Adamw

Yes, that ecu was originally designed for the RB25DET, it has a function to control the VCT etc.

MGP is "Manifold Gauge Pressure", basically exactly the same as what you are used to seeing every day on a common boost/vacuum gauge. 0 is atmosphere pressure, +ve is boost, -ve is vacuum. From a tuning perspective, there is basically no difference to the tuning strategy regardless of the choice of MAP or MGP on the fuel/VE table axis. MAP will only ever have positive values on the axis, MGP could have positive or negative, but they are both just an indicator of how much load is on the engine.

This looks more the the LR wheel speed sensor is playing up to me, it is worse at the beginning of the log and gets less frequent later on. It occasionally gives a random spike to very high speed which causes a 100% torque reduction. Below is one example, LR wheel speed has jumped from 60kmh to 205kmh, the engine RPM hasnt increased and the RR wheel hasnt slowed down so I think that is mechanically impossible. Once that spike disappears the ecu quickly ramps torque back in and you can see that this upsets the car, the slip starts to increase again and causes the driver to lift off. So you may have to adjust the air gap or something on the LR wheel, the others seem consistent. In most places the TC appears to be working pretty well, slip seems to be arrested quickly and controlled well. I think I would try reducing the torque recovery rate to see if that helps reduce the slip as power is brought back in after a heavy reduction. Try something quite drastic like halving the current value so you get an obvious change in behaviour, that will help you get a feel for what it does, then you can wind it back up if it feels too slow. Your slip target seems a little tight especially at low speeds compared to what I expected. For example the 6% below at 60kmh, I would have started with something more like 12%, although I dont have much TC experience.

On the other auxes that are off they are constantly watching voltage on their pins, it the voltage drops below 2/3 of battery voltage then they are considered shorted and will report a fault. So it sounds like there is something wrong with the power supply to those relays - when you activate aux 1 it must be pulling the voltage supply on all the other relays down. Check the resistance of the fuel pump relay to start with to confirm it is not shorted internally. Be aware there are also 2 different pinouts for ISO relays which has caught me out before. If you had a mix of type A & B it could cause funky stuff.

Can you attach a copy of your map.

If it doesnt have an "RPM" signal or if the alternator drops the voltage by some other means that affects the ripple frequency then the knocklink will see a lower RPM and therefore use a lower noise threshold.

For ECU hold power to work the wiring will need to be as per factory. The main points: An ignition switch signal that is +12V when ignition is on, to Pin 85. The main relay coil connected to pin 59, the other side of the relay coil connected to ground. +12V Power supply from the main relay high current contacts to pins 99 & 100. The supply to that relay must be constant 12V - not supplied from some other relay. +12V battery feed (constant 12V) to pin 93. And of course at least some of the main grounds connected.

Ok, the firmware engineer says the trig 1 state suggests it is small spikes of ignition noise getting into the trigger signal and when these are big enough they will be interpreted as extra "teeth". You have two variations of errors in your scopes, one caused by noise on trig 2 and one caused by noise on trig 1 - so the noise source is likely coming from something that is common to both. These spikes arent always big enough/long enough to be captured in the scope but there are a couple of the more obvious ones shown below and you can see the trigger 1 state resets to idle(0) when these occur. So, a couple of things to look at: Rotor phasing - wind the engine to about 20deg BTDC by hand, pull the distributor cap off and check the rotor is roughly centred under a post in the cap. Sometimes to make it easier to tell, before pulling off the cap you can mark the OD of the distributor with a felt pen where the post sits, then remove the cap and check the rotor is pointing at that mark. If you dont have a 20BTDC mark just guestimate based on the 10deg mark will be close enough. Ignitor ground. The 4AGE ignitor grounds through its body - which is then hanging on a bracket on the coil etc so there is a lot of potential for a poor ground connection. Remove the coil and ignitor, bracket etc, make sure all contact points between the ignitor, bracket and chassis are clean, no paint where it mounts to the body etc. There should be noise filter on the coil power supply somewhere, I dont know where it is physically located but it should be close to the coil, check it is present.

If either of your drawings are correct then it looks like it should be powered by 12V, not 5V.

You will need to give us a log of the trigger error occurring, typically if a trigger error occurs near peak cyl pressure then you have ignition noise getting into the trigger signal. In modelled mode the fuel table represents volumetric efficiency, so will be a lot different to a traditional fuel table in many cases. Typically numbers around 60% in the idle area and 100% near peak torque area. You can likely just put 80% in the whole fuel table to get it running.

Yeah should be ok, the output is protected with PTC self-resetting fuses which do something like 5.5A for 30sec from memory. Be aware Haltech's DTM4 pinout is different to ours.

