TTP

I would recommend changing Trig 2 edge to Falling and then checking your base timing with a timing light. Also as a side note your firmware is quite old.

Don't worry about the dyno, you can make a really good fuel table on the road, is just more time consuming. I will just tune it "old" school, just get someone to drive the car for you and you tune the fuel table. Are you going to run knock control? and what boost control are you going to run?

Something like below would result in true (1) when the average of TC1-4 exceeds 800.

Can you give us a log of it behaving "normally" with the VVT off.  The way it goes instantly lean at ~2700 looks more like a misfire rather than tune related.  The increase in Inj PW through that range appears to be proportional to TPS and the fuel table value so there shouldn't be a sudden change in AFR. 
I dont see any relationship to vvt in this log.    

No this is an OBD2 protocol device only as far as I know.  OBD2 is a request/response type communication, there isn't data continuously broadcast.  So for example to get lambda from this device, the "Scan tool" needs to first request it, in human language it would look something like this: "hello, Im a scan tool, ECU #6, please send me the current 02 data for sensor #2", the gauge then responds with just a single data point for that specific request and includes confirmation of what device it came from and what it represented.  If you want a continuous stream of data you have to keep requesting it again and again - and you cant make a request until the previous data has been received.
You could probably make it work with user streams by sending out a constant request, but the nature of this protocol is slow, probably less than ~10Hz at a guess so you would be better to use the analog output for connection to an ECU.  The intent of the gauge is to be convenient to log alongside ecu data with an OBD2 based logger like HP tuners etc, it is not designed to send data to an ecu this way.  

There is currently no "virtual digital input", its been on the wish list for a while.  Last time we discussed it there were thought to be significant difficulties in implementing it - one of them I remember was there are very few shortcut keys left so PC Link would need a significant rework to have assignable shortcuts.  Your Space bar suggestion is already hard coded as "jump to active cell" for example.  We talked about other options like onscreen buttons etc but I think the consensus was it really needed a future version of PC Link.
The closest you could do at present is set up a DI, have its settings panel pinned/locked on every page and change the active state setting when you need to activate it, but I can appreciate that would not always be easy in a panic situation.

First a quick explanation of antilag and cyclic idle:
The main intent of Antilag is to keep the turbo shaft speed as high as possible during over-run conditions when the throttle is usually closed and the engine is producing little exhaust energy.  It can increase exhaust energy with several factors, but usually; allowing extra air through the engine (throttle or bypass valve), retarded spark advance so more combustion heat transfers to the manifold and turbine, Ign and/or fuel cuts are used to prevent the pushing effect from the extra air/throttle and often ign cuts to allow some fuel to pass through the engine unburnt to combust in the manifold.
Cyclic idle was originally mostly used in situations where the "extra air" for antilag was not able to be switched on/off by the driver, in Group N for example where modifications were strictly limited, the throttle stop was just adjusted so that it never closed more than say 25%. With the throttle not being able to close below 25% however, when the antilag was not active, then the engine would never be able to idle so they use cyclic idle to bring the RPM down to a more sensible idle value using fuel cuts.    
With the introduction of E-throttle you can turn the "extra antilag air" on/off with the antilag, so cyclic idle is not really needed for idle/drivability like it was with a fixed throttle opening.  In the case of e-throttle, Cyclic idle is still often used for a short time after ALS to help cool down the manifold and turbine as you have a lot more cool air pumping through the manifold with the throttle open and fuel cut.  
 
This is because you have the Cyclic idle low TPS at 22%, but only 6% throttle commanded in the cyclic override.  Cyclic will only start to fade out between the Cyclic idle low/high.  I would probable suggest you leave cyclic off for now, but as an example if you want your throttle open 6% for cyclic, then your cyclic low should be about 7% and high about 10%.  
 
You have 0 in both the antilag fuel and ign cut tables.  
 

Alright mate. I'll leave it here informal like..  and await the next release <B

A quick video to show what I think is likely going on:
 
2023-05-04_20-01-14.mp4

I have seen this happen on evo's before where the ecu hold power doesnt let it power cycle.  Try again, but this time when you get to the power cycle step, completely disconnect the battery, or unplug the main ecu connector for about 10seconds, the reconnect and click ok to proceed. 

The cam position would be able to go to "-10" instead of stopping at zero, the ecu will report errors and disable cam control if it goes more than a couple of degrees below zero.  

This looks more the the LR wheel speed sensor is playing up to me, it is worse at the beginning of the log and gets less frequent later on.  It occasionally gives a random spike to very high speed which causes a 100% torque reduction.  
Below is one example, LR wheel speed has jumped from 60kmh to 205kmh, the engine RPM hasnt increased and the RR wheel hasnt slowed down so I think that is mechanically impossible.  Once that spike disappears the ecu quickly ramps torque back in and you can see that this upsets the car, the slip starts to increase again and causes the driver to lift off.  
So you may have to adjust the air gap or something on the LR wheel, the others seem consistent.  In most places the TC appears to be working pretty well, slip seems to be arrested quickly and controlled well.  I think I would try reducing the torque recovery rate to see if that helps reduce the slip as power is brought back in after a heavy reduction.  Try something quite drastic like halving the current value so you get an obvious change in behaviour, that will help you get a feel for what it does, then you can wind it back up if it feels too slow. 
Your slip target seems a little tight especially at low speeds compared to what I expected.  For example the 6% below at 60kmh, I would have started with something more like 12%, although I dont have much TC experience.

