Adamw

You can send us an email at Include if you can some sort of proof of purchase and a copy of some photo ID. Also a brief story of who you purchased from etc. If it all checks out we will be able to give you an unlock code early next week.

Assuming you are talking about the 2.5 or 5.0M A loom, then the 5V supply is spliced into two for MAP & TPS. The sensor ground is spliced into 4 for MAP, TPS, IAT & ECT. The trigger wires also have sensor grounds and the shield already spliced to the shield/gnd pin. Typically I would splice the 5V again myself to allow a couple of extras for pressure sensors etc.

The Expansion loom is an optional extra. http://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2 It plugs into a small socket on the PCB. On the BMW plug-in the expansion loom will give you 2 extra temperature inputs, 2 extra analog inputs, 2 extra digital inputs, a 5V supply and a sensor ground. The Spartan would connect to one of the volt inputs and the sensor ground.

Yep, stick to your original plan.

Even connected you are not going to be able to test very thoroughly but you will at least be able to check that the ECU powers up, connect to laptop and things like MAP sensor reads correctly.

Need a bit more info. Is it a G4+? Is it a wire-in or plug-in? It would be pretty difficult for an end user to test most inputs and outputs without being connected to a running engine.

Yes, the Spartan works well and are also reliable in my experience. Shipping can be slow. I have used at least 5 of them recently in some of the budget conscious installs I have done. They have a dedicated analog ground so thats good for minimising ground offsets and the start-up calibration routine they do is helpful for checking the calibration. You can connect to any spare analog input, the expansion harness is the easiest option to use.

Oh dear, a V12 milkfloat! Lol.

Yep, that should do it. Is this in a E46? I think we might be able to get wheelspeed from the ABS unit over CAN bus if it is.

Do a short log and attach that and your tune file here. We'll start with that and see if there are any clues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Correct, we quote them as 500Hz on the Fury but they are often capable of a quite a bit more than that depending on how busy the processor interupts are. For Turbospeed you can use one of these to bring the frequency down: http://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.html For wheel speed depending on tooth count it may be ok as is or sometimes you can grind every second tooth off or something similar.

Donot do it in firing order, the ECU takes care of that. Ign 1 goes to cyl 1, ign 2 goes to cyl 2, etc. Hard to understand what you are on about here... The coils will need a switched 12V power supply. It will need to be capable of reasonable current, say 15A or so. You should be able to use the 12V wire from the 2pin plug on the dizzy if it is big enough to supply that amount of current. The two pin plug should no longer be connected to the distributor as that was there only for the original single coil. The tacho will no longer work when you change to COP. Your tacho will be a "high level" type that was designed to connect directly to the coil so will need a "tacho booster" connected to an aux output on the ECU to make the tacho work.

If you change ethrottle mode to setup mode, then all errors will be ignored, safeties disabled and I think your idle should work.

It should be doable. We have pre-configured CAN streams in the ecu for VW golf and Audi TT so one of those options seems to work with most VAG dashes. If you used a dash from some other car that we didn’t have the stream preconfigured for then you would need information about the CAN message ID and format to be able to make it work.

You might be better to connect the speed sensor to the ecu rather than the dash. From memory the Dash 2 only works with Hall effect speed sensors and I suspect the FD is reluctor. The ECU will accept either type and send speed to the dash over CAN

Simon will probably have more to offer specific to the ECU tomorrow as he knows these better than I but you are right this is a G1. If you manually bypass the FP relay so the FP runs all the time does the engine then run? My thought here is that it could just be the ECU is not commanding the pump to turn on due to no trigger signal or some other issue with the rest of the system/wiring. If the engine runs with the fuel pump manually powered up then that eliminates a lot of the possibilities and we can then just concentrate on diagnosing the fuel pump circuit. .

That sounds like you may have assembled it wrong in that case. The Pull to seat are a bit stupid. You have to first thread the wire through the plastic housing before crimping the terminals on, then crimp on the terminals, then pull the wires and terminals backwards into the housing. Clearer instructions here: Pull2seat.pdf

No. The knock trim is applied on top of the "ign angle" parameter. I dont know how to explain it any clearer. I suspect that was probably an old bug which is why I recommended updating to latest firmware.

Either will work, but the push to seat type are much easier to work with. Search 15397149 or 15397275, these are push to seat and have a nice lip on the back for shrink boot. If you are not in a rush, I have used these ones off aliexpress without drama: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-5sets-kit-LS-TPS-AEM-MAP-GT150-3p-waterproof-connector/32643558809.html

Yes, since "cyl1 knk trim" is allocated to all cylinders in your engine, your actual commanded ignition timing will always be "ign angle + cyl1 knk trim". So if you had ignition angle = 20deg and cyl 1 knk trim = -3deg logged then the actual final commanded ignition timing would have been 17deg.

To do this you would use a custom calibration rather than the built-in "LC1" calibration. Usually the offset will be linear so you can set your Lambda analog input to use Cal 4, 5 or 6 then enter the appropriate Lambda Vs Volts into one of those cal tables.

Also have a look at the Honda Civic 96-99 basemap in PC Link, that will give you some reasonable starting point (you can in fact just load this map into your Xtreme if you wish). We normally only use 200Hz on the honda IAC, I have never tried 500Hz but suspect you will get less control range at 500Hz.

If this is not an ITB engine and has a reasonably stable manifold vacuum then you will get a better tune switching your fuel table axis over to MAP or MGP. Note the existing fuel table numbers wont be much good to you after that as it will take a completely different shape.

I assume they use the "Generic Dash Stream" when connected to a i88 via CAN? The V44/G4 Generic dash CAN stream is very similar with one exception - the "Wideband" parameter was sent as AFR units with 0.01 resolution in the V44, whereas in the I88/G4+ that changed to "Lambda" with a resolution of 0.001. Their (Plex) manual is a bit confusing (combined with the higher end dashes), but it looks like it has configurable CAN receive and math channels so you should be able to easily correct the 10X factor at the plex end. Might pay to confirm that with them too but it looks ok to me.

The Interpolate function will still work correctly with traditional mode as far as I can see, just its intent is for interpolation of VE (air flow) changes, so in traditional mode it will not make sense in terms of VE as the stoich ratio and fuel properties will not be factored into it. If you are doing flex fuel then you should use modelled multi-fuel mode. If you are trying to achieve something else please give a bit more info so I can give it more thought.