to a trigger issue. If the dwell spike is only once in a while but your misfire is there all the time then the two probably arent related - in some cases the trigger issue can just be due to the misfire. The misfire is nothing to do with VVT and VVT cant cause the trigger error. The VVT errors can be caused by trigger error.

You cant use a GP speed as non driven wheel speed. Change your DI2 function to one of the wheel speeds - say LF wheel speed. The go to the chassis and Body folder, speed sources, and set non driven wheel speed source to LF wheel.

Can you give us a photo or video to show what you are doing.

I dont have any info for the injectors. Dwell time use this:

Sorry for the slow reply, I missed this post sitting down the bottom here... Unfortunately Im not sure if we can be much help - I will call @Simon to see if he has any more knowledge than me. But that does not look like one of our micro's, I assume it is an old Flyin Miata one. I believe they licenced the hardware and firmware off us but made some changes to the firmware themselves. It was based on ours but stuff like comms with their datalog software was unique to them and we have little info on it.

Pin 20 is high speed fan on Evo 4/5/6, and some Evo 7, it is not used on most 7's and not used on any 8's. You can use any of those pins - just make sure there is nothing connected to the other 2 that you arent using.

Yes pin 35 is connected to Ign 5. The current manual shows this Ign 4 is connected to Pin 20,32 & 34, As far as I know the factory ECU's also turn both condensor fans on together (even though they are called high/low and are wired to separate pins) - at least it does on my JDM evo 7. The main reasoning for us combining them is the factory fan relays are what we call "hot fed" - they are live all the time even when ign is off. If you use a normal aux output to drive this type of circuit then they will back feed when ign is off and flatten the battrery. So they need to be connected to ignition outputs which dont have flywheel diodes so dont back feed. There are only 4 spare ign outputs so you dont really want to waste 3 of them just to have two speed AC fan. They are combined just to give the user more flexibility to have spare outputs to do other stuff. The best option will be to connect the wire from pins 20,32 & 34 all to Ign 7. You can wire 1 of them them to Ign 8 and control independantly if you really wanted to (GP Output can be set up to do fan type functionality) but personally I would wire them together and keep the valuable ign output spare for something else.

Make sure the innovate black ground wire connects to the engine block, not batt neg as their manual will suggest. Then connect the 4 analog output wires to any spare 4 analog inputs on the ecu. Note down which colour you attach to which input. Attach your map here with that info and I will set the inputs up for you.

I have made some changes to your map based on our V11 test car, I assume most of the mechanical bits are probably similar. The base position table is a bit of a guess as ours idles at 800RPM whereas you are targeting 1100RPM. So load this map in, log a cold start with car idling until it is up to operating temp, that will give us enough info to fix your base position table. You can use the file compare feature to see what I have changed. 1168819401_Simon-Gagnon-SubaruSTIV10G4XXtremePlugin-V1-5-0fueling New idle.pclx

A log would be helpful - but there is quite a bit wrong in that tune, it really needs starting over. You have a lambda target overlay enabled making the lambda target 0.5 richer the whole time - i.e you are trying to target 0.559 Lambda at idle? I highly doubt it would run at that so I suspect that means the turner has ignored the lambda target? God knows how Closed loop lambda is meant to ever get it there... IAT trim should be turned off for modelled mode, the charge temp approximation takes care of air density changes due to temperature. With that enabled you will have twice as much air temp compensation happening. You have warm up enrichment adding fuel if coolant temp goes above 100C? Your stored statistics show you have reached 118°C coolant temp and 97°C IAT in the past so this and the IAT trim are going to have a big effect. Your VE numbers look all wrong - I assume this is possibly due to the lambda target overlay adding so much fuel but something is way off. If everything is set up right you would typically have numbers around 50-60% at idle and 100-120% at peak torque. You have 30% at idle and 70% at peak torque. So, start by turning off the Lambda target overlay, turn off IAT trim, zero out the warm-up enrichment, then start fresh on the fuel table and tune it to match the commanded target lambda.

The Honda dizzy has 3 wheels inside, a 24T that they call "CKP", a 4 tooth that they call "TDC", and a single tooth wheel they call "CYP". For a G1, assuming it has the standard reluctor sub-board in it, you will need the 4 tooth wheel connected to trig 1 and the single tooth to trig 2. The Link ECU also needs a falling edge signal where as the factory ecu used a rising edge so the sensor signals/grounds are swapped compared to how the factory ecu was wired. That looks like a OBD1 distributor, so based on a OBD1 ECU pinout your connections will be as follows: Wire originally on Honda pin B14 goes to G1 pin Trig 1. Wire originally on pin B12 goes to G1 pin Trig 2. Wire from pins B11 & B13 go to G1 pin Signal ground. @Budjie I have split your posts off from unrelated G4+ topic and moved to G1 forum.