Adamw

So what are you talking about when you say it is “switching back and forth between the idle map and main map”? What maps are you talking about? The idle speed control rpm lockout just affects the rpm that the idle valve try’s to take control from.

The easiest option for the IAT sensor is an exp loom. Otherwise you can run your own two wires back to the ecu and connect it to pin 36 (AN Temp 2) and Pin 50 (sensor gnd). For a MAP, that ECU has one onboard so that is probably the easiest. If you really want to you can connect an external one to the MAF input but there is no 5V power supply at the MAF connector so you would have to get that from the TPS or ECU connector.

It would be very unlikely to get real knock at redline. Typically the knock RPM lockout would be set a little lower than the RPM limit so it doesnt matter if the limiter causes some false knock. Yes that is fine.

Your idle problem is more likely just the tune. Typically idle speed control is the last thing you tune after you have the ignition and fuel tuned well. So forget about that for now. Ignition delay should take care of that then by the sounds.

I think you have that wrong. In the idle ignition control section the RPM lockout is actual engine RPM. Only in the Idle Speed Control section the RPM lockout is an addition to the target Idle speed.

Set launch RPM to 3D mode, you can then put whatever you like on the launch table axis. The most common option is a multi-position "trim switch" connected to an analog input, you then reference the analog input on the launch table. You really want a switch with "detents" so that you can achieve the same setting easily, something like this:

Assuming you have a plug-in ECU, is it a GTS/GTR plug-in or the R34 GTT plug-in?

What model ecu is it - Plug-in or wire-in? Was the only change a firmware update? Do you get an error message or anything when you try to connect?

Your pinout is correct according to my manual. Assuming you are looking from the wire side of the connector.

It is important to do it at at least idle so the crankshaft speed is stable. Is it a small amount of drift over the RPM range or is it bouncing around? The ignition delay setting will only account for a small drift that is linear with RPM. If you are seeing the timing bouncing around especially at higher RPM then that is probably just typical Nissan CAS scatter and not much you can do about it apart from change to a crank trigger.

Just FYI, CAN is binary - there are just 1's and 0's going down the wires. It is the GUI of your device that is converting it to Hex. Most CAN sniffers have settings to display the data and ID's in different formats.

From the help file: Yes, you can do the speed sensor the same way. Also, for the trigger wiring it is fine to have the +12V in the same 3 core shielded cable. It is just drawn this way as the Link looms only have 2 core shielded cable for the triggers.

Typically the trigger grounds and shields will all be spliced together near the ecu and terminated to the shied/gnd pin.

It doesn’t sound like a timing problem to me but I still suggest you check it again once running and don’t use the loop, many timing lights fire on the wrong dwell edge if connected to the loop. Use a short plug lead between the coil and spark plug and clamp timing light onto that. your problem sounds more like either ISC or idle ignition control is not coming out of lockout due the tune being off.

If the timing is actually following what you are commanding it do and it is stable when locked then it doesn’t sound like you have a trigger issue at all. What makes you think there is a trigger issue? Can you post a log and trigger scope?

All of that will be no drama at all with the Thunder.

No, that guy had his sensor wired backwards and jumped in and modified the flywheel without checking.

With the engine running, hit F12 to open the runtimes screen, go the the "ECU Status" tab, have a look at Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 error, that should give you some idea where the problem is. Also, make sure no analog inputs are assigned to Lambda 1 too.

Note CAN parameters are always sent in native metric units. The AIM is smart enough to take care of the unit conversion on its own. You would normally set up the dash to receive the data in the native metric unit, then just change the "unit of measure" to whatever you want later on the channels screen.

Note that cam sensor is never going to work with the cam sprocket you have. You can see how it spikes upwards (start of cam tooth) , then about 360deg later it spikes downwards (end of cam tooth), this is because its got a "long" tooth on the cam for a hall sensor but you have fitted a VR sensor. A VR sensor will only work with a short/sharp tooth. You will need to fit a hall sensor to the cam. They are easy to tell apart, the VR sensor has a little nipple that pokes out the end whereas the hall sensor has a flat end. They also have opposite connectors. Im pretty sure the part number for the hall is 12141740959 or 12141748400, but double check those yourself. For now to get you going you could just set trigger 2 sync mode to "off", it will still run sequential but it wont always start up. If it doesnt start just stop cranking for a couple of seconds and try again. It should sync on the correct phase approx 50% of start up attempts, for the other 50% it just wont start. Also, make sure trigger 1 is set to falling edge - since it has that weird extra rising edge in the middle of the missing tooth gap.

The fall time is about 5x faster than the rise time. This means the falling edge is the most accurate. Still spliting hairs tho, even 5uS is 5/8ths of F all. Having said that, the GT101 has been obsolete for several years now so I would be surprised if that is what they are supplying. More likely one of the Littlefuse or ZF replacements.

Falling on both generally. The rest of the settings should be the same assuming the old one used hall sensors as well.

The max pulldown resistance you can use would be determined by the sensor rather than the ECU. 100Kohm should be fine for most common automotive sensors though.

This will get you in the ballpark. It wont control the sequential turbos though. 2JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr

First of all, do you actually have the dash working with the default configs? I dont want to waste a lot of time chasing my tail to find out your wiring is bad etc. For analog inputs, all of them except APS are in the stand stream. Do you really need pedal position on the dash? For the DI's the 2 wheel speeds are in the default stream, the other two will need a custom stream. Which aux? I see no point in sending the injector relay, VVT solenoid, purge valve, fan, Ethrottle etc? Wire it direct to the dash. https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/FAQ_Sensors_Fuel_level_100_eng.pdf