Scott

The modification will be needed if you want to tune the ECU and have the dash connected at the same time. This is because the ECU's tuning port and communication port both contain the serial connection. To do the modification on the ECU you will need to remove the front end plate of the ECU, locate the communications connector and then remove the yellow and gray wires from the white plug on the ECU.

You want to disconnect the Grey and Yellow wires from the 5 pin connector on the circuit board. Make sure you are doing this to the communication port and not the tuning port (orange o-ring).

Scott

Hey guys
Just thought I'd share my setup on here.
 
precision 5557 turbo
ID1000s
custom intercooler setup
Hypertune manifold
P12 8H6 Stock VVL head
CP Pistons
Manley Rods
ACL bearings
ARP Hardware 
Vipec V44
 
 
Loaded my own basemap on it enough to run and drive it to get to the dyno. (The "What's this" button works wonders!!!)
 
Made decent power
454hp/330tq
 
I'm looking to get launch control set-up for drifting so it builds boost while I'm clutched in and dragging the ebrake.

GLAD TO BE ON HERE!
 
Cheers!

The Link G4+ ECU talks to the Microtech dash over the CAN bus. We have some setup instructions for the ECU under PCLink Help > G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information.
Scott

I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy.
I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also.  In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point).  The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects.  If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.

Yes, having the base-map would be helpful.
One thing I noticed between your low speed and high speed trigger scope images is that on Trigger 1 the lower edge of the tooth after the gap seems to be moving up towards the zero volts line. If this trend continues then the ECU will not count the tooth.
Scott.

Hi powerboy,
The axis on the ignition table are able to have custom column and row values entered, this will allow you to enter different ignition timing for cranking/engine startup.

Scott.

Update. 
I've finally installed the aquamist HFS-3 water injection system and is all up and running. Controlled by the GP PWM map. Been up and running for about a week now on my MX5, no problems. 
http://vid4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/eunos93/KI55/VIDEO00531_zpsscdnc1ji.mp4


So this is one way to control the water injection via G4+. 
 

Hi Panos,
I recommend using the base-map from our Audi 1.8T plug-in ECU as a starting point. You will need to enter the deadtimes for your 870cc injectors and reduce the master fuel number so that the AFR/Lambda is close to where you want it to be. You can then tune the tables. Our Audi 1.8T plug-in ECU is intended for 1.8T e-throttle engines, but the Storm ECU does not have the e-throttle hardware.
No problem to use the Audi CAN mode, it will already be on in the base-map.
Scott.

Trigger two polarity looks to be wrong, try swapping the wires 
Also is this a non vanos engine? 

Hi Tony,
Each ignition output on the Link ECUs will put out pulses at ~ +5V and can provide up to 20 mA of current. I think this will work fine with the Bosch coils you are looking at as the say:

Scott

Hi Cooper,
The calibration looks to be readily available which makes the job easier. I will ask the engineers to consider adding the calibration.
Scott.

Hi Nigel, you're right that it is not included. I'll follow up with the engineers and see what the status on this is.
Scott.

Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one

You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread. 

Read his last post. 

Thanks for the log file, I think I may have identified the problem.
Your ECU is using firmware version 5.4.5, but according to our release notes we didn't add the AEM calibration until version 5.5.6. Because you are running a later version of PCLink (5.6.2) you have the selection available, but the ECU firmware does not know the calibration. Ideally PCLink should recognise that your firmware is not new enough and not show you the AEM calibration option. I'll ask the engineers if this is possible.
Scott

Danke!

Poo.
I've now ordered a new MPX5700AP which hopefully will fix it, and will compensate with +14kPa on alllll of the settings for the next few weeks until it arrives.  Thanks, Scott.

If you do not know what peak and hold settings to use for your particular injectors then I recommend using the ballast resistors with the injectors and using saturated injection mode. When using the saturated injection mode the peak and hold current values are not used.
Here is the guidance for your injectors and ballast resistors:
The 'Toyota Supra IV V88 Plugin.pcl' base-map is actually for our Toyota Supra NON-VVT plug-in ECU. This is the reason the peak and hold settings did not show up as it does not use the V88 wire-in ECU like your adaptor does.
Scott.

Hey guys, 
I have used both the x series gauge and inline controller in both analog and can setups.
Both ways have been just fine. 
In the past, I have had to fudge the numbers in the aem calibration for the the ecu to match the gauge.
I know that the aem ecus have a calibration gain that you need to play with to get the ecus to match the gauge as well.
Hope this helps.
 

Hi Marty
I would be reasonably confident that there will be no more changes to the logging or amount available.
 

Yes it is a reference to TDC, but it doesn't need to occur at TDC. 
You set your trigger offset in the software (calibrate trigger menu).  This is the angular distance the crank must rotate from the first tooth after the gap to TDC.  However you don't need to measure anything, just take a guess then crank it with a timing light on and adjust until the marks line up.  More info in the help file and it will make more sense when you actually do it.
I think you will find the vast majority of OEM triggers that use missing tooth wheels, the gap is never at TDC.  Ford's favourite for instance is usually 90ATDC. There are many reasons, one I already mentioned is the crank acceleration near TDC, another is if your missing tooth is in an area where your ignition event must occur (say 0-45°BTDC) there is the possibility that it would be less accurately positioned since there is no tooth to reference.  

Never mind - I looked in the G4+ help file and found the following which confirms what I hoped:
Engine Limits - True when RPM Limit, MAP Limit, Speed Limit, GP RPM Limit 1 or GP RPM Limit 2 are active.The value of Engine Limits has no effect.

the 20V doesn't use VVTi, just a simple on/off VVT.
Wire the VVT solenoid pin 2 to one of your Aux outputs, then ignition switched 12V to pins 1.
In the Aux setup, choose the function of "CAM-Switched" and then setup whatever conditions you want the VVT to be switched on and then off again. An example is attached.
The help file has engine specific setup information that covers the 20V, screenshot of that is also attached.

I just noticed you have some really odd idle ignition control table.  50deg retard all over?  So turn off idle ignition control for now.  After that, start engine and adjust your master fuel up or down (pg up & pg down keys is easiest) until your AFR is in the ball park.