You cant connect the lambda to the factory bus, you are crashing the bus so nothing will work. CAN 2 needs to be set to 350Z mode and only CAN 1 can have aftermarket devices connected.

Your trigger error is likely just remaining from the last time the engine was stopped, the counter never increments in your log. It sounds like you just need to calibrate the VVT offsets. With the engine warmed up and running above the VVT RPM and ECT lockouts, set the cam angle test to calibrate, it should switch itself off in a second or two if successful.

I forgot to bounce this off the firmware guys the other day, it is still showing the same reset issue so I have left myself a note on my desk to ask for advice tomorrow.

Both the crank sensor and cam sensor (front) are wired with the incorrect polarity, and you are using the wrong trigger mode. Swap the +/- wires at the sensor plugs and change the trigger mode to "Subaru V7-10(JDM)" and you should be closer to something that will work.

What you can do to confirm the offset is giving the ecu the correct TDC is temporarily enable Individual cyl ignition trims in single mode. With the engine idling and a timing light connected to cyl 1, then put 10deg in the cyl 1 cell (0 in all others), if you see the timing mark move 10deg when you do that then the offset is correct. If you dont see the timing mark move then change the offset by +180 or -180 and try again.

It is fine and normal to share the 5V output with all sensors. Moving the TPS should not affect the 5V supply, the crank sensor wont affect the 5V supply and there is no sign of a 5V issue in any of your earlier logs. So you will need to dig a bit deeper to see what the issue is with the 5V supply - perhaps the TPS is wired wrong and is shorting the 5V to gnd at one end of its travel, or perhaps there is a high resistance connection somewhere in the 5V or Gnd circuit. Only the 2 plug ECU's (Storm/Xtreme/Fury) have the 8V output pin, but this should not be needed, there are many LS* engines out there running off the shared 5V supply. They are powered by 5V in all OEM applications as far as I have seen but they do also seem to be tolerant of a 12V supply if you wanted to try. Both of those drawings you have attached are wrong for what I know as the common grey 58X sensor. Your first drawing has the keyway on the correct side but has A & C functions swapped, and the wording "ignition feed" suggests 12V instead of 5V. Your second drawing has the keyway on the wrong side, pin functions are in the correct order, but again shows 12V instead of 5V... So to clarify, I have done a quick pic below to show how the common grey Gen IV LS 58X sensor is normally wired. I have no specific information for the LV3 so Im only assuming from your comments that it is the same as a common LS* 58X sensor.

The knocklink uses the alternator ripple that is present on the power supply wire as an indication of engine RPM to internally map knock level against RPM. Some modern cars disable the alternator for a short time at WOT and/or high RPM, so it could possibly be your alternator is disabled around this point.

With the Disable input set to "Always ON", knock control will always be disabled, set this to off. Assuming you have cylinder tables allocated and the engine is running then you should see knock levels if you tap the sensor.

And to cover a couple of the other points - CLL is disabled due to the TPS delta lockout, and the lambda goes rich because the throttle oscillation is continually activating accel fuel.

You dont need to do any wiring in regards to the E-throttle relay, just in the software the E-throttle relay needs to be set to Aux 16. Once configured correctly and working, keep a close eye on the runtime "Aux 9/10 Supply", especially during cranking, it should normally show within a volt or 2 of battery voltage. There have been a few H20X ecu's returned that had an incorrect resistor(s) fitted that caused the symptom of very low aux 9/10 voltage when the bat voltage drops. I dont know if that is widespread or not.

I was just typing a similar reply to essb00 when he replied but will leave it here as further confirmation anyway. With a distributor the coil fires every 180deg, the rotor sends the spark to the correct cylinder, so it will still start and run with the offset out -180/+180/360/etc. The only thing that will be wrong with the offset out by 180 is the injection timing which usually makes very little difference to start up. It just sounds like the spark timing was either too advanced causing the kickback, or too retarded causing the spark to jump to the wrong post in the distributor.

The factory bus is CAN 2, CAN2 should be set to 350Z mode and CAN 1 should be set to user defined/CAN lambda. You have it set opposite in your map.

Lambda 1 is showing error 5 which I havent seen before, I suspect it will be the sensor. Try swapping the sensors to confirm. Im not sure if it is only "warm up" that is excessively rich as even when warm CLL is pulling 15% fuel out on bank 2 to reach target. I would fix lambda 1 to confirm both sides are behaving the same before making any adjustments. I suspect it is probably more the values in the charge temp approximation are too small around idle which means you arent getting enough compensation as IAT changes but adjusting that now would mean the fuel table would need to be adjusted also.

One of them will be used for both sync (trigger) and vvt, the other just VVT only. Connect the left-hand cam sensor to trigger 2 as mentioned earlier.