Vaughan

Through Tech support would be the other way, I have had this tab (along with a bunch of others) sitting open for a while now but haven't gotten around to looking through it properly as there is always a lot to do.

If it is a G4X then ignore the other information I gave you about external E-Throttle wiring as that was specific to G4+, you need to use either Aux 1&2 or Aux 3&4 as the E-Throttle output and an extra Aux to be the relay.

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation which is when the output is switched on and off at a constant frequency and you can vary how long it is on as a proportion of each pulse. Aux 1-8 are all PWM capable and have GP PWM as an option in their function lists. I've attached an example below, you will need to alter the numbers in the table to suit your dash gauge, just do it bit by bit when increasing the values as the gauge doesn't have a linear response.

Is it an E-Throttle or cable throttle engine/loom?

One thing to watch out for is Aux 5 & Aux 6 in the pnp both have hardware to make them high-side drives instead of low side so maybe double check how much current the VTEC solenoid and intake runner output draw to make sure the built in high side outputs in your ECU can drive them properly. (Storm and bigger ECUs have built in high side drivers on Aux 5-8).

You appear to have posted this in several places, I have answered one of your posts in the G4+ forum, can you confirm which ECU you have? G4, G4+ or G4X as the generation does change how it is done.

pinout of the main header can be found here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/E36X.pdf (this is the G4X manual but it has a more complete main header pinout). The internal H-Bridge pins aren't exposed on this pnp so you will have to use an external E-Throttle driver (https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET) with one of Aux 1-4 and one of Aux 5-8 wired to it plus an extra Aux for the E-Throttle relay and you will need to find an extra 3 An Volt inputs to be used for APS and TPS inputs. Alternatively you can get in touch with Tech Support and get it sent back for modification to expose the internal H-Bridge pins.

So you most likely won't be able to connect the bosch temperature sensor directly to the coolant gauge in the dash but you can connect a spare PWM capable Aux to the dash sensor wire and use a gp PWM table where you vary the DC with coolant temp to move the dash gauged around. I did this on my V6 swapped MR2 as I didn't have any appropriate locations for the factory dash gauge temperature sensor.

Have you got access to a CAN device that you could attach to the bus and sniff the messages with? This would allow us to see what messages are present on the bus when both devices are connected.

To reduce how far it moves you would need to open it up and do something to limit travel, to increase range you would need to open it up and reduce whatever limits it's range. If you want to be able to control it's position to anywhere within the current range you will need to fit some kind of cam sensor setup to both intake cams and a different style of cam gear and most likely a different actuator. You might find it is easier to move to the VQ platform than it is to retro fit a proper VVT setup though. A better solution might be to make the tooth angle adjustable so you can dial your cams in to make the best use of both sides of that ~20deg swing (https://boostdoc.com.au/products/rb25-s1-s2-neo-diy-adjustable-vct-intake-gear-kit). Regardless make sure you don't make the pistons and valves kiss.

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Variable_Timing_Control this page says about 20deg

As far as I'm aware the VG30dett is just switched cams not continuously variable and so would use a gp output rather than the VVT functionality.

if the lobe is at 1deg btdc and you have 3 lobes then you can use 239deg

not test timing, just check coils and the timing light. Couple of other things in your tune, you have the GTR fuel setup in the ECU where it uses TPS on the fuel table axis but if you're not using ITBs you're better off with pressure on the axis. The GTS sample map is probably a better starting point for fuel stuff so maybe do a compare and copy fuel and maybe ignition stuff across. Your Master Fuel setting probably needs to be more like 8ms because 26dett injectors are almost double the flow rate of 20det ones according to the internet.

You can measure the cam height entirely based on the crank angle, you would want to make sure you keep the tension in one direction. or measure the cam with a dial gauge on the cam and then just relate peak of cam to crank dial gauge. You can also play with settings while it is running to further confirm or adjust things like the lobe center angle and it should be reasonably easy to get it all working well with the PID Loop and feed forward table. The most important bit of data is the lobe center angle, the actual shape of the cam lobe while important doesn't need to be incredibly accurate.

Either change the hotside feed to the relay trigger to an ignition switch supply or use a spare Ignition or Injection pin instead of a normal Aux pin to trigger the relay. Aux pins backfeed when fed power while the ECU is off.

How have you wired it? Have you got the DI6 pullup turned on or off? Have you been watching the DI6 frequency runtime or the Turbo Speed runtime as the DI6 frequency runtime might be easier to see movement on.

correct, it converts your Fahrenheit value to Celsius before putting it into the ECU's table which has a limited resolution and then converts back the actual value it takes to Fahrenheit to display.

It will but I would advise checking how they wired their engine by looking at what each input and output is set to in their tune to see if they are in different places. If your pinout doesn't match his can then you can copy settings from the it but I wouldn't recommend loading it into your ECU.

your log shows it trying to spark and inject fuel, for timing light you will need to put an ignition lead between the coil and the spark plug and clamp the pickup over that, you can use the ignition test function to test your wiring, coil and timing light without cranking the engine. What makes you think it is not injecting fuel? What size injectors do you have?

That log shows it is trying to run, next up confirm your timing with a timing light. Was this engine running on the Link previously with the factory sensor?

You're going to need to reduce your trigger 1 arming voltage, I have attached the values from my RB30DET Stagea with a Yelsha D kit. Rest of the trigger settings look good. After making those changes take a PC Log of an attempt to start it and attach that here.

scope looks good enough, attach a copy of your tune so I can check the settings please.

The help manual is in PCLink, pressing F1 takes you to help for the thing you currently have selected. I have attached an example picture of how the setup is done.