Adamw

Any of the supported CAN options work well. There are wireless or wired options, both work equally well and setup is pretty much the same. https://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

Yes, it comes from the same manufacturer as the Link ones by the looks. Calibration = Link IAT1-8.

Here's a visual that may help see how SPWA works.

Yeah, send again, or email [email protected] directly, it must be lost in space. You should get an auto-reply with a ticket number sent to your email right away as far as I remember.

No, one wire should go to Aux 3, the other wire should go to ignition switched +12V supply. However, this wont stop it from running. It would not prevent it from starting, possibly would misfire on 2 cylinders. In your map the coolant temperature shows 77°C and IAT is 55°C, why are these hot? did you have it running on the old map or something? Please do a PC log of a start up attempt so we have some data to look at.

Im still not sure what you are talking about here. You should have a VVT solenoid or "OCV" at the front of the cam cover just behind the cam pulley, connected to an aux output, aux 3 is fine. Then there should be a cam position sensor towards the back of the engine between about injector 5 & 6 that should be connected to trigger 2. There should be nothing connected to a DI.

Do the USB ports work if you plug in a mouse or something similar? Assuming they do, with the ecu USB cable plugged in, go to windows device manager and check if there is a Link Electro Systems or similar in the com ports section.

email [email protected] to confirm as it will depend on if they have a suitable sub-board in stock. They usually do a "sub-board swap" as the most cost effective option so what they have in stock changes all the time.

What is connected to DI1? The cam sensor should be connected to trigger 2. Can you do a short PC log of it cranking and tell us a bit about the engine - what size injectors etc. Is it really direct spark? Im no expert but I thought most 1JZ vvti were wasted spark? Have you confirmed the correct coils and injectors fire using the injector and ignition test functions? Also you need to go into injector setup and either set them to saturated for hi impedance injectors or if you have low impedance then set the P&H currents correctly. At the moment inj 5&6 only have a 0.1A hold set.

@SidewayzSkyvia Do you have a ticket number? I searched for N300 and your forum email address in our tech support system and cant find any query that matches. They are not away and there are very few outstanding cases waiting for a reply from what I can see. There was a notice that went out to dealers saying we would have less than normal tech support cover next week due to internal training but there should be no delays this week.

Yes you will need to set the base timing if you have moved the distributor.

Speed should be in byte 4 & 5, you have it in byte 2&3. Change the start position to 32.

If you no longer have E-throttle then probably Aux 7, 9 or 10 would be good options as they are already wires in the engine bay near the manifold.

@Brian B We looked at this closer today. There is a bit of error at the high end of the calibration range but it is much less significant than I first thought and im not sure if it is enough to cause your calibration issue. I notice your 5V output is sitting a little lower than normal too which may be some of the error. Can you try a custom linear cal like below to see if it passes MAP cal with this. If it doesnt can you go around and unplug a few of your other sensors to see if the 5V output voltage gets closer to 5.00V (it was reading 4.96V when your map was last saved).

It sounds like you should contact [email protected] to arrange getting it back for inspection. The test report for your serial number shows it was at least all working correctly when it left NZ warehouse in 2019 and they are pretty difficult to damage, so make sure you are as certain as can be that it is faulty before sending back. Generally, when they fail they will fail as a short to ground so the injector stays open, it is not impossible, but also not very common to fail as open circuit as you describe.

The Dash2 only talks to other race technology devices directly - not ECU's. So to display ECU data on the dash you will need a Race technology CAN adapter as well. If you dont already own the Dash2, I would be a little hesitant to suggest one personally. Everyone I have set up has always been a big ball ache getting them to work, the config files they provide are usually all messed up, all sorts of bugs and odd behaviour, and their support is not very good. The Dash2pro was a much better dash and generally a lot less painful but still not as easy as more modern options. Attached is a startup map I made that shouldn't be too far off. LS3 Sample Start up cable throttle.pclr

It is basically an adapter loom for a wire-in type ECU. The G4X Xtreme or G4X Fury would be the two intended ECU options capable of running that engine.

Yes, and the "Delphi AC IAT" and "Link IAT 1-8" cal is the same.

Im 99% sure that would be for a 36-2 crank wheel with reluctor like a 1ZZ or 1JZ etc. The sub-board for the 24 tooth + 1 sync toyota dizzy type trigger would have a trigger micro labelled SUB24 or SUB24NEW. Basically the same board you have but with different firmware.

@Brian B I suspect in your case the built-in "Link 3 Bar" calibration in the firmware might be wrong. At least with the little bit of testing I done today I was getting low values reported by PC Link vs what I calculate from voltage using the manufacturer's transfer function. I just asked the Firmware team to confirm so I will come back to you when I have an answer.

If you want to extend the USB tuning cable you would be better to use a generic computer store "active USB extension cable". A standard passive USB cable signal degrades very quickly as length increases, usually about 2M max for USB2.0, whereas active cables can go out to about 20M.

In >fuel>fuel setup>Injector setup>injection setup, are all the P&H/saturated settings the same?

Can the throttle stop not just be closed a little more? The idle valve is fully closed so the ecu cant bring the RPM down any more. The cause of the "RPM hang" is at the beginning of the log you have idle ign active so that is pulling the RPM down close to target, after you blip the throttle then idle ign is disabled, the idle valve is already fully closed so the ecu cant do anything further. The connector on the CAN cable is a JST XA series.

I suspect the unstable idle is possibly due to the SPWA as the lambda bounces up and down by a whole lot more than the reported effective PW. You can see his reported Eff PW is bouncing between about 0.5 and 0.6mS (this reported value doesnt include SPWA). If the injector was perfectly linear then 0.6ms would be 20% more fuel than 0.5ms. If you add the SPWA figures on to that - at 0.5PW the SPWA is -0.066 and at 0.625PW the SPWA is +0.046 so you actually end up with a final PW of 0.434ms for the commanded 0.5 and final of 0.646 for the 0.6 commanded, or you could say 48% extra fuel/PW. Obviously those adders are there to compensate for an injector that is not perfectly linear, but perhaps those or the deadtimes are wrong and therefore adding or removing fuel where it doesnt need to be. For the wall wetting I know it is disabled during start up so it is unlikely but I thought there could potentially be something triggering it either at shutdown or shortly after starting that causes the flooding.

The main fan will run at full speed when above the enable temperature with the base map settings. I will attach an example of how to do speed control below. Change Engine fan 1 output to a virtual aux, enable a GP PWM and set its output to aux 1 with active state high. Use the virtual aux as the Sw parameter - (so the fan will still turn on/off based on the "Engine Fan 1" temperature setting and hysteresis). The stock ecu uses 3900Hz. Then in your PWM DC table you can set it up to vary speed however you like (100% = full speed, and I suggest you dont go lower than 25%). In my example I have ECT on one axis and AC request on the other, so at 88°C the fan will run at 25% speed with AC off or 60% with AC on and the fan speed will ramp up if ECT continues to rise.