Adamw

Somewhere between 4-20 teeth at the wheel is good.  If on the driveshaft then 4-6 teeth is good.  For sensors the ZF GS100502 is often a nice option as it is just a long M12 threaded body so is easy to mount.  On the front you can often pick up of the wheel stud heads in the back of the hub.  

You can use any wideband you like - analog or CAN is fine.  You will however need to set up the input correctly with the calibration table etc.  

EGT peaks at stoich.  Leaner or richer than stoich lowers EGT.  

Yes, there are instructions in the help file.  

I dont think air is your problem, Idle ign wasnt even active when it stalled in that log.  Increase your idle ign MAP lockout to about 100kpa and increase the idle ign speed lockout to 20k or so.  Usually best to have the Idle air speed lockout lower than idle ign so the valve doesnt start to close when coasting up to traffic lights etc.  So I would leave that at 2k for now but it may want to go up a bit higher - generally no more than 15k.    
I would usually have idle ign a lot more aggressive that you have it too - usually +/- at least 5deg for the first 100RPM error, then 5deg for every 100RPM either side is a good place to start.

Yeah that is what I was suggesting.  It will be fine without ECT as the idle valve can take care of the cold fast idle.  Typically I only have ECT on the idle ign table if there is no idle valve.  

Yes, it would have to be group/staged injection mode.  Primary injectors get wired to Inj drives 1,3,5,7 in pairs.  Pairing doesnt matter as they will all be fired together.  Secondary injectors get wired in pairs to drives 2/4/6/8.

I can put it on the wish list but its priority will come down to how many have requested it.  This is the first time I have ever seen it asked.  It would be very unusual to have to tune a large 3D table for each cylinder, typically all cylinders are exposed to similar manifold designs, valve timing, compression ratios etc so VE is similar on all cylinders.  Any differences due to air flow bias, cooling system bias or fuel system bias would generally be a taken care of with a fairly basic individual cylinder trim (single cell) or a trim covering a fairly broad range of operating conditions (ie 2D or a very basic 3D).

That is normal.  The DI's pull-up is regulated 12V, the trig 2 pull-up is 5V.  The only important requirement is that the voltage rises above 1.5V when the sensor is not grounding it and falls below 1.0V when the sensor is grounding it.  

You could possibly do something similar with the idle ign table at the same time, give it say 5deg more advance all over when in gear.  The trouble with idle valve only is you dont see the full increase in torque from the extra air until a few engine cycles later.  Using advance you can instantly increase the torque on the very next cylinder to fire.  

Outside of idle conditions the throttle will go to whatever is in your E-throttle target table + idle base pos + dashpot offset.  If it went to zero during decel as soon as the RPM got low enough for idle control to engage there would be no air in the plenum and throttle is closed so the engine would stall as soon as you press the clutch in. 
You would normally have 0 right across the top row in your E-throttle target table, I noticed you have 3% above 2000rpm so that will hold it open even more.  

You can but probably dont even need a virtual aux.  You could just put "gear" directly on the table.

For the neutral/park step you need to use the digital input "Neutral/Park", most auto trans have a specific switch for this (used for starter lockout also).  If you are only using the Analog input "Gear position Sensor" the neutral/park step is not linked to that.  

You need to set the base timing as per the instructions in the manual.

The intercooler pump works correctly as is with our ECU with no modification, it is controlled by "INT".  The MTT, M+ & M- pins are only used to monitor voltage/current at the motor. 
 
Not really.  It is not a digital signal, the feedback circuit is a weird 3 wire analog signal representing motor current.  You are probably best to just set up a warning lamp for high IAT or similar. 
 
Inj 7 & 8 drives arent available on this ECU, if you wanted an extra fuel injector you would have to use the aux injection function with outputs Inj 5 and/or  6.  Charge cooler pump and oxy heater would need to be moved to different outputs.  
 
It is in the help file and manual pin functions list:

 
G4X manual has just been updated to show the full pinout.  G4+ pinouts used to only show pins that were relevant to set up.  Oil pressure switch is only connected to the dash board.  If you want to connect it to the ecu then yes, you can connect to a DI.  You would be better to use a pressure sensor however rather than a switch.  

The intercooler pump is controlled by Inj5 (or ign4 on some models), you can set this up as a GP output to switch the pump on under whatever conditions you like.  I would suggest just set it to switch on when "RPM>500" so it runs all the time the engine is running.  The pump running feedback is not used.  

You can use any common IAT sensor.  Link have a few options or depending where you live something like a GM IAT will be easier to get.  Removing MAF and changing intake plumbing is no problem for the ecu set up to use speed density (MAP/temp). 

Either would be fine.  Probably a stop on the motor is more important than a stop on the ITB's.   What we want is the throttles to be able to mechanically move past "fully open" but we will calibrate the TP sensors so that 100% is fully open (butterfly exactly parallel to air flow) so it will never go as far as the mechanical stop during normal use.
 
Sweep throttle? No.

Is now available on the Link website here: https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
 
 Mostly bug fixes, but more complete release notes here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link Updates October 2020.pdf  
 

Factory they went to D6 & D26.  This is just the high current ground for the ignitors, so engine block/head would be fine too.  

You can set it either way.  With the example settings I gave above the DI2 active state is low, so this means the launch limiter would be on when the DI2 pin is grounded.  

Long term fuel trim works really well and that will likely do what you want.  It just builds up a "correction table" that you use to correct the main fuel table.  
If you want to use the mixture map with CLL and long term fuel trim active then you can use a math channel to generate a new "Lambda without correction" channel.  Then in the mixture map set the wideband source as the math channel.  An example below, if you look at time plot where the yellow cursor is, my measured lambda was 0.984, at that time I had a -5.0% CLL trim and a -0.3% long term trim.  The math channel has calculated my lambda would have been 0.932 if CLL and long term trim was off, so this is the value we would use for the mixture map.  
Here is my math channel, im not sure the math is quite correct but it gives results close enough.
 
 

 

The minimum pulse width they list sounds way too big, possibly they are quoting minimum actual PW rather than minimum effective PW.  
Set minimum PW to zero so it doesn’t get in your way.  You can always bump it up later if they behave odd during cruise or something.

Example below.  Launch button connected to DI2.  GP RPM limit 1 will give a 5000RPM limit when the launch button is pressed, 10000RPM limit when button is not pressed.  If you wish you can use instead a 3D table with for example wheel speed if you want to slowly increase RPM limit as car starts to move.  

Unfortunately the knock pin is not connected on the VR4 ECU.  You cannot connect it to any other input, it needs to be to the dedicated knock input.  If you were willing and know someone that is reasonably capable with soldering I could give you some instructions on how to solder in a link wire to connect the knock pin to the knock input.