Adamw

No the old V series does not support a CAN Lambda. Yes, you can use the GP limiters for oil or fuel pressure safeties. There is an example in the help file how to set up an oil pressure based safety. Have a look at the bottom of this help file page: Navigation: VX ECU Tuning Functions > Limits >GP RPM Limit

I think you have found a bug in the Exhaust cam position. I get a similar error when testing with a simulator. I suspect it has always been like that and either no one has used it or no one has noticed. Not a very popular engine for whatever reason... So I dont have an immediate fix for you sorry. I will pass it on to engineering to take a look, but it may take some time to fix as they are only devoting limited time to G4+ at present.

Have you followed the first time start-up instructions in the manual and adjusted master fuel etc?

Sorry I dont undersatnd if you have a question? If you need to move the spark in relation to trigger wheel you adjust the trigger offset. Are you saying it stops sparking or doesnt have enough fuel? Do you still have RPM showing when cranking? Does the timing light still flash? Have you increased master fuel or tried starter fluid to confirm if it is a fuel problem?

Normally for TP calibration you follow the instructions on screen and zero the TPS at its normal resting idle position - not fully sealed closed with the throttle stop screw wound out... This is because some of the idle control functionality works off TP lockouts that need to be close to zero. How much throttle jack is required for antilag depends on how much AL effect you are trying to achieve, how much heat your set-up can handle, and how much push-on the driver is comfortable with in corners. But from the few old group N cars I worked on 25-35% is what I remember being common. Idle valve doesnt really matter. Idle speed control wont enable due to the TP being above the normal idle lockout, so the idle valve will just sit in whatever position is commanded in the base position table.

0.03V isnt going to change much. But anyway, your 0.03V offset would be equivalent to 0.006 Lambda, so your new offset calibration would be 0V = 0.494 Lambda. 5V = 1.517 Lambda.

Yeah, I dont think there is a direct way to do that via conventional outputs/hard wiring. Can do it via CAN to a dash or whatever. The only work around would be to set up a GP output that activates with the same conditions you have set for the logging.

It is not clear what you want to do, as you mentioned both a Fury and a MXP dash. Do you want the EGT's in the ecu or dash? Or both? The instructions for setting up the ECU master EGT are in the help file and the CAN stream files are in PC Link CAN folder.

I dont remember them being difficult to set up. In fact Im sure last time I bought one they asked what ecu it was for when I ordered it and they set it up before shipping. At the ecu end you just set it to Dash2pro. https://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/ECUType/LinkG4AndLINKG4XCAN

Good question, I am not sure. I suspect it maybe registry or something weird. I do know there is a task planned to improve that functionality to allow saving and importing those templates, but that doesnt help you right now. Tomorrow I will ask the engineers if there is a file that can be copied between PC's as a workaround, but I suspect if it were easy I would already know the trick by now...

Sorry no. It has only recently been requested and added in G4X. It is a bit of an odd one so I dont see anything else that matches in G4+. I have never seen the wheel but from the scope it looks like a 36-2 with two teeth filled in opposite the missing teeth. So you could possibly grind two extra teeth in to make it a standard 36-2 wheel?

You would still need a race tech serial ecu interface to do that (same cost), so better with the CAN one as it is more flexible.

Hard to give any concrete advice since you didnt attach the tune so we can see your settings, but from the log it looks like the main problem is your waste gate DC is pushing you way above your target so the closed loop is pulling ~7% duty cycle out. Your target is 132Kpa and your MAP is 227kpa (target is absolute pressure also). You are correct that a boost table ratio of 0% will mean all control is coming from table 1 and a ratio of 100% means all control is coming from table 2. Note there is a set up guide in the help file. G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Boost Control > Closed Loop Boost Control > Closed Loop Boost Setup Guide. You should really have your PID at zero while you are building your wastegate DC table.

Yes it should work, supported ODB2 PID's below Note OBD2 is very slow though, you may only get 5Hz or so depending how many PID's it requests.

You should be using the M52 trigger mode and M52 vvt mode. With the multitooth/missing and user defined VVT mode you are using you are only getting one position update from the camshaft every 720 degs (ie one tooth). With the M52 mode it uses both the rising and falling edges of the cam wheels so it gets two updates.

With no cam sync, you will have to set ignition mode to wasted spark and fuel mode to multipoint group. MSD's typically wont work with 1ms dwell at low rpm, they were originally designed to be triggered by points which gives long dwell at low RPM. Set it to 2ms flat for now, you may find it works better with dwell set to duty cycle mode later, but I know they usually work ok with a flat 2ms so that will be the best starting point. Still need to see a triggerscope... Not sure what you are asking here? Why did you say it is 12-1 earlier, and now 1 tooth per TDC? How does it have 1 tooth per TDC without a cam sensor?

The stall is because you have no speed sensor set up. Typically you use the speed sensor to disable idle control when the car is moving. In your case the speed is zero all the time so when you are coasting the ecu is closing the throttle trying to bring the idle down to target - but of course the wheels are driving the RPM so closing the throttle has no effect. Then you push in the clutch the engine is not being driven by the wheels anymore and the throttle is now too closed so it stalls. As far as I know an IS300 should have a vehicle speed sensor connected to the ecu so it would be worth investigating why yours doesnt have one set up and fix it. Otherwise you will have to adjust your driving style by pushing in the clutch earlier when coasting to a stop. For your logs you will have to share it using google drive, onedrive, drop box etc.

The easiest way to access the CAN bus on a plug-in is with a CANPCB cable and the mating CANF plug. The dash2 (not dash2pro) doesnt have CAN, so you will also need to buy a race technology CAN ecu interface.

Here: For the B16 trigger settings, here is what the help file suggests:

It is not locked but you have to know what you are doing and write the whole CAN config from scratch like I did in the file above. What do you need to modify now?

Hang on, what are you doing? The THW pin is the multiplex coms. You will fry the controller sending 12V in there. Does the coolant temp gauge on your dash work? If it does then the multiplex is working and the AC unit should need nothing else. Are you using the JZX plugin?

Cant really help with that sorry. You have wired a plug-in ECU into an application that it was never designed for and piggy backed to make it more complicated, so you are on your own. We have no information on that car, or how it is wired, there is no way we can help or should be expected to help. Obviously a wiring issue that you will have to work through logically.

Try these. I have also added a few other channels that are included in the latest ecu firmware, Ethanol content, traction, cruise, antilag, launch status etc. You will need to update to the latest ecu firmware for these to work but dont bother unless you need/want them. I have added sport mode, so that should work. I have set it up as an alarm message on the dash, you can set that up how you like. R53112020joacun CAN DI to dash.pclr Rensjes12.zconfig

Yes, we call it trigger 2. Set it to reluctor in the software and use the built-in scope later when running to confirm arming thresholds etc are set suitable. Pin 45 is a sensor ground. Yes, all our plug-in's use the same "Top board", they all have all of the hardware present including E-throttle controller etc (The only exception is we dont fit the high side drive chip for Aux 5-8 on most it is rare for an OEM to use HS outputs). What IO is available to the end user is typically limited to what the factory applications chose to assign to each pin. We try to discourage any modification to make more IO available as it could become a support nightmare. In many cases though for instance if you wanted E-throttle control in future Link will bring out the correct IO with flying leads for relatively low cost or give you the info to do it if you're not worried about the lifetime warranty. You've probably got enough IO there already for TC, since there is one DI used as a speed input already and 2 DI's for auto trans, then another couple on the expansion. Extra analog and digital inputs can be added via CAN also.

Avoid the honeywell GT101DC with missing tooth wheels, but the equivalent cherry/ZF/littelfuse ones are fine.