Scott

Hi PiK,
Simon knows more about the G3 ECUs than I, so will likely be able to give a better answer than me. Attached is the 'new features' up to 1.9.2.
Scott
G3 New Features.pdf

Picked the car back up tonight after getting the wiring finished off and the only driving I will be doing is on the trailer until I get a tune. Not sure if its because of an exhaust leak or because its an sr20, but man it sounds pretty rough. Will play it safe with this one.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I have sent this thread to the engineers so they can consider this also.
Scott.

The controllers will have have at least 1 analog output that needs to be connected to an Analog Volt channel on the Link ECU. Often you can re-program the controllers to output a particular calibration, but as Link ECUs have some built in calibrations, and also contain custom calibration tables there is probably little point in doing this.
Scott.

Hi David,
The system you're describing for low load areas reminds me of how our Closed Loop Lambda auto mode works. In it there is a 'Gain' table and a 'Rate' table. The gain table controls the sensitivity of the system based upon the difference between the target and actual lambda difference. The rate table controls how often the system evaluates the difference. Maybe something like these two tables, but in 3D, could be useful for the Knock control system. Is this along the lines of what you're thinking?
Scott.

You could also try setting the Aux Output channel to 'GP PWM', this will allow you to specify activation conditions and also have a table with customisable axis where you you can specify the duty cycle desired.
Scott

Yes, it's fine to share the 12v+ supply to different devices, so long as the wire (relay, and fuse also) can provide sufficient current. This is often how the OEM wiring is organised also.
The downsides of using 1 source for multiple devices:
If a short circuit happens in one device, the others devices will lose power also. It is more difficult to control the devices separately from each other, you will normally have to control the ground to each device to do this. Advantages of using 1 source for multiple devices include:
Less cables, so a more simple system. Less cables, so reduction in weight and cost. Scott.

It came back to me, 'GaugeART'.
Scott.

For the record here is what the correct trigger scope now looks like since I fixed my problem.
Thanks again

Generally the supplies are able to provide a fair bit more current than is required by the system, so adding some additional load is ok. If the current draw is too much after adding the solenoid then the most likely thing to happen is that the fuse protecting the circuit will blow. I would expect the current draw of the solenoid to be quite low, you could measure the resistance of the winding and work it out if you want to. If you want to be certain that no problems will occur you could fit a relay that takes power from the battery positive (via an appropriately sized fuse) and then supplies the idle solenoid. You would have one pin of the relay's activation coil to ground, and the other pin connected to an ignition switched +12V.
Scott.

Hi, well done on what you have don so far.
For the ISC solenoid, pin 3M will go to an ignition switched +12V, pin 3Q will go to an Aux Output channel (from 1 to 8). The Ignition switched +12V could be the one used to power the ECU, or you can use one from somewhere else, possibly the supply for the ignition coils or injectors. Just make sure that the supply you use can handle the additional load. You don't want to use a supply out of the ECU for this.
Pin 1A is not needed by the Vi-PEC. Some ECUs use this for shutting down safely or saving data after the key is switched off. All the other pins will not be needed by you (thanks to your alternator swap). Pin 3K is not required, but if the signal goes from 0v to 5v you could consider connecting it to a spare AN Volt channel for interests sake.
Scott
 

Thanks scott fixed the problem

Bumped up the MAP lockout figure and tightened up the idle ignition table and so far it is idling much better. Still plenty of room for improvement and I found quite a mismatch between the Idle ign table and main Ign table as shown below so seems there was always going to be a jump when transitioning between them.  Appreciate your help

The VAG coils works perfectly fine with the Link/Vi-PEC ecus. Igniter is built into these coils. Remember to adjust the dwell to suit the coils. About 1.8 ms to about 2.5 ms if necessary@14v.
 

managed to get an extension cable made up succesfully using 3 x PC USB Dupont cables which are a 5 pin flat cable - the exact same type used by the arduino display adapter shield to the display screen so i have 2.7m of 5 pin loom cable shielded which is plenty long enough to get behind the evo dash and into the glovebox. tested and works well. new sensors next

Hi,
Yes this is fairly typical of what you would see. The battery voltage goes through some components in the ECU, so I expect some voltage drop.
Scott.

