Adamw

Since a 12 injector ecu may never be a big enough mover to justify a new hardware platform, another option might be firmware/software based solution that allows 2 ecus to be linked together in a master/slave configuration. 2 x Storms linked together would be a relatively cost effective option for those that need 16cyl sequential?

I'm curious to hear what the logic is behind this request? I only have involvement with a couple of high powered methanol drag cars so don't have a large pool of experience to draw from but why would you expect a methanol fuel system to be any less reliable than a petrol system? Maybe the mechanical pump? If that is the case why not just use differential fuel pressure as a GP limit? Fuel flow sensors are relatively expensive and I think it is a variable that would be pretty difficult to nail down tight enough to make it useful as an effective safety. i.e, functions like RPM limit, gear cut, warm up corrections etc are all going to throw many more dimensions into the equation on what you need to consider to arrive at expected fuel flow. I would have thought Lambda and dif fuel pressure would have been a better way to monitor the fuel system (although in my experience Lambda based safetys aren't particularly useful either it would be more consistent than fuel flow).

I suspect you are 360° out. Try adding 360 to your trigger offset.

I think the "stepper motor type" setting is meant to hide when an aux is assigned as ISC solenoid so maybe you have found a small bug. It seems to hide ok for me. In any case I think you can just ignore that setting and everything will still work fine.

Not sure how you missed the wiring: Set your aux output to ISC solenoid and select a suitable frequency. Most of the settings under Idle speed control apply to both stepper or solenoid types.

Sounds like ECU hold power or maybe the anti-theft function. Check no digital inputs are assigned to anitheft and read help about ecu hold power function so you can make sure that is set up right. Edit: Actually just noticed in your screen shots above ECU hold power is active so that your problem.

If your trigger systems uses a vr sensor I would say most likey your vr sensor is wired back-to-front.

I'm not sure if Dave is hinting that something similar to what I am suggesting is coming but at present most "external loggers" that are available cost nearly as much as the ecu itself (or more) and then you must use some 3rd party logging software. What I'm talking about a very low cost external logger who's log files open natively in the PC Link application. You then have something that is accessible to most users and you can continue to use the PC link tuning functionality such as the mixture map etc just like it was an "internal log". I'm sure something like this would even be a big bonus to your Atom customers.

Another ECU brand that I sometimes use allows you to use a $USD59 serial recorder for increased logging: https://www.keelog.com/serial_recorder/. I think some of the link data streams have about 70 channels so that would certainly be much better than the present 25, there may even be room in that datastream to squeeze in more channels... I don't see why Link couldn't implement something like this reasonably easily? It would only need a small change to the logging part of the software to allow reading/conversion of the raw serial log.

I agree with you then warmup, this can't be blamed on "wiring" when all three are standalone devices with "integrated" displays - there is no way wiring can influence any of these displayed readings. Since it does appear to be more of an offset type error rather than a multiplier error then I still think it would be worthwhile doing the inert gas test I mentioned earlier as that at least confirms the "zero" point. So you now have an interesting situation - which one do you trust?? After my personal experiences with innovate over the years I would tend to trust the fury more, but that's just my gut feeling...

I maybe stating the obvious, but have you checked all devices are set to convert to AFR using the same stoichiometric ratio (14.7)? I think the AEM might not be adjustable but G4 and LM2 certainly are. It might be a good idea to set all to display lambda units to eliminate that possibility. If you have nitrogen or argon (welding gas) handy you can also use that to test all devices read same at lambda = 1. Most devices use 14.7 by default but there are some exceptions that I've come across such as the NGK afx for instance uses 14.56. I have heard reports that the AEM reads a little rich on the rich side of stoich but have never had a known reference to test against.

You will need to grind 3 of the teeth off the top trigger just leaving one tooth. Change your sync mode to cam pulse 1x.

The other side of your enable switches can either go to ground (chassis or sensor gnd is fine) or to 12v. I wouldn't use 5V since it maybe a bit close to the switching threshold. Generally chassis ground is the easiest since you have lots of ground places to connect to behind the dashboard. For the DI settings, set the function to GP input. If your switch is connected to ground then turn the "pull-up" on and set the "on level" to low. If you choose to connect your enable switch to 12V instead then turn the pull-up off and set on level to high.Â

Jesse, I'm pretty sure the G4/G4+ cant use the EDIS system at all. It can however still work with the 36-1 wheel but the sensor would need to be wired directly to the ECU rather than through the EDIS. The cam sensor will only be usable if it has a single tooth per cam rotation. You could use some other 2 channel ignitor such as a Bosch "200" to make use of the EDIS coils or alternatively you could change to 2 or 4 coils with built in ignitors.

