Adamw

Either 4 or 5pin will work, 87a wouldn’t be connected if using a 5pin

The ECU is supplied with the CANPCB and tuning cable. You will need a wideband controller.  This could be a Link CAN Lambda, a 3rd party controler connected via CAN or analog input.  If connecting via analog input then you could connect the controller in place of the original O2.  No need to keep the narrowband if you have a wideband.  You will just want a CANJST & CANEXT to connect the CAN lambda.  The Link CAN lambda typically works fine if it is the only device on the bus and there is no termination resistor.  I cant speak for 3rd party devices.   Battery or engine block would be the best - somewhere that has a direct path to bat -ve.   The idea is to disconnect the ignitor or ignition coil.  Unplugging the 2 pin connector would achieve this. Shield ground is not particularly important.  Just only ground one end, typically the ecu end is easiest.  Connect to and power ground, sensor ground or chasiss ground will be fine.

Personally I would just use Ign 7 to activate the 4D table like below, it does not need to be on the axis as you only want the 4D trim applied when the AC clutch is active..  
But if you want it on the axis then you would have to use a virtual aux on the axis.
 

You have the fuel stoichiometric ratio set to 14.1:1 in your tune and the AEM uses a fixed ratio of 14.65:1.  
Best to use Lambda on both then you never need to worry about converting between air fuel ratios.   

You have the fuel stoichiometric ratio set to 14.1:1 in your tune and the AEM uses a fixed ratio of 14.65:1.  
Best to use Lambda on both then you never need to worry about converting between air fuel ratios.   

essb00 is correct.  You need to program the spartans with a unique ID each between 950-957, you do this either with USB or bluetooth depending on how old it is.  In the ECU you only set one channel to "Link CAN Lambda", it captures all lambda ID's.

If you temporarily ground pin 16 with a jumper wire does it then not disconnect?  

It looks like you are on old firmware but current software which is why the settings shown dont match the help file text.  Staged injection accel fuel was updated to an improved strategy around firmware 6.19 which is what your help file pic explains.

Typically 2D RPM based is all that is needed.  

The general procedure would be the same as finding the best injection angle on a port injected engine - you just move it around while steady state until best torque or richest mixture is achieved.  I have only done a couple of GDI engines but the general trend I noticed was the earlier you start injecting the better power it will make.  But you can only go as far as somewhere around the point the exhaust valve closes.  

With 2 VE tables - one for the low cam and one for the high cam it means you can change the VTEC activation point at anytime in the future without needing to retune anything.  With a single fuel table it will need to be retuned (or at least touched up) if you ever change the VTEC activation point after the original tune.  
Having said that, for most cars I usually figure the ideal activation point during tuning and dont need to change it afterwards, so I most commonly just use a single table.  One of my friends with a K20 Juno however often changes his depending on what track he is running on so that he doesnt have VTEC activating right in the trickiest bit of the slowest corner or whatever - so it that car we have 2 tables.  

Map:  Connect PC Link to ECU, >file>save as.
Log: Hit F8 key, you should see the red "PC Log =off" box at the top right of screen turn greeen.  Start the engine (or attempt to start).  Hit F8 again to stop the log.  Then go to >logging>save log file as.

You can run them wasted spark ok.  2 seperate ECU's is not a great solution as you can only adjust one at a time when tuning and proper sequencing of limiters etc is not possible.  

Makes sense - just annoying to rewire everything! Thanks @Adamw
Good idea updating the document - as its excatly how it reads. "supply 12v"
 

If you want to use blended fuels based on the Ethanol sensor then you should have Fuel equation set to Modelled - Multifuel, then you have fuel settings for both "pure" fuels and they are blended depending on fuel composition reported by the sensor.  The set up and tuning is explained in the help file article: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Fuel Setup > Multi Fuel > Multi Fuel Setup and Tuning Guide

With the system type set to FP sensor the ecu will correct for changes in differential pressure - say for example your fuel filter blocks up and restricts flow, then the ecu will see the loss of pressure and open the injector for longer to try to inject the correct amount of fuel.  So it is a good strategy to have.  But my only thought in this case why I suggested a test with it turned off is because your fuel pressure is sitting at zero initially so the ecu is massively increasing the injector PW on initial crank until pressure builds.   
 
A quick adjustment if you think it has too much or too little fuel is to change the engine capacity setting.  Halving the engine capacity will halve the amount of fuel injected.  Obviously this setting eventually needs to be set correctly, but you can use it as a crude adjustment to help troubleshoot whether you have too much or too little fuel.

For the ECT trim I would suggest turning on the  "GP Boost Tables", this will give you a user configurable trim table that you can set up how you like.  I'll have to confirm with the engineers if the 200°C limit on the ECT parameter can be opened up but I suspect it can (They are on holiday for a couple of weeks).
Having said that, are you sure about the CHT's you are claiming?  I dont have wide porsche experience but have spent a fair bit of time tuning a couple of turbo porsche road cars locally and on both the CHT behave remarkably similar to a water cooled engine.  They would creep up to 130C at idle after a hard workout on a hot day, but generally ran around 100C or less when moving .   The Cyl head temp sensor is just the standard Bosch coefficient ceramic so it gets very inaccurate above about 140°C and is flat-lined by about 170°C, I cant imagine the factory would use that material if the temps were expected to run as high as 200°C.

Hi All,
The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's.  It is now compatible.
For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/
In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features.  Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc.  The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10.  One example below.
Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months.  Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force.  It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's.
Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter".   Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post.
 
 
Edit 18 Jan 2020;
Have added a zip folder with an example configuration for CAN connection using the generic USB or Bluetooth CAN Adapters (see realdash website for supported adapters).  This config also includes an example of how to send an onscreen button press to the ECU.
 
RealDash.pdf
 
Realdash CAN example.zip

As I said above, it is likely not the alternator.  A simple test with a volt meter will confirm if the alternator is over charging or not.  The more likely cause of high voltage in the ecu is the main power supply to the ecu has been disconnected (blown fuse or bad relay etc).  

Your battery voltage is showing 18V, so the ecu is activating the voltage safety limit which you have set to 18V.  
This could be the regulator in the alternator failed (check with a voltmeter) or more likley the main power supply to the ecu has been lost so the flyback is pumping up the ecu voltage. 
 

Hi All,
The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update.  But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now.
FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension.  G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx.
Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share.
 
1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf

Whats does Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 error in the runtimes screen say?

No, as far as I can see there are plenty in stock.  They would usually ship out the same day the dealer places the order.  

Yes, Active state setting changes open/close direction.  Forgot to mention above you can also use Aux 3/4 for 3 wire valves in G4X.

It is effective and that is about right.  Generally around 0.2ms is common