Adamw

I suspicious the sensor is dead from the info you have given above. Unless there is a bad connection somewhere but the multiple errors suggest something more. I think the next logical step is try a new sensor.

This project was a bit before my time but from what I can see our car didnt have cruise. The only data we send in D2 is the snow light output. So you can possibly use that for your cruise light.

Thanks, I agree it looks like the pinout is correct. After seeing the photos this all kind of looks fairly well used, I initially assumed this was a new install that we were discussing. Has it been working correctly previously and it just started giving the error or is it a fresh install and never worked from the start?

Yeah the T1 Cam trigger is definitely a better option than the AEM EPM, although I think I remember there was a user on here a little while ago that received one DOA. Again I think probably no better than a stock distributor though. Both of these items were considered upgrades only because the old AEM honda plug-in ECUs that were common in the USA in the '90s & 2000's had crap VR conditioners that would rarely work with the factory distributor.

Ok that sounds very odd, I dont have any good feeling for what could cause all of these odd errors. As a start can you give us some photos of the wires going in to the lambda plug so I can confirm pinout etc (may have to peel the boot back etc if fitted).

On a Thunder, the ignition drives are the only ones that dont have flyback protection - so if you have a spare ignition drive these are the only ones that can be connected to devices that stay alive after the ECU is powered down.

For matching axes on common tables such as knock trim, fuel trim, ign trim then the export to clip board/import from clip board as dx4picco suggested is quick and easy. For most other tables it is not usually required or wanted to have matching axes - for instance most commonly fuel table would use MGP vs Ign using MAP and typically Ign needs far less breakpoints. If there is something common you do with table axis another option is to export a "master table" to file and keep a library folder on your laptop with a range of common table setups you use so you can just import them when needed. I do this for instance to quickly set up a ITB fuel table as well as things like temp sensor calibration tables. Pre-populating a 3D table with the prior 2D values would be difficult with the way the tables are used. My understanding is with most when set to 2D they use a table that is dedicated to that specific function. However when you set it to 3D then it assigns the first free GP table in the ECU (you will see it show up in your table allocation list). PC Link is just displaying what is in that table that it just pulled from the ecu - since that GP table could have been used for anything in the past the values that it contains are likely irrelevant. This is why the dialog pops up asking if you want to clear its values and set the axes to defaults. I guess there could be another dialog that pops up and asks if you want to copy one axis and some values from the previous 2D table but I suspect many would find that more annoying than helpful.

"Home position" or "zero" for the intake cams is fully retarded against the mechanical stops. Anytime the solenoid is not energized the cams will be at home (typically anything less than about 35% duty cycle). Typically at idle and at high RPM they will be fully home. Once you apply more than about 40% DC to the solenoid the cam will start to advance (More DC = advance faster). I dont know what the max advance is on the EJ's but most engines from that era would allow 45-60deg advance (crank deg) from home position.

Avoid the AEM EPM, I have seen many users with different ecu's have many problems with them. The stock reluctor in the distributor is a more accurate and reliable trigger. Your proposed ignition pins are correct.

You need to do a PC log as you havent logged any of the relevant parameters. But - in hold mode the ecu is not controlling idle at all. I suspect your oscillation is coming from over-run fuel cut turning on/off. Turn it off as a quick test. Edited my comments about the folder label - that was due to a beta PC Link version I was using.

The factory ecu as far as I know only used it for some of the purge control strategy, ours doesnt. It is basically there so if you want for instance to monitor diff temp or similar you have an easy connection.

The Storm blue has knock control built in. The knock link is a very old knock warning device - I have no idea how well they work since it is from long before my time, but if you want to use it it will need to be connected to its own dedicated knock sensor.

Yes, stock triggers will be fine.

Is now available on the Link website here: https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Mostly bug fixes, but more complete release notes here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link Updates October 2020.pdf

Unfortunately since the haltech dash CAN is all locked down you are stuck with what they have given you. Lambda is available on the dash but I dont think they give you the option to change units to AFR. If you are using the latest G4+ firmware which was released earlier this week then Ethanol is transmitted in the generic dash stream, but you will have to chase Haltech if you want them to update their dash firmware.

No the coils should spark using the ignition test regardless. But it could be something in common like a main ground broken - so the coils and CAS both have no ground reference. Or it could have just been a timing light issue - so investigate the CAS first before getting worried about the spark test.

AN Volt 2 is the original MAF input. The error means there is zero volt coming in on that pin. If it has a temp sensor connected it would have needed a pull-up resistor wired in. Maybe the Alcatek had a pull-up resistor fitted internally to that pin so it could only be used as a temp input and nothing else? Your option would be to either fit a pull-up resistor in to the wiring (probably near the header plug on the ecu is easiest), or get an expansion loom and connect your temp sensor to that instead (it has 2 dedicated temp sensor inputs).

Can you try updating to the latest firmware. You are on quite old firmware, I see in our system there were some changes to the triggers for the max duty cycle flags in FW V6.17.x. If that doesnt solve it then the next step will be to set up ecu logging so we can log some of the relevant parameters at high frequency - say 500Hz. With PC Logging at 40Hz it can often miss small spikes.

Just to back up what the scope is showing, you can confirm by watching rpm in the software while cranking. If it sits at zero then that would confirm no trigger.

With a G4+, no - the AC request must be from a DI or CAN bus. For the DI to work we want the voltage to go below 1.0V when ON. So my suggestion would be to connect two diodes inline with the AC request wire. A doide creates a voltage drop of about 0.7V - so with two diodes the voltage on the DI pin will be reduced by about 1.4V. Just any old common signal diode should work, like a 1N4148 or 1N914.

Do you have the DI1 pull-up set to off?

1) Open loop only in the Atom. If you want closed loop, the Monsoon is the minimum capable. 2) The ECU will not be a limitation to boost. You will of course need an engine, turbo, fuel system and sensors capable of high boost. My suggestion would be to consider the VR4 plug-in ECU instead of the Atom. It is only about NZD$280 more but wont require a custom loom and it will run all factory functions such as the stepper motor idle valve. The Atom cant run the stepper motor idle valve.

What are you stuck on? Do you have the CANPCB and CANF?

The 350Z cars have a immobilizer that communicates with the ECU via CAN bus. If this ecu is not in a 350Z, then go to the Antitheft menu and set the "Allow CAN anti-theft request" to no.

Ok, all looks fine to me. For the cruise switch; Black can be gnd or 12V. Yellow is Set DI. Brown/Blk is Cancel or On DI (Link needs On sw as a minimum, but doesnt need cancel). Blue is Repeat/Resume DI.