Vaughan

Looks like it is a 3 wire sensor which is most likely a 12V, a switched heater ground (typically Aux 7) and the signal which is connected to An Volt 1. To repurpose these for a CAN Lambda you would use the 12V for CAN Lambda power (check that it is ign switched), cut or de-pin the An Volt 1 and Aux 7 wires at the ecu and use them for CANH and CANL and add a ground to the chassis in the engine bay for the last CAN Lambda pin. The risk with doing it this way is you could end up with a lot of noise on the CAN bus as Heater ground and signal wires aren't twisted around each other or shielded from the rest of the loom.

That actually looks like my bad, CAN Aux aren't quite ready yet and I made sure their settings didn't exist in the release but I have managed to leave them as options that can be selected, please ignore them for now. If you try and use them now you'll probably need to turn them off and back on again once the actual functionality is released

Yes you still need to do the map calibrate, the map calibrate checks to see if the map reading is within 5kpa of the baro reading and then slaps an offset on it to make them match. What pressure value does it show for MAP and what voltage value does it show for the Analog voltage (should be An Volt 3) when you have the link sensor connected? The 1kOhm (Internal) and 10kOhm (Internal) settings change the size of the internal pullup resistor used, this setting is usually changed to improve the resolution of the sensor around the area you expect it to operate in. The temperature calibrations are stored as a resistance per temperature so the ECU can calculate the resistance of the sensor by treating the system as a voltage divider with a constant value resistance from 5v to the ECU channel and a varying resistance from the ECU channel to (signal) ground. Temperature sensors typically don't change resistance relative to temperature linearly so at one end of it's range there are large changes of resistance for small temperature changes and at the other end there are small changes in resistance for large changes temperature.

what is the status of the idle ignition control when it is not responding to the idle ignition values? It is probably in a lockout of some form.

The help manual has a section on the dash2pro and the attached dash configuration file will be in the next release DASH2PRO.CMG

try it with a divider value of 10000

Open loop is active all the time, Speed lockout turns off Closed loop I believe

coworker has made the comment that you might be better of switching around math block 1 and 2 there as that would mean the LH End calculation would happen immediately before the lower threshold calulation which uses it instead of using the value from the last round of calculations, I doubt you would be able to see a difference but it would be more technically correct.

Try this, seems to work from a quick play on the desk

they shouldn't be throwing fault codes if they are connected to the ecu regardless of whether or not the engine is running, what voltages do they show with the sensors connected and what do you have set as the error low and error high values? Also don't forget to clear the fault codes once you think you have solved the problem as they don't go away on power cycle

yes it is, it isn't possible to do direct spark without adding a cam trigger signal though.

The pressure sensor looks like it matches the Link 6.5 Bar Calibration but the Temperature sensor looks like it will need a custom cal table like the one I have attached.

Fair, you could give it very sharp cutoffs by playing with your axes or you could possibly use a math block instead of the gp pwm as it looks like it would be a reasonably simple equation.

Why not just use the gp pwm output directly with either 0 or 100% Duty Cycle?

attach a copy of your new and old basemap please and I'll see if I can spot what's wrong

The factory tacho signal is probably taken from flyback on the coil negative. I have heard of this style of tacho working with the addition of a pullup to 12V(ign switched source) or the use of a coil like the one found in a relay to mimic the signal. I used the attached thread's info to modify my mr2 tacho to suit a coil on plug conversion.

I have changed all the pinouts to that style since the last release, will be in the next release, As I said earlier in G4X you can swap which way around it is and I have done this in the G4X basemaps hence why the above matches the mr2 bgb.

Better pinout, is in the new G4X manual but is the same as G4+

The MR2 and st185 celica have slightly different AC setups, from memory in the mr2 the ecu doesn't have any control over the ac. Pin34 shows up in my diagram as a knock sensor input yup Don't think this is configurable in G4+ (it is in G4X) but try it first before swapping pins, bigger idle numbers should give higher idle speed by convention.

have you tested it with the engine running? The CAN Lambda doesn't start the sensor up until after the engine is running. It is also possible to send it CAN messages to make it run while the engine is off.

18 & 52 are the main grounds I believe, 27 & 28 are sensor grounds and 35 is the trigger ground

Make sure Disable Digital Input is set to off or is inactive, if that doesn't work check the knock status runtime

How many pins does it have? You can typically figure out if it has an internal igniter based on the number of pins and by measuring the resistance between certain pins.

My bad, part of the risk of trying to convert basemaps using a custom program. New release will have it corrected to the G4+ axes.

straight from the help manual That's actually just the bottom board CAN plugs sorry, should be: Pin 1 = USB Ground Pin 2 = nc Pin 3 = USB P Pin 4 = USB N Pin 5 = USB +5V Pin 6 = nc with the pin numbering being for the round plug