Adamw

No you dont need to assign anything. For instance the Analog input you have set to "ECT" in the ecu will be sent out as PID05 when the gauge requests PID05.

No I wouldnt bother, you can get a good tune with traditional with less work. The injector short pulse width adder looks very odd, with numbers quite a bit larger than I would typically see. I would probably zero that out unless it was known good info (this will mess with the fuel tune though). The rest of the tune doesnt look bad and shouldnt need much work to get it dialed in, as you say the ignition table 1 looks very lethargic but I dont know these engines well. You need to check that with a timing light.

Hmm, I dont really see much wrong there. Do you have any CAN devices plugged in? Are connection settings in PC Link set to: "Manual, Com 3, Auto max 625"?

Master around 17-20ms will be in the ballpark. The 1UZ fuel map will do as a starting point.

The OEM mode is nothing to do with OBD2 - this setting is only for interfacing with other modules in the car. Changing the OEM mode makes no difference to how the OBD2 works. The OBD2 protocol that the Link ECU complies with is ISO15765-4 (the 15764-4 is a typo in the software). The PID's that the Link supports are listed below:

Attach your tune and I can set it up. I will need to know which CAN port you are using and which wheel is connected to which input.

The OBD2 output is seperate from the OEM CAN mode. The best option would be to set mode to user defined and bit rate o 500 or 250K (try both). Do you have a list of the PID's the gauge supports?

Can you give us a screen shot of the com ports section of device manager.

Hmmm, well if its running there must be a spark. If your timing light can not detect the spark then you will have to try another.

@Eric S Engineering believe they have found the problem and resolved it. I have PM'd you a beta firmware to test.

If you attach your dash and ECU config I will set up some basics which will give you something to work from.

You throttle seems to follow the commanded target ok.

What is the ignition system and how is the timing light connected?

That will be fine on an aux or inj drive. Aux is preferable as it has more protection built-in. They are rated at 2.2A continuous and trip somewhere around 3A depending on temp.

Go to your E-throttle target table and adjust the relationship between pedal and throttle to suit however you like it. At the moment it is set up to give easy movement below 3000RPM and more aggressive feel at higher RPM. Dont adjust the top row, but do whatever you like with the rest of it.

Early models had a 6 tooth crank and 7 tooth cam. Later engines had a 36-2-2-2 crank and there were various options on the cam. But the common cam option is what we call "V7-9" which has 2 teeth on one of the front cam sprockets.

You can log CAN bus messages but you will first need to reverse engineer all of those messages to understand where each one comes from, what it contains, and how it is converted back into a useful variable. This is normally done with a standalone CAN sniffer and various reverse engineering software tools. Whether the G4X is capable of duplicating those messages to make the dash work etc will depend on how complex the factory have decided to make the messages. For instance many modern cars will have some sort of calculated checksum that requires mathematics added on the the end of the CAN message based on its content, there are sometime odd "heart beat" type counters that arent easy to generate with the generic CAN tools that the ECU has. You wont know if this is possible until you have done some sniffing and reverse engineering.

Only CAN2 port has 12V on it so you must have the USB cable plugged into the CAN2 port. The USB port is quite clear, it is on the underside of the top board and there is a big arrow pointing at it.

The G4X uses a FTDI based virtual com port Vs the G4+ used a Silabs CP220X. You may have to research what is required to get the FTDI driver to install on the mac hardware.

Attach your map, although a PS switch would give more options, there may be an opportunity to improve the situation without a PS switch. As Ducie mentions idle ign should be able to take care of a lot of this if it is set up right.

Can you do us a short video or something, I cant really undersatnd what you are doing. None of these error messages sound familiar.

The later crank wheel would be a small improvement over the 6 tooth. You will need the matching late mode cams wheels too though.

Change the output that assigned to FP speed function to "GP Output", then I would suggest set the conditions like below so that is is enabled whenever the main fuel pump output is enabled.

Aux 3 is a low side drive only, that is all you need.

Try channel 6 ID as 3472891907, this is with the x replaced with a "3". Otherwise you are going to have to contact them for a more firm answer or example of an output message.