Adamw

The USA S50B30 should work. The Euro S50 uses a Seimens ecu with a very different pinout.

The settings in your map dont appear to match the log you have posted but Deondre has the main problem covered, the MAP lockout is too low so idle control isnt even working. The log shows base position was 36% but the base position in your map is set to 60%, idle target is 850RPM in the log Vs 1000RPM in the map. It looks like your base position needs to be around 40% for 850RPM.

With innovate controllers the sensor usually hasnt failed, they just refuse to work when the frequency response gets slower. If you get error 2 or error 8 the sensor is likely still perfectly fine and will work with any other wideband controller, if you haven't thrown away already, save them as spares for when you have a decent controller. Innovate determine oxygen content by driving the sensor completely differently than they were ever designed to be, rather than measuring the actual pump current required to keep the nerst cell near stoich they instead drive the pump at full current all the time, continuously bouncing current backward and forwards, then use the resulting duty cycle to derive how rich or lean it was. This can give very fast response and works fine when the sensor is new, clean, and its temperature is relatively stable, but age, temperature and deposits effect the timing a lot so the controller then justs reports the sensor has failed if it takes too long to see the response it expects.

Unfortunately I think this would suggest you have an internal hardware issue. I just checked on a Storm here and I get 120ohm across those 2 pins. It's pretty odd as the CAN is tested as part of its burn-in test and they are usually pretty indestructable. Possibly just a rare failure. You will have to contact [email protected] to get it inspected.

Can you also check resistance directly on the ecu pins B27/28. With Ign off.

Can you attach a copy of your tune so I can see the voltage, pressure and BAP being reported. How old is it? Is it one of the current models in the black billet case like below?

Only 1 fan is connected to the fan control module capable of speed control (Aux 1), the condenser fan (Ign 4) is just connected to a standard relay, it operates as a single speed only (the factory ecu could switch between 2 speeds on the condenser fan). In our base map the main fain is just set up as on/off, not speed controlled.

The motorsport version is neither. Manual attached. An example map attached, this was for a 4 button keypad, the 4 button statuses are received as CAN Dig 1-4. Button 1-3 are latched action, button 4 is momentary. Flashing LED when button 2 is on, solid LED's on the others. Some adjustments you can make: G4+ with 4 button blink motorsport keypad.pclr PKP2200SI_MS_UM_REV1.2.pdf

Is it a cable throttle and 4 wire stepper IAC?

Most plug-in ecu's dont have the high side drives on aux 5-8, so they will not have enough grunt to drive a relay high. You will need to change the wiring so that the ecu is switching the ground side of the relay coil.

As a test, try turning off wall wetting compensation and zero out the short PW adder table.

The link is restricted, go back into the sharing settings and set it to "anyone with link".

On the front side of ECU B plug, can you see both terminals are visible through the holes - ie pushed all the way home? With the ignition off, and CAN lambda unplugged from the CANSS cable, do you get about 120ohms if you measure resistance between white and green at the DTM plug?

So what MAP sensor do you actually have?

Sorry I must have opened the wrong file. It still appears to be a mechanical issue to need this much duty cycle, it would be rare to ever see more than 60% DC on this engine. Can you do another short log with proportional gain at 5.00, integral gain at 0.50 and base duty at 55%.

Both your cam and crank sensors are wired back to front. You need to swap the +/- pins and the sensor plugs, then reset base timing. For the VVT, turn off aux 2, turn it back on, when it pops up with the message asking if you want to set default axes etc you must choose yes. You then need to do the cam angle test to set the VVT offset correctly.

It sounds like someone might be making up stories. Many hundreds of 1ZZ and 2ZZ's out there running Link ecu's, we have fully supported that engine including the VVT and high cam system (VVTLi) since G4 about 15years ago. I just saw you have another post related to the same subject so im going to merge it into this one. We really need more info about what the actual problem is, and preferably a log and tune to help any further.

@jdniss I think you should get your ECU back to Link for inspection, I suspect your MAP sensor is probably faulty, in your log the voltage on AN Volt 3 is a good 50mV or 10Kpa higher than it should be. Contact [email protected] to arrange. @Brian B You shouldn't need to do any tricks like that with G4X as the offset is cleared everytime you do a cal. This was different in G4+ which could end up with a zero offset stored from a previous calibration that would cause subsequent cal to fail. So if a G4X doesnt pass MAP cal you either have a faulty sensor or an incorrect calibration set.

You have used up your allowance, you can share a link using onedrive, google drive, dropbox or similar.

I dont understand your question, the VVT control looks quite acceptable in this log, you are within <1° of target in most conditions. What problem are you trying to solve?

Use the alarms feature to turn on LED's. In this example below I would have #1 LED flashing red when Antilag or cyclic idle is active. The status values arent very clear in the aim settings as they are only a maximum of 4 letters. So, this is what they mean: OFF = switched OFF A AL = Armed and antilag active. OFF2 = RPM is below 500. SA C = System armed, cyclic off. A CA = Armed and cyclic active. C C = Cyclic cooldown active. D CA = disarmed, cyclic active. Another option you can use instead of the LED's is Icons on the screen, example below.

The USDM denso pinout changed in 2011 so I think that is what you may have there. Get your dealer to get in touch with Link, they will possibly refund it. I believe the >2011USDM pinout is quite different to the rest of the world, the only way to make it work would be to repin the harness or get someone to make an adapter loom.

Correct. Clearer copy below.

I wonder if you have the USDM hitachi ecu pinout. Do you have 12V on pin B19 with the ign switch on?

There is no factory oil pressure sensor. Most likely it has a pressure switch for the warning light. You will want to keep this for the light to warn the driver and add a pressure sensor, either by teeing into the same port or finding another.