Adamw

Try the attached, hopefully will be a step in the right direction. Do us another log of some driving. Once we have idle behaving we can try have a look at the throttle setting. DotsonTune idle changes 1.pclr

I assume you mean 36-2? 30-2 isnt common. But yes you are pretty much correct, the main advantage with a missing tooth wheel is the location of the cam pulse is less critical. You also get faster start up as the ecu can sync as soon as it see's the missing tooth (max 1 crank rev). With the 12 evenly spaced teeth then the ecu cant sync until it sees the cam tooth (potentially up to 2 crank revs). The higher tooth count will also give you slightly less timing drift during rapid crank acceleration - although the difference between 12T and 36T is barely noticeable. Note, you can just remove a tooth of the 12T wheel to make it 12-1 also.

Try the attached to see if EGTs are showing on the dash. If they are, then it would also pay to test they are mapped correctly, unplug #1EGT sensor and check #1 temp on dash changes, then do the same check with #6. This is because they make both a 3 channel and 4 channel EGT box which use the same CAN ID and format so im not 100% sure how the dash knows which is which. For your speed it should work, the R32 has an electronic signal from the (cable driven) dash back to the ecu. Although the reed switch is prone to dying in them. In PC Link does your LF wheel speed show anything when moving? michael gtr tune1-1-LESStiming microtech CAN.pclr

That is not a trigger scope attached. Can you please do a scope and attach. In your log you have many trigger errors so that is the first thing to fix. The 2nd problem is your MAP sensor is reading 4kpa so you are getting no fuel. Your BAP is 101.3 so your MAP should read the same with the engine off. You also only have 1ms dwell, not many inductive coils will work with that little, especially at cranking speed.

The normal microtech CAN stream doesnt have EGT's in it, their dash normally gets the EGT channels direct from the microtech EGT box rather than from the ECU. I assume you arent using the microtech EGT device? If so I think I have the info somewhere so should be able to duplicate it with the Link. Can you attach your tune, I will take a look.

SPWA is not really needed for injectors smaller than about 1200cc on a typical sized road car engine in my experience. With 560cc on a 2L engine you are unlikely to ever command a PW that is far outside its linear range.

Just share the signal will be ok.

Can you give some info. How did this happen? Was it during a firmware update or just out of the blue?

99% of the ones with the LSU style plug use that pinout that you have. However I have found the odd one that has the 5V and gnd swapped, so that would be worth a try. Generally doesnt hurt them connecting backwards, they just read wrong or not at all. Otherwise I think I would try another one, it is pretty unlikely its outputs are meant to be like that.

Maybe the assist effort control is in the rack? Or maybe there is no effort control and it just runs constant effort at all speeds. If you think of a car that has an old belt driven pump, when you rev the engine (increase pump speed/flow), the steering doesnt suddenly get lighter. There is a releif valve so pressure stays constant even at near minimum speed. Later cars usually have some sort of assist control to give more feel at higher speeds, which could be done either at the pump end or the rack end.

Did you try adjusting the master fuel to see if it run smoother in any direction (most likely smaller)?

Please attach a triggerscope of it cranking and your tune. How to do the scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=3XclIA

Can you update to the latest firmware and try to reproduce. Even if you set your target lower for testing it should be a valid test. I found a similar bug noted in our system where if you passed through a 0 target in your boost target table when there was a negative trim applied it would add trim to the target after that point. During that gear change you do move through a zero target cell so I think this is related to the same bug that has already been fixed.

Ok, try these. When you import the dash config into RS3, it will ask something like "there are custom sensors in this configuration, do you want import them into your sensor database", select yes. In the dash config I have set up the launch knob on ADC channel 1. You will need to calibrate the "custom sensor" with your real switch position voltages. For this example I have done 6 positions with a voltage range of 0.5-3.5V. In the ecu config I have set up the CAN receive and set up an example launch control table with the 6 knob positions spanning 3000-5500RPM. Launch is set to always on so you will need to change this. Scirocco_MK3-BvS CAN Launch knob.pclr MXS B-Shine Scirocco MK3 Launch.zconfig

It just needs an ignition switched +12V. A11 or A24 would do, or there is probably already a 12V wire near the distributor for the original coil.

As far as my understanding goes, to vary the PS assist you need to vary the pressure, changing the motor speed will not vary pressure, only flow rate. They probably vary the motor speed when high flow rate is not needed to save power, but I expect there must also be some other type of pressure control signal to vary the assist level based on speed etc.

It looks like the time stamps have been messed up somehow. Im not sure what would have caused it or if it will be recoverable, but I will ask the engineers on Monday.

I suspect you may have the E-throttle pin-out wrong, I have never seen a GM throttle that is not a linear relationship between sub and main.

Can you also share the log with Google drive, onedrive, dropbox or similar.

Does it have a battery? Or is at an AC system?

The idle set-up and idle ign looks like a mess. Also your E-throttle has been left in set-up mode which is dangerous, all safety features are disabled in set-up mode. Personally I would be going back to the tuner and asking them to fix it as this is a very half ass job. The E-throttle target is wrong, the idle base position table is wrong, and the idle ignition and main ignition is so badly matched your timing is bouncing between 35 and 4 degrees when slowing down. The E-throttle safety especially pisses me off that anyone would let a job go out like that. If you have no joy with the tuner, then I can probably fix the idle. I will need a PC log of a cold start, and keep it logging until up to normal operating temp, then a couple of minutes of normal driving.

Yes the info above is for the VW VR6

There appears to be something wrong with your intake cam wheel. It should have 4 teeth on it with about 180 deg angle between each tooth. But your cam angle test is only reporting 3 angles, 56,420,600. So pull the cover of your intake cam sensor and have a look, it seems maybe it is modified or broken? If the wheel looks ok, then maybe the sensor is failing, you could try swapping with exhaust sensor as a test. It should look like below:

This would be the easiest option. A custom cal table will work - but not needed in this case.