Thanks Scott, your work more money.
I must love your gear I just brought a second Thunder just to go on my engine dyno.
Keep well

Hi Tony,
You recorded that log file well.
I can see by looking in it that the Idle Status says 'RPM Lockout'. This is because the engine speed is more than 500 rpm above your target. It means the idle control is not trying to control the idle. In the log your idle position is between 70 and 71%, yet the base position table is asking for approximately 44%. I would say the ECU is adding the 25.5% from your Park/Neutral step as your Park/Neutral Status is off, so the ECU assumes you are in gear. You don't have a park/neutral switch to the ECU, so I recommend setting the Park/Neutral idle step to 0.0. This will then lower the idle position significantly and hopefully allow the closed loop control to achieve the idle target.
Scott.

Hi Andy,
'Shield/Gnd' and 'Gnd Out' pins should be used to provide ground to sensors and switches.
The connections for CAN 1 and CAN 2 are on the D connector of the Thunder.
Scott

Thanks! 
I've been tinkering with a few other things, however for the better part, the car is now running great. 
I am going to enter a series here called "Superlap" which is a time attack sort of contest that goes around to a few different tracks around the country.
One of them is based in Cromwell, which is a 21 hour trip each way for me:

 
Which is where cruise control just really shines! This is one of my favourite features so far, and one that I wasnt expecting to be available when I initially purchased the ECU. (I didnt have E-throttle initially either)
I setup an injector test bench and used the advanced injector test function to work out accurate deadtimes and short pulsewdith adder tables for both sets of my injectors:


Which made the staged injection work much much much better with changing temps etc. Also switched over to modelled fuel which works well.
So just fine tuning things, because my outer injectors are 1000cc and spray at a reasonably low pulsewidth, injector timing is something worth spending time getting right. 
I tested this out and found that at lower rpm (when mainly using inner injectors) it's best to spray very early, onto the back of hot valves and let it vapourize the fuel.
But as RPM goes up and switches over to outer injectors, it prefers the injection timing to occur as the valves are open and air is flowing into the cylinder. Which makes sense!

I tested this by statically settting the injection timing to one setting across the whole rpm range, datalogging a run, then incrementing the timing forward, and testing again.
Whereever the AFR shows as richest, that's where the best injection timing exists, as it's more efficiently mixing air/fuel so there's more fuel left over on the way out.

The below graph shows degrees before TDC combustion on the left hand side, and RPM across the top, and the air fuel ratio in each of the boxes. Yellow highlights the best AFR acheived for each RPM range, it's pretty clear to see the trend where it starts transitioning after 5500rpm from 450BTDC down to 250BTDC.



 

Hi Matius,
Normally for the cam offset you do the cam angle test and use the lowest value returned that is greater than zero. However in some situations the value that works ends up being the highest number returned from the cam angle test. I would suggest trying this.
Scott.

Last edit- changed the ID from '1792' (which is specified for the 300 and 500 series) to '1000' and it's working! Only thing not displaying correctly is the Lambda, I suspect it's a math problem as the value is changing- but I'm sure my car isn't running 6-7AFR  
 

Thanks Scott!
However, wiring issues caused my weird timing offset.
Somehow I had read cam and crank wiring schematic the wrong way
So my angle sensor offset was 360 degrees wrong because sensor polarity was f'd. So ecu was firing at rising angle.
Now that I have fixed my wiring, timing offset is 204 degrees and cam offset is 170 degrees. Running strong!

Hi Adturb,
Just read through your post a couple of times and pretty sure I know what you mean. Will pass this request on as well as the one for 3D shift light table.
Scott

On a stock road going evo there are no spare digital inputs left on the ECU connector so you have to use the Expansion connector.  However since yours is a "race car" I guess you no longer have air conditioning fitted?  If that assumption is correct then you could connect your Antilag enable switch to one of the DI's that used to be associated with A/C.  ECU pinout is in the help file, you can possibly use DI1 on pin 45 or DI5 on pin 11.