Adamw

What about the page 14 1a option, that looks pretty similar style to above to me:

Hmm, thats not going to work with a Fury. It looks like the coil of the ECCS relay and the Ign coil relay in an R32GTR are live all the time. The Fury has P&H injector drives so when the ignition switches off, the power will back feed through the injector drive and keep the ecu powered up or partially powered up. Usually you need an ignition drive to control a relay that is live all the time as they cant back feed. I suspect maybe your V88 used an ign drive instead? Unfortunately you have no spare ign drives... I think to solve this you are going to have to add another relay in somewhere to control "pin 16" to the ECCS relay rather than the ecu control it.

I see you are on old firmware and some of the functions we will need are missing. Can you please update your firmware then attach a copy of your updated map here. As for the gear cut settings, one problem is you have upshift input set to DI3, I cant understand all of the language on your labels but I thing this should be DI5? Is it a dog box or synchro box?

It works the same as time plots etc, the length of time that is displayed when live is controlled by "display time range" setting in PC Logging set up. If set to auto it will show the full length.

You only need ECU hold power for stepper motor idle valves. Why was it wired for hold power? Are you trying to control the factory ECCS relay etc?

German translation at a guess, suspect it means "sealant". Forgot to mention, the temp part uses the std Bosch NTC calibration, the pressure side uses the TI 150psi calibration.

There's only 4 pins, just uses a 5 pin plug. Pinout below, be careful some of the aftermarket mating plugs have the pins numbered wrong.

The ability to charge and transfer data at the same time is highly dependent on the tablet, some can do it some cant, most that can do it need some sort of specific adapter. The reason is when an OTG cable is plugged in to the USB port it is negotiated to be a "Host". A host USB port is meant to be supplying power to the USB device (i.e something like a USB mouse or keyboard or webcam needs power from the USB port). In client or charging mode many of them use the data pins to identify the type of charger connected so they cannot be used for data.

I think I would need to see the triggerscope to know if the cam is advanced or retarded. 50% DC means both solenoids closed, hold cam position. Greater than 50% means advance (no matter which cam). Less than 50% means retard (no matter which cam). So if "exh/LH solenoid" says 57.5%, then it is trying to advance the exhaust cam, the pressure bleed solenoid (aux 4) should be open.

There are two further thoughts I will leave. I know of at least one car locally that has caught fire due to the end blowing out of one of those sensors, luckily it was saved with minimal damage due to it happening on the dyno with plenty of extinguishers around, but it may not have been be so lucky if it happened on the road. So perhaps you arent considering the cost of a failed sensor - it may just leave you stranded due to it failing and giving say a false oil pressure limit. Sometimes when they fail they short the 5V rail so all sensors no longer work. Or it could be as serious as loosing the car or engine. The second factor is the tolerance of vibration. I only really have experience with relatively harsh race engines so road car engines may be more forgiving, but most of the cheap sensors dont last very long if fitted direct to the engine - and I mean even the cheaper name brand ones such as honeywell px3. Theses all need to be mounted remotely which if you add the cost of decent hose and fittings each end you are probably near the cost of a good sensor that will tolerate direct fitting. The only sensors I have have had little failures from when direct mounted: Honeywell PX2. Link/Variohm/Eurosensor Bosch 0261230340 <this is my goto at the moment, decent price, temp sensor built in and have never had one fail. Unfortunately the connectors arent that nice.

It looks like the valve is working ok to me, I think the spike in RPM is caused by the idle vale responding to the dip just before it, this is caused I think mostly by the ignition timing fighting the idle valve. Turning on idle ign control will fix this. Also I suggest you do a firmware update as there were some closed loop idle bugs fixes in later versions. Once you have done the firmware update, attach a copy of your tune with the recent changes and I will set up a starting point for idle ign.

The offset on your exhaust cam is a bit odd, normally with the cam home (fully advanced) the offset is about 20-25deg, yours is 56 which is 30-35deg more retarded than what I would normally see. Has this engine been apart? Is it possible the exhaust cam sprocket is 2 teeth out? I have only done a little bit of work on one of these engines locally and that ran fine with the exhaust cam at 0 under most conditions. Can you do a triggerscope at idle.

Are the cam positions following the commanded angle? You would be better to attach a log and the tune so we have something to give us some clues.

There are various ways to do it. Do you want to completely switch to a different boost table based on a timer or do you want to ramp the boost up based on a timer? If you want to ramp it then the timer will have to go on one axis of a boost table - you could maybe use the third boost table.

It sounds like the pinout is wrong. There is no pinout information in the link to the item you gave so you are on your own a little. All the brand name sensors with the metripack connector use the pinout below, so this is what I would expect it to be but you never know with the cheap Chinese stuff.

No, maybe one day.

It looks like it is still there to me. Were you logged in when you looked?

ok, yeah that scope hasnt captured anything. I just noticed you are on very old firmware. I suggest you do a firmware update as I dont even know if the triggerscope worked that long ago. To do a firmware update, go to ecu controls>update firmware and follow the instructions on screen. The do a triggerscope again.

You have a trigger problem. Can you do a triggerscope when cranking. How to: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=K8uleO

Can you get us a scope capture of cam and crank when cranking with the spark plugs in. Preferably, with the time base set so we can see a whole 2 crank revolutions. My inkling is it is having trouble detecting the missing tooth gap due to the crank suddenly speeding up somewhere around the gap. If you get me a scope I will pass it on to engineering to get their thoughts.

The aux outputs switch to ground, they dont supply voltage. Does the valve click when you set the aux output to "Test(on)"?

Can you do a short log of it running or trying to start. Nothing leaps out at me in the tune as obviously wrong but there's a couple of things that could do with fixing; Injector short pulse width adder looks wrong, I would zero that out if it were mine. The IAT shows -40°C. MAP sensor was reading ok when the tune was saved but there is also an error code present for "MAP sensor below error voltage", so clear that code and make sure it doesnt come back.

It is likely you are just a couple of tenths of a kpa outside of the 5kpa tolerance allowed. What you could try is sucking on the MAP hose just a fraction to get it within the 5kpa tolerance then hit the calibrate button. That will then offset the calibration a little so after that you then do the cal once more but without sucking on it this time.

Yes, if you have built-in or a Link CAN lambda then there are enough fail-safes built-in to allow full-time closed loop. I would recommend turning on the trim table option so you can allow it to give more adjustment under say cruise conditions and less under high load/WOT - especially on the negative trim. I also would wait for the G4X if you can, as it will just be better all around with continuous improvements being added. I dont think the FuryX is far away, there were some hold ups in production due to some suppliers closing during the lockdown but I think they are all back in action now.

The only thing you need to do as far as the ECU is concerned is turn on the setting that I showed above. Whether the dash will actually work without all the other electronic modules from the original car is unknown.