Adamw

Yes we will definitely be increasing the range of plug-ins. There are some others in progress. Of those you mention the Subaru would probably be one of the highest up the list. The Evo X has some challenges which need more investigation but I hope we will be able to do something for it. The Honda will have to wait until we have a new GDI ecu.

You can measure its resistance with a multimeter will give you a pretty good idea. Most Euro and japanese cars use the Bosch curve which will give about 2500Ohms when measured at 20°C (~room temp). Most american cars use the Delphi curve which is about 3300ohms at room temp. There's a few less common specials found on some such as honda and ford but measuring resistance is a good place to start.

Ok, if you want to attach your tune I can set up the basics to get something working.

Open up the runtimes screen (F12), go to the analog tab and note down what voltage the ECU is seeing on the TP main analog input with throttle open and throttle closed. Then do the same with a multimeter on the Atessa ecu TP input, measure the voltage it is seeing with throttle open and closed. Report back with all those voltages and that will hopefully give us some clues where the problem is.

no, the fuel table value is % of master fuel number. So if you have a master fuel number of 20ms, the a value of 100% in the fuel table means 20ms inj PW. Depending on equation load source this would also usually be multiplied by MAP also. So double the boost will double the PW. Correct, there are settings to increase idle valve opening for fan and AC etc but idle ignition is generally fast enough to increase torque that it doesn't need prewarning of load events such as fan etc.

Im lost, I cant reproduce what you are seeing here with any variation that I try. Can you try these couple of extra tests to see if it gives me any clues: Try intake offset at 27. Try intake offset at 67. Try intake offset at 120. These may show if the cam is moving backwards (maybe solenoids reversed?) Your offset of 112 on exhaust is normal (according to out s52 capture ~116). , but the intake I expect should normally be around 108. According to the help file you have the wrong solenoids connected to the wrong aux outputs, can you confirm this:

I would think anti lag would help but you will need some way to get extra air in, typically this would be electronic throttle. Do you have DBW already?

Prop, Int & D all need to work in harmony so it could be any of them causing it. I suspect increasing D may help but it really just needs a little experimentation now. You will probably still need clutch for a lever shifted gearbox. The differenece is with a strain gauge gear lever the blip isnt initiated until you have already started to moved the gear lever. With paddle shift the ecu can initiate the blip as soon as you pull the paddle, then it will wait a little for the engine to respond before it activates the shift actuator. You can do clutchless downshift with a gear lever but it does take a different driving style, you have to keep weight on the gear lever for some extra time until the shift is complete. This is not instinctive so some drivers dont like it.

Yes, I believe there is a problem with the centerline display method on the intake cam - the number should get smaller when you advance but it works the wrong way. I reported this a while a go to get fixed but it appears it hasnt been fixed yet. For now I suggest to leave the centerline display turned off and then your VVT table is degrees from home position. So when intake cam is at home position (fully retarded) the angle in the table =0. If you want 30deg advance then the table number is 30.

There is no serial output on the G4X so the only way to use realdash with G4x at present is via obd2. I’m testing a CAN bus connection for them soon but still waiting on the hardware to arrive.

No a single tooth is not adequate for VVT position. The 3 tooth 1JZ pattern is about the easiest option I can suggest to duplicate.

Yes if you measure the resistance of the clutch then add a resistor of roughly the same value in series it will drop the voltage to the clutch by half. Ign Delay is set on the set base timing screen.

I would check the fuel pressure next, whether that be a cheap gauge on a piece of hose taped to the windscreen or a fuel press sensor connected to the ecu will be fine. What you are looking for is the fuel pressure should increase 1:1 with boost pressure. So, say you have 43psi fuel pressure at 0psi boost, you should see 53psi fuel pressure at 10psi boost and 63psi fuel pressure at 20psi boost. Do that and report back. Obviously you will have to see some boost to do this test but I would highly recommend you dont give the car a hard time until this is diagnosed. If it doesnt increase 1:1 then there is a fuel supply problem and that could be a large range of causes which we'd then narrow down with further tests.

Yes, it shouldnt take much to get it running reasonable, the base map is from a tuned car. Have you adjusted the master fuel etc?

I have no experience with the stock nissan wastegate valves to know how well or if they will work. Many of the OEM Subaru and Mitsi ones dont seem to give good control. But yes you can use the stock wires for the aftermarket valve. Yes, provided that ground wire is labelled something like "signal ground" or "analog ground" then definitely connect it to sensor ground. If it just says "ground" and there is no separate power ground wire then it would be best to connect to the engine block. Yes the wideband wire can go to ANV 8. There is only Temp 3 or 4 on the expansion loom isnt there?

It is pretty typical to see a small amount of overshoot or undershoot from a large step change. With PID control there is always a compromise between response speed, overshoot and stability. So yes, you could get less undershoot by increasing derivative, but this will also slow down the response speed. To me yours looks pretty good, at 3:29 you have maybe a little more oscillation than I would normally see, so you may be able to improve that a little with further experimentation.

None of them need to be shielded the signals are current based so not particularly sensitive to noise or voltage drop. I believe they can pull up to about 6A for a short time under specific conditions but it is rare to ever see more than about 3A on the two heater wires. Typical working current is 1-1.5A. I typically use 20AWG for the heater and 22AWG for the others for a typical <2M long loom.

There is no way to know without being there yourself. The original explanation of the problem was "What I'm getting is immediate loss of power when I put my foot down" so I get the feeling from that it is not just a problem at peak boost but all the way up.

Just watching your video, its a bit unusal that the cam drifts that much with RPM. Does it do the same with vanos solenoids unplugged? Can you try about 95 as your offset on DI2.

This forum is for Link ecu's, the wiring for your OEM ecu will not be relevant in any way. If you want to put a Link in it we can help, if you want help for the BMW system then you will probably have more luck on a BMW forum.

I will say it again: You could keep replacing parts until you die without finding the problem. You need to get it to someone that has the tools and experience to diagnose in a structured way. The fuel pressure would normally be one of the first things to check but it doesnt look like you have even done that yet. Anytime there is a misfire a Lambda will show lean due to unburnt air going through the engine. It is a Link CAN Lambda.

The subaru 6/7 trigger pattern wont even work wasted spark without a cam sensor as it is symmetrical - there is no unique identification on it to tell the ECU where TDC is. Unfortunately the Subaru 6/7 trigger pattern with a Vipec only allows about 20 degs advance from the stock Subaru alignment before it causes a trigger error, so you are going to have to change to something more suitable. 1JZ is quite an easy one, 36-2 on crank and 3 evenly spaced teeth on cam.

Can you post a copy of your tune also. What mods does it have?

Has the sensor wiring been messed with as well? The waveform is very distorted but it looks like they are wired incorrect polarity (+/- swapped) too. Post another scope once youve got a matching cam/crank trigger set but Im suspicious there is a wiring problem too.

Can you also do a PC log capturing some of these problems.