Adamw

Im still not sure what your question is? Are you trying to adapt a factory loom to the G1? Does the G1 even have a Honda compatible trigger sub-board fitted? Can you attach a photo of the car side of the distributor plug.

You originally said you wanted to disable the 2 speed mode and run the 2nd pump continuous. Changing the output function to GP output will do that. So if thats what you want to do you shouldnt be using the FP Speed function. For the stock Evo set-up with the two speed FP Speed function the control settings are found in >Auxiliary Outputs>Fuel pump control. The Evo 4-8 uses the General X-over mode and our base map default settings have the pump switching to high speed mode at 2000RPM or 5% injector duty cycle.

Im no expert on this side but my first guess would be either your graphics card is disabled or it doesnt support OpenGL. What graphics chipset does your laptop have?

The change in duty cycle is due to the 200rpm drop in engine speed. If you look at the inj PW you will see it actually increases - less duty cycle doesnt mean less fuel - you just have more off time between squirts so duty cycle is shorter. The drop in battery voltage is too sharp to be caused by the small dip in RPM. The dip in RPM and MAP is caused by whatever is causing the dip in battery voltage, not the other way around. I dont know if it is electrical load from say a rear demister or a short or something - or a bad main power connection, but whatever it is you need to solve whatever is causing the battery voltage issue.

Yes, you split the 5V and sensor ground out to as many sensors as you want. Yes any spare analog inputs will do either of those functions. Correct. If it has a separate power ground and signal ground wires the the signal ground should also connect to ECU sensor ground.

I dont see where the injector duty suddenly drops? What causes the drop in battery voltage and increase in map at the 0.2 and 11.6 second mark?

In theory Aux 7 would possibly work better as it has a flywheel diode attached so the valve action will more closely follow the commanded DC. But I have successfully used ign drives for boost control before too so it is likely minimal difference. If there is already a wire there that is never going to be used then it would be common practice to just snip that wire and splice your new wire on to it. Or you may be able to buy a new terminal, remove the old wire and insert the new one. The big terminals are Junior timer (easy to get), the small terminals are micro timer I (more difficult to get), and the small ones are a real challenge to extract from those connectors unless you have done it before. Go to >Auxiliary Outputs>Purge, double click where it says Ign 8 and change it to none. Correct.

There are no signs of trigger errors in that log above. Are you now talking about the Inlet LH error counter for the VVT? Can you do a few more triggerscopes so we can see if one captures the cause of the missing pulse errror. Do a couple at idle with cams at zero, and another couple at about 3000 with cams at 40 deg.

Yes they are fine in the engine bay.

Sorry I dont understand what you are asking? Do you have the old "integralink" G1 pluig-in ECU? And an AEM EPM?

Is the idle valve actually working? It doesnt really change position during the warm-up which suggests it may not be. In any case it looks like your main problem is you have the over-run fuel cut deactivation set very close to your normal idle speed so the RPM does the big just when ORFC turns off and on. Map attached below I have raised the fuel cut deactivation and updated the idle base position to something closer to what the CL is doing. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPu3nsbixZnUpPtzwZ?e=8BFMum

Yes, Ethanol, APS, and a whole lot of statuses from cruise/traction/antilag etc have been added on to the end of the existing generic dash stream. This means older devices (G4 etc) are still compatible with a dash that supports the new modified stream. The detail is in the help file. You should pass it on to them - I believe another user already has but I assume the more that chase them the better your chances.

There is quite a bit I dont like in your map attached earlier, for instance the E-throttle is set up with no integral so it is not following target. Can you attach your current tune and I will change a few things.

Yes, it should be just as Vaughan says. Your CAN 2 setup should look like below:

That dropbox link isnt right. You will have to click on the file in your drop-box and click share, then "create link" or something to that effect.

Set one switch as anti-theft and one as park/neutral. Both will prevent starter output.

Yes, it is still a G4+, so it can use the latest G4+ firmware to have all the current features.

Yes 200ohm 5V pull-up would be suitable. Setup cal table like below:

Its hard to imagine how a ignition drive would only work intermittently, generally they completely fail, but you are welcome to return it for inspection if you wish. The NZ headquarters can do a much more thorough test but you also could send it to one of regional offices where they could do a basic test on an engine simulator to confirm all ign drives are working. We have support offices in UK, USA, & AU. Note it doesnt necessarily need to be a Fury, any of our wire-in ECU's will plug-in to the same A connector and work. Certain things like the idle valve may not work but even an Atom will run a 2 rotor. Your fury map can also be loaded into any of our ECU's. Just mentioning this in case you know anyone with a Link ECU.

The E36 plug-in has on-board ignitors to drive the stock dumb coils. You can drive most modern smart coils using the 5V pull-up as mentioned in the manual above. However the R8 coils are an exception to this rule - they are a bit of an odd coil and require quite a high drive current from the ignitor, the 5V,470ohm pull up suggested in the manual wont work. Some guys have gotten them to work by using a 12V, 470ohm pull-up but I have my concerns with long term reliability by driving them this way. You can take a look at this thread where we finally got them to work with the 12V pull-up:

For the fuel pressure you should only need to change the "base fuel pressure" setting. For modelled mode you should start with the IAT table off as the charge temp will take care of most of it. Copy the example charge temp table out of the help file will be a good starting point for most common road car engines with a plenum and single throttle type manifold.

The 4 options listed in the realdash manual: http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php The OBDLink MX+ or the SPL one allows you to connect via bluetooth, the other two require USB. I have only tried the seeed studio one and it works fine.

If the CAN errors go away and stay away when you reset the bus while everything is powered up then I suspect the most likely reason is the Dash2pro is slow to boot-up so the ECU logs the error when the dash doesnt acknowledge the ECU quick enough.

You need to click capture when the engine is already turning.

So the difference between the successful test and non-successful was the fuel pump fuse and loom routing? Did you try to reproduce the successful test by removing fuel pump fuse and moving loom again? When running the trigger scope are you only clicking capture once the engine is rotating? Can you attach the tune so I can see arming thresholds etc.