Adamw

No twist wont have any effect when there is little electrical noise around. Can you give us a photo inside the back of the CANF connector.

That would suggest something wrong with the CAN wiring. You should have something a little less than 2.5V on CAN low, and a bit above 2.5V on CAN high. Are you using a CAN PCB cable? Possibly pinned wrong in the CANF?

Your Aux 5 E-throttle relay is off in that log. Set "when stalled" mode to run.

Change the settings below in Ethrottle setup too. If still no joy we will need a log.

The google drive link is restricted. You will have to go back to the sharing settings and change it to something like "anyone with link can edit"

I actually wanted to see the sensor and tooth location in the distributor which is under the black cover. Not sure how easy that is to get too. While you have the cap off, you could run a small piece of wire from that coil spring to somewhere close to ground, then turn on Ign test #1 to see if you get a spark there.

I would suggest you use the internal one. Run a hose from the manifold plenum to the ECU. Not further set up required.

Ok, if you attach your ECU and dash config I can set it up for you. If all 3 devices are connected to the same bus then I will only need the dash config.

You can either do it as a single value or a 3D table, settings in here:

Attach your tune and I will set up an example.

Can you give more detail about what you want to do? Do you want EGT's displayed both in the ecu and dash?

So do they stay at 0V or something else? This would suggest you have a short or disconnection in the wiring somewhere between the ECU and throttle.

***Added later*** Also, Check your ECU firmware is at least 5.6.6, Im pretty sure the MXS stream was only added around then. So is it a Link branded dash? Is the ECU stream set to "Link-CAN BUS BASE LCC" in the dash config? If you've got a multimeter handy you could also unplug the dash 14pin plug and measure voltage between pin 2 & 8 (Gnd & CAN H), then between 2 & 9 (Gnd & CAN L) with the ignition on. You should have >~3V on CAN H and <~2V on CAN L.

Can you attach your tune.

I dont have anything else to offer. As far as I can see the ecu is doing everything correctly. If you think there is something wrong then the best option will be to connect an oscilloscope to Trig 2 and Inj 1 so you can see for yourself injector timing and PW.

The logic analyzer shows the injector timing is now correct and repeatable every start. If he is on the old firmware then injector timing could be an explanation in his case. As I mentioned earlier though, injector timing will only affect AFR at light loads when duty cycle is low.

It was the weekend. We are 1 day ahead of most countries down here. I still try to answer most basic forum posts in my own time from home but cant do a lot of proper testing while not at work. This morning I have tested your map with the new firmware on the bench extensively, simulating the same operating conditions that your logs show. I duplicated several different operating conditions for completeness but done the bulk of my testing at 4400RPM, 160kpa MAP, 13.8V, 35IAT, 85ECT, which is about where you see the biggest lambda difference in all your logs. Monitoring all 4 injector outputs against the trigger signal for timing using a logic analyzer. After more than 50 runs/ign off/restarts I always have exact same injector pulsewidth and correct injector timing every test. The PW that the ECU is commanding matches what Im measuring on the analyzer and also matches what I get using a manual calculation. So when the Injector PW and injector timing is correct and the same every test I can not see any other way the ecu can influence Lambda. We can only conclude the lambda difference is from an external influence. Perhaps an intermittent misfire on one cylinder or some temperature related change in the injector.

What does no joy mean? What voltages were showing on AN 2 & 3 when you done the tests?

Agree with driftae76. Dont cut anything, just unplug whatever you think you dont need and turn it off in the software. IAT is worth keeping - even if it cant reach directly into the airstream it will likely be better than nothing. If you intend to use the idle valve in the 20V ITB's then it will be best to keep the MAP sensor as well.

CAN set up looks ok. Can you give us a couple of pics of the wiring. Especially one of the inside of the CANF plug as many get that wrong.

Looks like in terms of electrical path it is completely symmetrical anyhow so you could wire it 1>1 or 1>6 and it would work either way.

Are you sure that's the right log? This log shows a 10sec start up hold, 10sec decay, idle in open loop and still excessive idle ign. So it appears to be using all the old settings.

Crank sensor is wrong polarity in these scopes.

Nothing much looks out of place in any of your data. In the log it appears everything is there that is needed for a spark. I wonder if it is just the offset is off by quite a bit and causing the spark to occur when the distributor rotor is not pointing at a post in the cap. If you turn the engine to TDC1 by hand and pull the distributor cap off then give us a photo of where the "sync tooth" is in relation to its sensor I should be able to estimate whether the offset is in the ballpark or not.

Can you attach a copy of the tune and a short log of it cranking.