Adamw

I dont think VN coils will work - I'm pretty sure they are the old GM "DIS" system? They bolt on to a special base that has all the DIS electronics inside.

Yes you definitely need an ignitor, can you confirm you have one? There is a trigger scope built-in in PClink. If you have spark at the coil though that would suggest the ecu is seeing at least some of the trigger. Another quick check is to watch RPM in PClink when cranking, if it reads around 150-200RPM during cranking the trigger is probably ok. The fact that you have spark going into the distributor and nothing coming out would suggest you have a rotor phasing problem. (i.e spark going into the distributor when the rotor is not pointing at a post) Provided the engine has run before and the distributor hasnt been moved then it is probably the trigger offset that is wrong rather than the distributor position. You could try adding increments of something like 20degs to the trigger offset until you get a spark coming out of a plug lead, once you have a spark coming out of a plug lead you can then put a timing light on it and set the trigger offset properly.

I dont see much wrong in your log either. ECU seems to be doing everything it should, most sensors are giving realistic numbers and the trigger seems happy. If you have a spark at the plugs then I would be starting to look at mechanical stuff now. Maybe cam belt has skipped some teeth etc. Start with a compression test. A couple of things I noticed in your log that I will mention; battery voltage is low during cranking and cranking RPM is low. ~9.8V & ~145RPM. Normally that wouldnt be a problem but sometimes with fouled plugs etc you need better than that, maybe battery is getting low? The TPS stays at zero throughout your log - that might be just because you never touched the throttle or perhaps it isnt working. It wont hurt to double check this is working since your main fuel table is TP based.

1st step, do a pc log of a cranking attempt. Follow this guide:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Post the log file and a copy of your .pcl here

Hi Beams, When you say "same price as a Storm", which storm are you talking about - the new Black G4+ Storm, the old blue G4+ storm or the even older G4 storm?

Hi Rory, Glad to hear you are getting closer. I see something odd in your pictures above and I am curious if you have an explanation... In your first post you have pics from a standalone scope, For trig 2, the first photo showed 15V then the 2nd photo shows 45V p2p, now the link trigger scope is only reporting about 2v p2p. What is causing the massive variation between these 3 measurements? From the few visual clues we have (s/n ratio etc) I get the feeling the Link scope is reporting a more realistic value and there is something wrong with that original scope?

The Atom does not have knock control. You can connect the fuel pump relay to any spare aux out.Most aftermarket ecu's dont use the IGF feedback, don't connect this.Yes, remove the narrow band, the wideband can perform all of the same functions.

I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy. I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also. In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point). The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects. If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.

I know with speedo signals it's common to refer to PPM (pulses per Mile), so I suspect PPK = Pulses Per Kilometer... Many GPS receivers have trouble detecting "stationary" especially when signal is poor so this might be the case here. You will need the antenna in best possible location (typically middle of roof) to reduce this effect. Many daq systems that use gps for speed will also have some other logic to reduce this issue such as comparing gps speed to lat G or some threshold setting such as "anything below 5kmh is considered zero", I can't think of a way to duplicate logic like this in Pclink.

I don't have much to add on top of what Scott has already said, but I did want to point out just in case you did not know - your main ignition table (also lambda target table to less extent) is pretty extreme above 180Kpa, you will likely break the engine if you leave it like that and run into those cells...

Hi JM_S2, The standard link/vipec tacho out is a 12V square wave so I would have expected it should work. The only thought I have is that maybe your tacho requires more current than the ECU internal pull up can supply. I would try splicing a 100ohm pull-up between 12V and your tacho signal wire and see if that works.

You need to contact your dealer and ask them for the unlock code. It wont run until you enter that. This is a security measure in case the ecu gets lost/stolen on its way to you.

Can you attach your .pclr also?

I just looked at the most recent 2JZ that I done and it was -5 too so at least there does seem to be a common theme with these. If you have no RPM showing in PC link then it suggests a trigger issue. It could also be antitheft or ecuhold power settings but I don't think the supra base maps have those functions enabled. Can you do a trigger scope and post a screen shot here? Also do a log during cranking and post that together with your .pclr (map) here.

