Adamw

All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.

Once connected, can you click >help>ecu information and tell us what firmware it says it currently has. If its earlier than about 4.4 then it is a bit of a job to update. It might just be easier to give you an older software to check your error code in that case.

Ok, this one should be closer to the ballpark. TOMSNissanR32-R34GTR Single throttle.pclr

You are right, this is a bit of a tricky one, I dont see any obvious reason for the oscillation. Ignition timing is quite stable and idle valve position is quite stable, so you would expect torque output (RPM) to be quite stable. The factor im most suspicious of is you have very large injectors, very short pulse width, so possibly the injectors are working outside of their linear region. Even though in the later part of the log the Lambda appears to be quite stable, with some set-ups (large exhaust etc) since gas is moving slowly through the exhaust system at idle, the long delay in lambda response can hide unstable lambda problems. So can you try setting the minimum effective PW to something like 0.75ms and see if that helps - it will cause it to idle rich, but it will help eliminate if injector PW is the problem or not. I also suggest you make the green area marked below in your Lambda target table all 0.95 so PW is as stable as possible at idle. If the min PW doesnt help, then the next thing I would look at is get a fuel pressure sensor to log fuel pressure. How is the map sensor connected - is it screwed directly into the manifold or is there a hose?

If you are getting a back fire then you should definately check timing is in the ballpark with a timing light. You can also get backfires if too lean, so if timing looks ok then you may just need to crank up the master fuel.

Are you maybe using an extension cable on the USB? Store issues usually mean you have a comms problem.

No there should be no connection between the speed sensor and the speedo anymore. One of the speed sensor wires should be connected to ground, the other to the ECU DI. The speedo wire should be connected to the ECU aux only (with the resistor & cap) as per my drawing above.

The old "DisplayLink" stream was always the same as "generic dash", so rather than have the same stream in there twice with two different names, we just kept generic dash. If you have the old displaylink and it was connected via CAN originally then it will still work - just choose the generic dash stream at the ecu end.

No those spikes are just a ground offset from the starter motor kick back or something. You have no trigger 2 signal, either the CAS is faulty or the wiring between the CAS and ECU is broken. CAS pinout below. You can check the CAS is ok by pulling it out and backprobing the trigger 2 pin with a paperclip or similar then watch the voltage while turning it by hand. It should jump between 0 & 5V a couple of times per rev. If that looks ok then you can do the same test at the ECU pin 10 to check the signal makes it to the ecu.

There's some very weird stuff going on with ignition timing. I think the idle problem is due to the 5D ign table that pulls 37degs advance out. Im not sure what the purpose of that table is. It is controlled by something that switches on and off on DI2 and something that reads from 0-100 on AN Volt 2, do you know what either of these inputs are wired to? AN Volt 2 follows a similar curve to TP or MAP but it is not exactly the same as either. Looking at this 5D table more, I think this might be a fix for his "drilled hole", maybe it was too big so he had to pull 20-50deg timing out to get it to idle? Or was it for pops and bangs or something? Idle ignition control looks like it has been set up at some stage but then disabled - all the lockouts are set to zero. The motorway surging Im not sure on, it doesnt have as much advance as I would normally want to see in cruise conditions which is probably some of it, but the wideband is not working either so it could potentially be fuel related too. It really needs to go to a competent tuner so they can tidy up some of this stuff.

The common trap is if you manually type in a number you have to hit enter after. The number will turn blue if you’ve done it right.

Hmm, ok I dont see much wrong in the triggerscope, it didnt capture a full 2 revolutions but what is there looks fine. One possible cause of the ign cut is the GP RPM limit 1, it has been turned on and has an RPM limit of zero set. It shouldnt activate until 20s after cranking though but I sugest you turn it off for now. If it is still cutting with that limiter turned off, can you do us a short PC log of it cranking.