You have a very noisy TPS (most evo's do), if you ecu log it at higher frequency you will find there will be regular short TPS delta spikes above 5.  I have the TPS delta lockout set to 15 in my evo 7.   

Your CLL status says it was locked out due to MAP delta at the time you last saved the map.  This only gives a single snapshot however so may not be your only issue.  The Closed loop lambda 1 status runtime should normally tell you what is going on.  

Its certainly a pretty odd setup he has done there with equation load source set to BAP, then an alpha N fuel map overlayed with a speed density map...  Im not sure if he has out-smarted himself or has ended up with the odd mess when trying to solve a problem.  There are some other issues in there such as the IAT trim is still enabled in modelled mode and the charge temp approximation table has zero coolant bias so you will be getting twice as much air temp correction than you should be.  
Typically for your application just a single fuel table withh TPS as the load axis will do it, equation load source may need to be MAP if any of the bullet points below apply, otherwise load source = BAP will usually work better for NA ITB with high overlap.  
equation load source = MAP if any of the following are true:
The engine has an idle valve The vehicle has vacuum assisted brakes connected to manifold vacuum. The engine is boosted. There is a restrictive airbox/filter arrangement. If you arent in a big hurry, Im in AKL and could take care of it one weekend.  Im pretty much booked solid for about the next 6 weeks though.  

Ok, the firmware engineer says the trig 1 state suggests it is small spikes of ignition noise getting into the trigger signal and when these are big enough they will be interpreted as extra "teeth".  You have two variations of errors in your scopes, one caused by noise on trig 2 and one caused by noise on trig 1 - so the noise source is likely coming from something that is common to both.  These spikes arent always big enough/long enough to be captured in the scope but there are a couple of the more obvious ones shown below and you can see the trigger 1 state resets to idle(0) when these occur.
  
 
So, a couple of things to look at:
Rotor phasing - wind the engine to about 20deg BTDC by hand, pull the distributor cap off and check the rotor is roughly centred under a post in the cap.  Sometimes to make it easier to tell, before pulling off the cap you can mark the OD of the distributor with a felt pen where the post sits, then remove the cap and check the rotor is pointing at that mark.  If you dont have a 20BTDC mark just guestimate based on the 10deg mark will be close enough. Ignitor ground.  The 4AGE ignitor grounds through its body - which is then hanging on a bracket on the coil etc so there is a lot of potential for a poor ground connection.  Remove the coil and ignitor, bracket etc, make sure all contact points between the ignitor, bracket and chassis are clean, no paint where it mounts to the body etc.    There should be noise filter on the coil power supply somewhere, I dont know where it is physically located but it should be close to the coil, check it is present.  

Can you do a log with the "PID setup" set to traction control, I think the oscillation is possibly the torque recovery rate is too high (bringing torque back in too quickly when slip drops) or the proportional is too high (taking too much torque out too quickly)

For ECU hold power to work the wiring will need to be as per factory.  The main points:
An ignition switch signal that is +12V when ignition is on, to Pin 85. The main relay coil connected to pin 59, the other side of the relay coil connected to ground. +12V Power supply from the main relay high current contacts to pins 99 & 100.  The supply to that relay must be constant 12V - not supplied from some other relay. +12V battery feed (constant 12V) to pin 93. And of course at least some of the main grounds connected.

Cool. I will add 12V const to pin 93 and see how I go. 
All other points are as instructed. 
I assumed it didn't need it based on links pinout in the JZX90 manual. 

 
Thanks Guys 

I was in the middle of a reply when Vaughan beat me to it.  So here is mine anyhow:
Are you capable of basic wiring/crimping yourself?  Link do offer a variety of CAN cables that could be used, but in this case since neither the keypad or CAN lambda has a built-in termination resistor I think it would be nicer to build your own bus.
Schematically we want to achieve something like this:

 
In practice there are several different ways to achieve this. One option is to arrange like a daisy chain, provided it does not need to be waterproof you can often crimp two wires into a single connector pin so a splice is not needed.  Something like this (not shown but CAN H & L would be twisted):

 
Using Link accessories would end up something like below, so possibly more complicated and expensive than it needs to be:

The easiest would be with an expansion loom which has 5V, Sensor Gnd, AN Volt and AN temp inputs all in the one bundle. 
If you want to make do with existing wiring, then you could splice into 5V and ground at the TPS sensor, connect the MAP signal to AN Volt 2 in the airflow meter plug and the temp signal to old fuel temp sensor wire which I think is in the regulator.  

There appear to be a few variations but it looks like the security light is controlled by pin 39 in the connector at the back of the cluster.  It is a brown/red wire in this diagram.  This would probably be the easiest place to disconnect as the other end can go to either the BCM or keyless entry module depending on options. 

This one should match:

You could do with just one relay there. Don't forget to put fuses though from batt & key.

If you want to remove a tooth from the cam and run multitooth mode then either tooth will be fine.  
However if you are happy to remove the cam wheel for modification then my suggestion would be to just shorten the longest "tooth" as per my pic below.  This would then work with Evo 7-9 trigger mode which would give better resolution than multitooth mode. 
It is a bit hard to see in this pic but the two teeth are marked with red, we want to shorten the trailing end of the longest tooth so it is about 90deg long (currently it is about 140deg long). 

 
What we are trying to achieve is in the scope we want the 2nd trig 2 edge to fall when trig 1 is high.  Green trace below is current signal, red would be how it looks after cutting.