Adamw

Dont overthink it too much. Set the master fuel to about 6ms, that should be somewhere in the ballpark to get it started. Once started if it sounds all lumpy then that would suggest too much fuel so reduce the master until it smooths out. If it only coughs when cranking or fires then dies after a few seconds then you likely have too little fuel so increase the master.

I suggest adding the parameter "accel fuel" to your time plot so you can see where it is happening and how much it is adding. It wont mean a lot to you initially, but it is helpful to see as you make changes. Obviously you dont want it so sensitive that is is adding extra fuel at every small touch of throttle, but you should see a decent spike during a quick stab. It varies a lot from engine to engine, but just to give you an idea I most commonly see small/short spikes of accel enrichment up to around 35-50% with a fairly quick throttle movement.

Attach your own log, you may not have the same cause as the potentially failing sensor above.

Can you attach a copy of your tune. CLL is trying to work, you can see it is pullng 13% fuel out at the beginning of the log and is down to -17% at the end of it. But lambda hasnt changed much so it suggests there is something else going on - possibly minimum PW clamp or something.

It sounds like your thermostat is not working, you should have no trouble getting up to a normal stable operating temp regardless of ambient. As for the PID, you cant do any harm. The first thing I would try is dropping the base DC as your doesnt look like it wants anything like our defaut 50%. Set PID to custom and change the base DC to about 38%, see if that helps.

Please do a short log of it cranking and attach a copy of your map. https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

No triggerscope still looks terrible. As for the 5V error, can you give us a log of it cranking.

Can you give us a trigger scope of it cranking when hot, possibly a log and the tune too.

Fuel table doesnt look right to me. You have MGP on the Y axis but it only goes down to 10Kpa at the lowest (this is positive pressure boost) - it should go down to something more like -80kpa. And in the cell it is operating in during cranking you only have a VE value of 7%, usalyy in modelled mode you wouldnt have VE numbers much below about 50% - and in the cranking area it would be more like 80%. I also think your trigger offset is wrong - Im pretty sure it will be close to zero in G4X - check your base timing.

On this ecu the Ign 3 &4 drives are used for 2 radiator fans originally (Pin 31&39). So what I would do is get an expansion loom, this has Ign 7 &8 drives on it, you can snip the fan wires off Ign 3 &4 and connect to Ign 7 & 8 instead. Then run two new wires from pin 31 & 39 to the new coils on Cyl 3 & 4. Coils for Cyl 1 & 2 will be connected to Ign 1 &2 that are going to the original wasted spark coil.

Not exactly, that valve will have completely different electronic, mechanical and physical flow characteristics. The boost control will need to be tuned from scratch. Boost control is not set up in the base map anyhow so you will need to tune from scratch no matter what valve you choose.

This is normal, they are effectively connected to the same plane in the ecu but it is how they are routed and what current goes though them that is different.

For the 2nd fuel pump relay - yes you can use Ign 7 or 8 on EXP2 or since you have upgraded to e-throttle, you should now also have aux 5/6/7/8 free on the main header (were originally for the idle valve), so you can use those for other stuff like FPump if you wish. Yes. Ethanol sensor can only be connected to DI1-8, so DI7or 8 on the EXP2 would be fine. You may possibly also have DI3 or 5 free on the main header if you are no longer using the factory IC spray function.

Well you specifically said in your first post that you wanted to figure out how you do it yourself, so rather than do it for you I gave you instructions of the process. There is a finite limit to how much data you can send on the bus so you cant just "send evertything", there are something like 1200 different channels that can be sent in G4+. There is a user configurable copy of the generic dash stream for the ecu in the PC Link CAN folder and I gave you the user configurable .xc1 for the dash in my first reply.

What specific view are you talking about? In that pic there is a standard table in text mode and runtimes value list view.

This would suggest possibly a couple of different issues. Firstly it sounds as though there is a general wiring issue common to all coils - as regardless of jumper settings on that ecu cylinder 1 is always connected to the correct pin, so coil 1 should work regardless of jumper settings provided the wiring is right. Secondly, the coil #2 getting warm may suggest the jumpers are incorrect also. the jumpers affect which header pins Ign 2,3&4 are connected to. Confirm jumpers using the method highlighted below:

You've got way too much accel enrichment I would say, you have ~100% extra fuel being dumped in for only the smallest throttle movement. Drop your accel sensitivity down to about 30, and halve the current values in your clamp table would put you back somewhere closer to what I expect to see.

Correct.

Yes 4 x AEX coil will be fine. Spark edge = Falling.

What engine is this coil from?

Yes, that coil cannot be directly connected to the ecu, it will need a 4 channel ignitor to drive it. You will have only a very weak spark, as soon as there is compression or combustion there will not be enough energy to spark.

Do you have a WRX6X ecu? Or the V3/4?

Yes, it can connect to the original wiring.

That is a dumb coil. Have you fitted an ignitor as well?

The oscillation is also the cause of the auto cal failing. The PID will probably need tuning to improve the loop stability as you will likely find some other operating condition such as a sudden stab will cause it to oscillate also. The PID values you have normally work ok for the ls throttle, but I believe there are a few variations. Motor DC will probably be a little less erratic when the loop is tuned, but it doesn’t look too unusual to me.