Ok, do us a triggerscope while cranking, and attach a copy of your tune too. How to triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=EWpSPk

Those runtimes will always show off when the outputs are used for ign and inj. Only when they are used as on/off type aux outputs (such as a fuel pump) then those runtime display the status. So I would expect you already should have fuel and ign working. Quickest check to confirm is open the runtimes screem (F12), go to triggers/limits tab, when cranking make sure there is valid RPM at the top left and no fuel or ign cut in the bottom middle. The move to the fuel tabe and check there is inj Effective PW showing (top right).

Please attach your current tune and I will swap the related fuel equation settings.

I dont really see any signs of a trigger problem in your log. I cant see a reason for your RPM oscillation in the log picture you show. One thing that seems a little odd is the injector pulsewitdh only changes about 10%, but lambda sways 20%, so maybe there is a fuel pressure issue or something external. For the slow start up I feel maybe your trigger arming threshold could be a little high. I suggest you change both trigger 1 and trigger 2 arming threshold to look like this: Edit, added later: Sorry, I forgot these engines are VVT. Have a look at your intake cam is bouncing around. The ECU is commanding 0° cam advance but the cam is moving between 20-50° by itself. Maybe there is something mechanical broken on the intake cam VVT.

You will really need to confirm yourself want goes where. From what I can see pin 50&60 are probably the sensor grounds, and I would typically want all the important sensors grounded to ECU sensor ground. Im assuming all of the others are power grounds so would idealy go to the same point on the block - the wiring diagram I have is more of a schematic and just shows all grounds going to a single point (including sensor grounds) so Im not sure how they are actually routed in the car.

Ok, try this one should be closer, your last file was set up for 800cc injectors. Im not sure about the relay control problem. Does DI3 runtime show green/active when the ignition switch is on and says off when the ignition switch is off? linkecu4.5.pclr

What size injectors do you have? Can you attach your latest tune file.

Unfortunately those do ground through the body as well as the ground pin. The factory cars the CAS "ground" pin connected to ecu sensor ground so effectively sensor ground is coupled to the engine block. Im not sure if it is better to connect sensor ground to the ground pin or not but it generally works ok in the factory cars so I probably would connect sensor ground as well. Just make sure the ECU main grounds are both connected to the engine block as well so you effectively have 1 star point.

Yes from the triggerscope and the screenshots above it does look like the reported cam position of -30 is correct. With cam at zero your triggerscope would look more like the one I drew on above. So it sounds like when its wired correctly the ecu seems to be able to control it correctly. So I guess you need to find out why the engine doesnt like to run with the cam at zero like would normally be expected. I dont know the internals of these engines well enough to know if there are any tricks that could result in the cam timing being wrong but the cam position sensor still showing correct - like a drive pin sheared or the triggerwheel lose or something. You might be able to look at google images for a quick eyeball compare of the physical position or your lobes at TDC compared to others.

No the recommended CAN USB dongle hasnt arrived yet. It will likely be awhile as there seem to be big delays on most of the cheap Chinese shipping methods reaching NZ for the last few months.

No you will loose all changes to the fuel map if you didnot store before shutting down. However, provided you kept PC Link open, then when you re-connect it should pop up with a message something like "You are connecting to an ECU an ecu but the settings are different. Do you wish to copy the settings to the ecu", if you choose yes then it will update the fuel map back to how it was before you shut off. As for the green cell markers I think you will lose them.

The small amount of info we have for this engine shows 60-2 on the crank and 2 short, 2 long teeth on the cam. Trigger settings below should work. If you get erractic RPM when cranking then do us a triggerscope and I will confirm from there. Offset will likely be around either 275 or -85 if it follows BMW's normal conventions. The coils are the same as the M50 so you can get the dwell times from the Link M50 base map. Note these coils dont have ignitors built-in so will need a separate ignitor.

So when you took that triggerscope above was the exhaust solenoid wired correctly or not? Was it at idle or not? If it was wired correctly and was idling below the VVT lockout then the advance/bleed solenoid will be open and the retard/pressure solenoid will be closed so it should be fully advanced. Something is wired wrong or mechanically wrong if the cam goes full retard when the ecu is commanding the advance/bleed solenoid open. These engines normally idle fine with exhaust cam at zero. The last one I worked on liked the exhaust cam to be at zero until about 30% throttle.