Hi Powerboy, There is no separate "cranking ignition" table in the G4+, your timing during cranking will just come from the main ignition table. On a engine that uses MAP based load then the 6 cells I have highlighted below would probably be where you want to look

Definitely trigger two wired back to front.

Hi Tony, I'm not sure there is a way to do this in the software at present as its probably not something many people need to do. I'm sure it could be done electrically though - without giving it much thought probably something as simple as wiring them in parallel (or would it be series?) and write your own cal table for the combined sensors. I am curious how much difference are you seeing? Since engine temp is normally only used for comps like warm up enrichment and charge temp its probably not too critical to be a really accurate measurement, I would have expected just one sensor that follows the general temperature trend of the engine would suffice in most cases?

What are your injectors? Your pulsewidth at idle is only 1.5ms, most injectors wont behave linear with such a low pulse width. This is why you are getting the hunting effect. So unless you can get "short pulsewidth adder" info from the injector supplier, then I would suggest in the meantime the easiest fix is to lower your fuel pressure (try around 30psi). You will need to tweak the master fuel again to get it to run but then your idle pulsewidths will be in a region where the injector will work predictably. The tuner can then increase it again later before he starts mapping.

Woah, breaking out the retro kit there lol. That's lots of knobs & buttons to figure out... Just a note - for low speed automotive signals you don't need anything special for probes, just the cheapest you can find will be fine.

If it doesn't power up when you swap jumpers around then it suggests your jumpers were correct in the first place. The tacho "key on sweep" is a ecu function that can be turned on or off in the software (and is normally enabled in the Link base maps) so this is nothing to do with your problem.

I notice you have the pullup's turned off. Most hall sensors are open collector type and will need the pull up turned on. So assuming this is wired standalone and you are not running this piggy backed with the stock ecu then this is the first thing I would try.

Hi Mr F... You. I understand it can get frustrating when you have spent a lot of money and things don't go as smooth as expected. I'm surprised you have had trouble with Link's support however, I have always found them to be quick to reply and thorough in there help. Anyway if you are willing to persevere for a little longer I'm sure we will be able to get it right and you will be happy when it is all working good. If you are frustrated with whoever you have been dealing with and want some independent help I would be happy to offer whatever I can remotely - I'm not a dealer or in any way tied to Link but do have quite a bit of experience with them and most other brands. I don't have a lot of experience with Subaru's in particular but am sure I could still help. I have never seen any problems with the triggering system in the G4+ platform, it seems robust and reliable. Especially with yours being an OEM setup and PNP ecu it should be fairly straight forward with no mods required to anything. I suggest the first step is to post a screen shot of your trigger scope. This is normal for forums to not allow images to be uploaded, this because images chew up server space quickly. You need to upload your image to a host and put a link in your post. Tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDO-qnEgeLw As well as the trigger scope could post a PC log of the car idling and also a copy of your map. Tutorial on how to do the PC log is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

T4700, the arming threshold at 1/2 peak is just a common rule of thumb but in your case since you have big voltage it is probably not necessary to go that high. It doesn't appear to be a noise issue that you have so can probably leave your arming voltage alone for now. If you did want to try something different for arming voltage, I would just set it to a flat 3-5V for all RPM's (provided the voltage at cranking speed is above that). From your explanation above that timing drifts with RPM, I think there is a good chance that your crank sensor polarity is wrong. Can you try reversing the wires on they crank sensor. You will need to redo the trigger cal after you change that.

http://aemelectronics.com/?q=products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/4-channel-wideband-uego-afr-controller CAN info is published so I assume these would work with link too. Still probably not the best option for a 6 cylinder but thought I would mention it.

Yes, software and firmware has been updated since the original post, you can now have 8 lambda channels via CAN. You will probably want to use CAN for your EGT's also since you will use up your analog inputs pretty quick with 6 egts.