Stevieturbo

Modern OEM Subaru COP with internal ignitors work fine even at only 30psi boost.
585's are over-rated, far too many seem to get a hard on over them despite their massive and dangerous flaw of premature firing with too much dwell.
 
Your problem is a strange one. I've used IGN1A's on a few cars ( non-link ) and never had any issues with them. If you are not 100% sure the coil triggering system is working safely, I'd proceed with caution. Sparks firing at the wrong time, can cause big problems

Depends who's putting it all together and tuning it.
Using the ecu could save some money as it removes the need for an external controller, but there really are a few ways you could do it, each with various pros and cons.
 
Standalone setups are perhaps easier for a novice, but either way it will need tuned anyway so someone competent needs involved to get it all working properly.

Easiest....2 wire sensors should be dedicated to a single ecu. ie fit a new one for the Link.
Most 3 wire powered sensors, their output can be shared ok.
 
I know what Adam is doing by connecting to inputs with no pullup resistor, but there is still a chance this can skew readings to both units giving incorrect readings.
 
And if the crank/cam triggers are VR, 2 wire...not sure how easy these will be to share between two devices ?

It's up to you to decide based on whatever it is you're trying to achieve, and what you want each ecu to do, or how active/functional you need the OEM ecu to remain.
 
In general, 2 wire sensors/triggers cannot be shared
 
3 wire powered sensors can usually share a signal.

nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ?
And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.

Then set a lean AFR rpm limit as long as your wideband is reliable and works.

The first UK/Euro/JDM EJ25 AVCS's ran a crank/cam as normal, but also had 2..mmmmm I think they were VR sensors for the rear cam positions. It was only when they moved to hall cam triggers they dumped the normal front left cam trigger on the camwheel

Perhaps get back into the real world and use some common sense.
Why should you need to anticipate basic tuning for cells ? Seriously, think about what you're saying.
 
And BS about the "lean firing that comes with fuel cut" 

Bit silly running high boost, untested cells on pump fuel with aggressive timing ? Ultimately that's what the real problem is here.
 
And a fuel cut will be a lot safer than an ignition cut. It just seems a lot choose ignition cut because it's more likely to make silly banging noises during a cut. But yes, improper ignition can and will destroy shit. Big time.

If you have a scope, you should be able to do a running compression test quite easily. I've done it before using a cheap 300psi absolute pressure sensor off ebay.
 
At higher rpm's there is a little lag with the sensor, but for the purposes of this test it is viable. I just bought a cheap compression tester and adapted the sensor to the hose so it can be used as normal. A little awkward in a Subaru maybe, but still very doable.
 
So this new engine itself....has never actually ran correctly ? What does a 4 gas analyser tell you ? Is there evidence of misfires ?

As per the instructions, yes.

The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it
And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too.
 
Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz.
https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf
 
I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.

Why do you want to change it in the first place ? ( either will work )
And why on earth are you scaling things to 400kpa !
 
Find a competent tuner and get it done right. Although at least the idle area has become a bit more sensible.

Quite simple, bad tuning can destroy even the best engine in a matter of seconds.

I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's.
 
As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable.
Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed.
 
But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken.
 
Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
 

There are any number of trigger wheels available in terms of size, diameter, tooth setup, it shouldnt be too difficult to fab something up for a solid reliable trigger.
 
On my old RV8 and now LS, I just machined the rear side of the crank pulley a little then welded a 36-1 wheel onto them and added a VR sensor ( done before the LS 24x was accommodated on most systems, although the 24x wheel they use is shite and I wouldnt use it now anwyay )
 
Trigger setups can be done very cheaply if you want. My wheel and sensor would easily be less than £100 total.

There we go.
Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing.


 

 
 
Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen

 
You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely

You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure.
 
In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head.
I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further.
Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my  factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi.
 
With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow.
 
But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener.
It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.

You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure.
 
In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head.
I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further.
Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my  factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi.
 
With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow.
 
But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener.
It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.

A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ?
 
Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.

A single screenshot without factoring in everything else within the tune means little.
 
Perhaps even more so as the scalings on the table have also been altered. But you can be sure that if it's busted 2 pistons and was knocking/detonating....maybe choose different friends ?
 
Or at least never let them near your car again.

It would be nice if these base tables could self populate whilst performing a known "safe" run to fill in the base tables with a background noise level. Then simply add the 10-20% to those values
the table could average over a few pulls if need be.

It would be nice if these base tables could self populate whilst performing a known "safe" run to fill in the base tables with a background noise level. Then simply add the 10-20% to those values
the table could average over a few pulls if need be.

Thanks guys.
All sorted now... Somebody has been playing with the loom before we got the car... They had swapped the +/- wires half way along the loom! No idea why, but swapping them back has sorted the main issues.
3x dead injectors prevented us going any further though....
Lesson to be learnt here - don't take on jobs if you don't do everything from start to finish!!!