None of your symptoms hint at a noise issue to me - it very much sounds more likely a wiring issue.  Like maybe something is pulling down the 5v supply? Do the MAP, water & air temp sensors give correct readings at the same time that the TPS is not?  If you hit F12 to bring up the runtimes screen have a look at the analog tab to see if anything looks odd there and also the ECU status tab to check the 5v out.

Probably if you can set it up so that your sync pulse is nowhere near your missing tooth it may work. I have only been asked to tune a couple of aftermarket ECU's that used the map type sync and neither of them would stay synced for long (not links). I definitely can confirm however that the link will stay 720 synced when using a missing tooth crank if you completely remove the cam pulse while running - I'm just not sure if it will be happy if the cam pulse is still connected and drifting around a lot. For the other bike engines you mentioned I suspect they would use the map sensor method as that seems common on bikes. It works fine with OEM's however because they design their whole trigger logic to work with the variable map pulse location.  Aftermarket ECU trigger logic needs to be much more generic as they have to work with a huge range of trigger types so they will never be as robust when it comes to rejecting errors from these odd sync types. Here's a bit of useless info for you just since you seem interested in odd sync strategies... The Zytek ECU's used in F1 & touring cars in 80's & 90's were sequential without any cam sensor (from memory they didn't even have a missing tooth crank wheel). They would just try firing on the first TDC event that it saw, if it didn't start after about 5 seconds then it would switch to the next TDC and would continue doing that until the engine started. Once it saw the RPM increase above cranking speed it would lock to the correct TDC just by counting teeth.Â

John, While I agree with Simon that many OEM's sucessfully use the map sensor sync strategy, in my experience it is a lot less successful in the aftermarket world. I think the issue you will find is that the 'location' of the sync pulse (in reference to TDC) will vary/drift significantly depending on things like cranking speed, air density etc. If it only moves within a small window of degrees and you can get it always happen between the same two teeth on the crank wheel then you should be golden and it will work fine, if however this sync pulse drifts so that its crosses over a crank tooth or even just happens too closely to a crank tooth pulse then you will start to see trigger errors and odd timing events. Personally I would be looking much harder at a more traditional cam sensor if you want something that will work easily from day 1 and continue to be reliable. There are many ways to do it, my first choice is always a sensor pointing at either a bolt or hole or notch on the cam drive sprocket, but I have even done things like poke a sensor through a hole in the rocker cover and have it see a cam lobe/rocker arm/bolt/lug/notch etc. The old 1GT101DC is a really good sensor for this type of thing because they trigger off almost anything ferrous and over quite big gaps - it seems to be reliable even when fitted inside the engine.

Are you sure it's 'maxing out at 180Kpa? On that screen shot you only have 55% throttle also so boost reached will be limited by that. If you can post your actual log and cal file then someone may be able to confirm if there is any issue.

Yes that is correct.

Weldon, Can you explain better what you want to achieve? You already have a MAP sensor connected to the ECU that can be set up to log 'boost' so why do you want to connect a separate to boost pressure gauge/sensor?

Did you try a relay coil already? Like this: http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf

Typical minimum pulse width for most injectors is often considered around 2ms to keep them in the linear response region although you can run some as low as 1ms with the correct injector characterisation data and an ECU that can use that data. I don't think minimum pulsewidth at idle will be too much of a problem in something like a Harley that only makes <50HP per injector.  I'm guessing they would have something like only 300cc/min injectors so idle PW will be >2ms in batch fire mode.

The more recent Harley's that have a Delphi ecm synchronize using crankshaft acceleration to identify compression stroke. I'm not sure however if it is used only during cranking/low speed or full time. Â The earlier Harley's that had a Marelli ecu I think didnt have any sync strategy and just ran batch fire/wasted spark.

I don't think there are many people left in the tuning industry that would disagree with your experience with innovate lambda controllers. You already have a few flavours to choose from that will do what you ask; For CAN based LSU4.9 controllers I believe the G4+ will already talk to KMS UEGO, Ecotron ALM or Motec LTC, For the NTK sensor your option would be Motec LTCN. Even if link did build their own lambda to CAN controller I cant see it ever getting much cheaper than some of those listed above. Â

You should be able to switch the 3 banks at different RPMs if you use 3 outputs and some imagination with the software, but I don't think you will be able to do it using a single output without a micro controller or significant analog electronics. For a single output control sequential shift light there are many other options though, Google these companies for some basic options: Cartek, Omex, Firmtec, T-Sport, Digital Race Electronics. For something a bit more flexible, this one here will work via the Link CAN bus to give you a few more options (but more $$): http://www.jti.uk.com/Shiftlight/