Adamw

Can you attach a copy of your map. Your trigger error occur when the battery voltage drops below 6V so that probably wont be an issue when your battery has more charge in it. Your log shows no fuel being injected so you have the fuel mode set to off most likely. Have you set base timing? If not, try your offset at around -90 as a starting point.

Yes you can do dual bank closed loop lambda.

Idle control is not even working in that log as it is above your RPM lockout most of the time. Can you give us a log of the RPM "dying", as the lowest it goes in that log is about 1220RPM which is still 200RPM above your target. And a copy of the tune too. I would say it is mostly just too lean, but obviously idle control will need to be set up correctly too.

Mostly dashpot I would say, it looks like you have zero. You will likely need to set base position back to the correct value, add some dashpot offset and experiment with dashpot hold and decay. You can do this by giving it small throttle blips while watching how RPM approaches idle target in a time plot. Adjust 1 dashpot setting at a time and watch what the approach looks like after each adjustment. Increase offset or hold until it doesnt undershoot.

Do a couple of trigger scope captures so we can take a look if there are any clues to the trigger issue. You should have the internal pull-ups turned off if you are using the ones supplied with the kit.

Yes, remove the base first, there is a screw that needs to be removed - marked 16 in the pic below. With that screw out the whole board and main connector should lift out of the top cover. Be careful as there is the coms cable and a vacuum hose attached, you can tilt it up towards the back to access those.

I think you might have a brick. Contact [email protected].

Set the Inrush trip time longer, it looks like it only lasts half a second or so.

You can send both streams, just change the ID of one of them so they aren't both using the same ID. I will attach a generic dash DBC but it uses compound messages which many devices dont translate well from a DBC import, so dont be surprised if it doesnt work. Generic Dash.dbc

Im not sure what he is up to. You shouldn't be messing with any offsets. I would expect the only things you would need to touch to receive their standard CAN message is: Set the "Can2A Type CAR" to #6. Set MAP sensor input to #13 - CAN 2A input. Set the DBW input to #13 - CAN 2A input (their CAN spec actually says TPS is pedal position, so I assume "DBW" is what we call TPS). Set Engine RPM Input to #3 - CAN 2A input.

If you've got 12V coming out of your Haltech CAN pins when there is only 12V connected to the boxes then you either have the pinout wrong or there is an internal issue. Neither is much we can help you with, its really going to need advice from Haltech.

In the TCU software?

Whats the MAP reading with Key on engine off?

No, CAN bus socket is inside the case on the 350Z ecu.

Thats odd, we were still doing it last I heard. Let me check tomorrow.

The outside pins will switch rapidly between 12V & ground in sequence.

Yep, both 1:1.

If you dont know what the other end of the wire is connected to, then use it would be best to cut it.

Copy and paste from the email: The SI Drive status is received into the ECU as CAN AN1. It can have a value of 1, 2 or 3. You can use this in various ways depending on how complicated you want to make things. For example the most simple would be to just put CAN AN 1 directly on 1 axis of your boost and throttle tables and a 4D ign table (not really sure why you would need to change ignition unless it was for different fuel, but you can if you want), or have 2 tables for each and use CAN AN1 to blend between them. Another option would be to use GP outputs to completely switch between 3 different boost/throttle/Ign tables I have attached some pictures to show some examples. Use SiDrive directly on a table: Use SiDrive to blend 2 tables: Use SiDrive to switch between 3 separate tables:

I would say you have a hardware issue causing a stiction effect, possibly a damaged gear or some gummy deposit or similar. In the log around time 0:02 you can see the TP is on target with about -5% duty cycle on the motor, this is normal duty cycle. Over the next 4 seconds the duty cycle goes more and more negative as the ecu tries to get rid of the last tiny bit of error, but the throttle does not move. Then all of a sudden at 0:06 with the duty cycle at -45% the throttle snaps shut. After this the dutycycle goes back to -5% to hold the throttle at the correct position. It should not need 45% duty for a tiny movement, so something is causing it to "stick".

Your crank sensor is wired back to front.

Yes you will need to find your own ignition switched +14V source.

Does it happen when driving? It has tripped in the log due to the constant fast pedal stabbing with not enough time in between for the throttle to catch up, so you continuously have more than a couple of percent error present for the set fault delay of 1s. But moving the throttle like this when the alternator is not charging is probably not something that is going to happen in real life, so is probably not your issue.

The aux reporting a fault on these is normal. One of the tests the ecu does when the aux is off is an "open short test", it expects to see >2/3 bat voltage on the pin when off (due to the pull-up). These alternators however have a clamping diode in them which holds the aux voltage below about 7V so the test fails. It will still be functioning correctly.

I just searched through our tech support tickets and I found another case where aux 6 & 7 needed to be swapped. You can do this either by swapping pin 21 & 22 at the main ecu header or pin 1 & 6 at the idle motor.