Adamw

A couple of things that I suspect may be some of the problem: Fuel pressure sensor calibration. That "7 Bar" calibration is for an old MAP sensor we used to sell, I suspect it isnt right for your typical fluid pressure sensors. What specific sensor do you have? The injector flow rate for the multifuel - I have no data for these specific injectors, but most injectors we have tested the flow rate is quite a bit less when flowed with ethanol vs Petrol. The ID1000's for instance flow about 950cc on petrol vs only 810cc on ethanol.

Yes but it is an ECU log with only a few channels recorded. Thats why I said to do a PC log - then absolutely everything is recorded.

They will be assigned automatically when you load the map into an ecu. This is done so the maps are compatible with any Link ecu - so for instance you can load a Thunder map into a Atom which only has 4 injector drives. If it bothers you and you dont have an ecu to load it in you can attach it here and I will load it into a Thunder for you.

The tuning process isnt much different than it was in G4+, I just found those error accumulators good for looking at logs after the first drive or racing event. For the PID tuning you are in set up mode anyhow so the error accumulators were never working in set up mode. Once you have the PID controlling throttle position well in the log then a good way to test is to drop the fault delay to 0.5s, if you dont get any errors with heavy foot work then change it back to the default 1s and you are good to go.

No, all the main relay control stuff is done by separate electronics on the adapter board so it must be as per the factory pinout. 12V Ign switch signal comes in to on D14 or D15 and the main relay trigger ground comes out of D16 or D17.

Yeah, they are not available at the moment due to the different way the safety system works in G4X, it was assumed by the firmware guys that they werent needed/used but it was one of the first things I complained about after tuning my first G4X. So it is on the list to add some similar functionality back in or develop some new diagnostic tool so you can more easily see how close you are to breaking the camels back. It is still a little while off, looks to be scheduled for 6.19 firmware.

Can you attach the tune as well. And a PC log would be preferable as it would have all parameters. Is the VE more realistic on petrol or is it high on both petrol and E85?

Can you go to device manager, right click on the ECU com port, select properties, then go to the detail tab, select the property "hardware ID" and give us a photo of that screen. It should look something like below.

Note I havent written up instructions for this yet as there is a new CAN to bluetooth device that I want to test and I also want to look at setting up bi-directional comms so you can turn stuff off/on by pressing a button on the dash. No with the USB to CAN adapter you will still need a tablet that is capable of both data and charging at the same time. With the Bluetooth option it solves that problem in theory, but as yet I dont have one to test.

It looks like the throttle position sensor hasnt been calibrated. Throttle stop may first need to be closed a little to bring idle down a bit so do that first. I would probably bump the master fuel up to 6 also since it goes very lean above 2000RPM - it will then be a bit on the rich side at idle but it will likely run happier. Your fuel pressure cal looks wrong, input value B would usually be 4.5V for a MLH. Your flex fuel sensor isnt working.

I have seen this technique work well, but always the wastegate exit has been a really nice merge at a tangent to the flow similar to the pic below from Corky Bell's book. Yours is such a sharp change in direction it is probably not just reducing wastegate flow but also effecting turbine efficiency as well. I have seen similar control issues when the wastegate is attached to the collector at a bad angle.

The "0x" in front of the 3E8 means that value is in Hexidecimal notation. The Link software uses decimal. You can use windows calculator or there are many online tools for converting Hexidecimal to decimal. But to save you the effort - 0x3E8 is 1000 in decimal. So put 1000 as your ID in the link software. You should also change transmit rate to 20Hz. And check the bit rate is set the same at both ends.

Yes, the 300Z ecu has the TPS out circuit onboard for the Attesa. You will find another post on the forum somewhere where I have shown all the wiring that needs to be changed for the 300Z ecu fitted in a skyline.

That is fine. B22 is sensor ground, so you will have 1 crank sensor and 3 cam sensors connected to that. And make sure you ground all the shields as well - most likely to B31.

Yes, it looks like your engine must be the EJ20 which has 3 cam sensors rather than EJ25 which only has 2 cam sensors at the back. The front cam position sensor connects to trigger 2. Connect to pin B22 & B8. The other 2 AVCS cam sensors at the back of the head need to connect to DI's. Suggest DI2 and DI3. You could use Ign6 (B33), Aux7 (A11) or Aux8 (A8).

Update firmware, that was fixed a while ago.

What ecu? Some have high side drives, some don’t.

Sounds like it. You should not have 5V on both sides of the temp sensor. One side should be connected to sensor ground, the other side to the AN temp input.

What ecu? Is it powered up (blue light on)?

Sorry, yes, I was thinking of our OBD1 honda ecu.

You dont need 5V. Just the AN Temp 4 and Ground straight to the two pins on the sensor.

You posted the same yesterday and I already replied there:

I already answered your same question on the facebook page, so I will copy paste here: Go across one tab to the Analog tab on the runtime values screen, check the voltage on AN Volt 3, it should be about 1.17V at atmosphere with a 4Bar sensor. If you have something different than that then you have a wiring problem.

Probably the FuryX (one built in wide band controller) plus an extra CAN Lambda would be the most economical option that Link offer. Otherwise you could go to an XtremeX with a decent 3rd party dual channel CAN lambda such as Motec LTCD (or 2 x Link CAN Lambdas). Another option would be to put a small "balance pipe" between the two tail pipes with a single wideband fitted in there.