Adamw

Can you do a log with the "PID setup" set to traction control, I think the oscillation is possibly the torque recovery rate is too high (bringing torque back in too quickly when slip drops) or the proportional is too high (taking too much torque out too quickly)

Very unlikely it is faulty, they are tested after assembly. With the ign switched on for say 5mins without the engine running, check the sensor gets hot, this will verify it is powered up. An issue I have seen a few times now in similar cases is poorly crimped teminals inside the DTM connector on the engine loom, if they are not perfect the latch/barb doesnt engage so the terminals push out backwards when you clip the plugs together. So it would be worth pulling the orange wedgelock out and check the sockets are nearly flush with the end and are secure/cant be pushed back.

In the cranking log and trigger scope with ignition mode off everything looks good, in the 2nd scope it is back to resetting again - was ign mode back on for that 2nd scope? If it was then it possibly is just kicking back due to incorrect timing. Does it sound like it kicks back about once every two revolutions?

Assuming the tuner has his own wideband. Even if you dont use closed loop it is valuable to have an air-fuel ratio measurement to diagnose and fine-tune areas.

There are no signs of the ecu doing any cuts, most likely you have a misfire. What ignition coils do you have? The 1.6ms dwell is probably a bit low for many ignition coils. The other thing that doesnt look good is injector duty cycle is over 90% at WOT, 98% in a couple of places, with no lambda connected you cant tell if that is causing an issue or not.

USDM after 2011 use a different pinout than the rest of the world so is not supported by the WRX11 ecu. We have just finished a couple of prototype ecus for the USDM cars which are going out for testing shortly, but assuming they all work correctly you are probably still talking about 6months before a production ecu would be ready.

I dont think I would be concerned if it was flagged during a trigger cal as there are a lot of fundamental controls being disrupted with that base timing screen is open. Provided you dont see them during normal operation I would say it is normal.

What ecu do you have? Are these errors reported all the time or intermittently? What firmware version are you using?

The trigger scope confirms there is indeed no signal from the cam sensor. The scope is showing a flatline of about 10V, so that suggest the sensor has power and the signal wire does have continuity back to the ecu. From this I would say the two most likely causes would be the sensor is faulty or the ground is missing from that sensor. The trigger 2 sensor is the right hand inlet cam (bank 1) sensor, you could try swapping it with the LH sensor as a quick test to rule out the sensor.

Your log file is restricted access, can you go back into the sharing settings and change it to the option that is something like "anyone with link".

I will have to bounce this off the firmware guys tomorrow. I can see it is resetting or not happy about the signal about half a revolution after sync but I dont see an obvious reason why. However I dont know all of the criteria that is being tested on every tooth in this mode to narrow down what is not being met. It is possibly too advanced and a little kickback is extending the elapsed time between 2 teeth. As a quick test in the meantime, can you temporarily set ignition mode to off and do another scope and cranking log like that.

In the "old days" we used to cover the disc with aluminium tape and cut through the slot(s) we wanted to keep, sounds crude but my old FJ20 has been like that since ~1994 and is still working. Couldn't buy aftermarket discs back then.

You have a large difference between TP sub and TP main. Either the TPS calibration wasn't done or not stored, or something is failing. Can you do a TPS calibration (have a log recording at the same time), then do a store, power cycle, and a new log of it idling after that.

As I said, the ECR33 condensor fan is not controlled by the ecu, it is controlled by the medium-pressure contacts in the AC pressure switch. Most likely your pressure is not above the medium pressure threshold or the switch is faulty.

Yes, and the cut pattern is randomised so any extra stress is relatively evenly distributed as %cut and the operating conditions vary.

If you mean you are checking voltage with a multimeter then you wont see the signal. The dwell time is about 3mS, a typical multimeter wont be able to accurately display anything less than about 500mS.

Is it a skyline plug-in ecu or a white/green LEM box? Can you get a photo of the ecu with the lid off?

A 50% fuel cut doesnt mean 50% of the fuel is removed, it means fuel is completely removed so there is no combustion at all for 50% of the combustion events. Any combustion event that is not cut will get the normal amount of fuel.

How are you checking for "no spark signal"? Do you have an oscilloscope connected to the ignition outputs?

Yes it looks like it needed more DC, and is happier in your 2nd log. It may still need more to give adequate response speed for quick changes in target but cant tell much from the log when it is just steady state. It is pretty unusual to need more than 50% DC on an EJ, usually they sit around 36-38%, it may indicate a mechanical issue is developing, so keep a close eye on it. Potentially low oil pressure, a blocked avcs filter or internal leak.

The cam position would be able to go to "-10" instead of stopping at zero, the ecu will report errors and disable cam control if it goes more than a couple of degrees below zero.

A ECR33 doesnt even have an ecu controlled fan as far as I remember? Secondly, the G4+ GTS/GTR plug-in doesnt have an aux 9 output either. Or are you saying you have re-wired the fan yourself? Assuming it is stock wiring, I think you will find the fan is controlled either by a triple-pressure switch or the AC unit.

If you pull the sensor out of the block but leave it plugged in, then do a trigger scope with the sensor just hanging in free air (dont crank engine) you should see 3.5-5V showing on the trigger 1 trace. Then if you put something iron based in front of the sensor and do another scope capture you should then see near 0V. These tests will at least confirm the sensor is working and is wired correctly.

The wrx sensors look identical to that. They are pinned: 5V Gnd TP Sub 5V Gnd TP Mian. Im pretty sure the pin numbers are printed on the back of the plug near the wires.

For your info you can "stack" GP outputs, so for example you can use the 3D table on GP PWM 1 to combine 2 variables, then put GP PWM 1 DC on the axis of GP PWM 2 table to add another dimension etc. If any of it is simple linear stuff then a math channel can often be used for simple manipulation also.