Adamw

I assume you mean the set base timing tool? That would be expected behaviour because when you open that screen the timing is locked to whatever you have set in the "lock timing to" field at the top. The ecu can no longer control idle speed with ignition timing when you have locked the timing. You didnt answer any of these:

No thats not normal, it looks like it has had a mis-soldered component that eventually got bumped off. Contact [email protected] to get it replaced or fixed. However, that missing cap is only part of the decoupling before the 5V regulator, it will not prevent the ecu from connecting or working, so I suspect this to be more a coincidence rather than your actual problem. We should do a bit more diagnosis first. Do you have blue LED's glowing with the ecu plugged in and ignition on?

They dont have oil pressure or coolant pressure connected to the ecu from factory. I don't even think they have an oil pressure gauge standard do they? Most likely you have an oil pressure switch for a warning lamp which is not much use for logging.

Our internal notes list pins L, X, AB, AF & AJ as power grounds. Ideally these would all go to the same point on the engine somewhere, but if they are currently to separate points its not going to stop it from running. 3S is the crank sensor ground, and 3AB is the sensor ground for all other sensors. Do the coils spark in test mode?

A fuel map requires more resolution as there are often non-linear features and lumps and bumps in VE due to scavenging and resonance etc, you dont have any of these distortions for a target. In most cases you could probably get away with 6 cells or less for the target table.

I would say the "stutter" is mostly the Limiter because the oil pump isn't working. It looks like it could do with richening up a bit - just increase the master fuel a little. Ignition timing needs to be checked. Set up the staged injector sec/pri flow ratio as per the formula in the help file initially, but this will need proper testing under load to verify once you have the oil pump etc fixed.

You should be able to order direct from Blink. Im not keen to attempt any more as I bricked the last one. Blink apparently recently changed the microprocessor on the 12button ones and they never mentioned the new micro is not compatible with the motorsport firmware when they gave it to me... It has to go all the way back to Italy to be fixed now.

This would suggest the signal being received does not match the expected 60-2. Can you reduce the arming threshold as suggested earlier. What sensor air gap do you have? Is the air gap reasonably uniform all the way around? Can you unplug the ecu and tell me what resistance you have measuring between pin 7 & 8.

That would be a dead short, I would expect more like 30-50ohms. Are you measuring resistance between pin 8 & 9 with the ecu unplugged?

If you are changing to a cable throttle you will no longer need an APS (pedal sensor), just a single TPS sensor on the throttle bodies. This can be connected to the original signal wires from the electronic throttle or you can connect to any other spare AN Volt input. In the software set E-throttle 1 mode to off and assign the Throttle position sensor source in the analog inputs menu.

Firstly you have no cam sensor and are running wasted spark so 0 offset is the same as -360 or +360. So if it already runs with the offset at 0 then you should only need a small adjustment either side of zero to get the correct timing. Increasing the offset number will advance the spark and decreasing will retard. Do you have the timing light connected to an HT lead between the coil and spark plug? Is it a non-advance timing light? With the set base timing screen open so the timing is locked, if you rev the engine does the timing mark stay relatively still or does it drift off the mark significantly (say more than 3deg)? Are you hitting enter when you change the offset and the numbers turn blue?

Can you explain with a bit more detail, I dont understand the question well. Are you using an Altezza plug-in ECU or a wire-in ecu? Are you fitting ITB's and you want them operated by an electronic throttle actuator?

Yes I have seen this before just recently, it appears to be stiction/friction related where the TP is just sitting a little off target, but the throttle motor doesnt respond to a small change in DC. The integral continues to wind in more and more DC until all of a sudden it has enough torque to overcome the stiction so the TP does a big jump past target. Then the exact same happens again in the reverse direction trying to get back to target. Good PID control generally relies on the process variable (TPS) to respond reasonably linearly to the control variable (motor DC), so you can see in your log pic below this is where the issue is coming from. Where my cursor is the TPS is 0.5% below target, motor DC is initially at -36.5%, the ecu increases DC all the way to about -17% with no TP movement at all, then suddenly with just the last couple of percent more DC, the TP jumps 1%, now above target. I noticed this happening on one of our dyno engines a couple of weeks ago when I was at head office doing some testing so I played around with tuning and a few firmware strategies trying to solve it but run out of time without getting to the bottom of it. I initially thought it was the return spring "neutral position" that was causing it so got the firmware guys to code in a feed forward table etc with no improvement. More investigation showed it was actually well away from the neutral position. I was starting to suspect possibly there was some damage to the internal gears even though moving the blade by hand it felt reasonably smooth. It wasn't dismantlable so I haven't ruled that out yet. I have a few other ideas in the back of my mind but it adds tuning complication so I really need to rule out the mechanical possibilities then get a scope connected and spend a lot more time on it when I get the chance. Unfortunately that's not going to be for a while as I have a fair bit on at the minute. I dont have a lot of good advice except try to get your normal warm idle outside of the TP range where this occurs. Change ignition timing and mixture etc to see if you can get it to idle with the TP half a % above or below this problem spot.

No it looks like base position table is way off as well, this is what causes the idle to sit higher than target and slowly come down. So you have likely changed something else that effected the amount of air the engine needed after the original open loop tune - most commonly mixture or timing, but possibly the engine has got freer, thinner oil etc. The antistall gain is only kicking in when the oscillation gets real bad, from memory the RPM needs to drop more than 150RPM below target.

Attach a PC log and the tune. Have you set base timing as well?

Trigger 1 signal shows NO the whole time it is cranking in that log. You can try reducing the arming threshold to 0.2V in case you are not reaching 0.5V, but generally 60 teeth would generate relatively high voltage provided it was set up correctly mechanically. So the problem in this log is an adequate trigger 1 signal is not reaching the ecu.

The dwell scatter is a trigger issue, most likely related to the arming threshold being too high, but in both places that occurred in your log it was around ~3600/3800RPM, so probably not the cause of your 5500RPM issue. Can you do a trigger scope at idle and another at 3000. You have a log named "Break up and clean pull back to back", but in it there are only 2 pulls to about 4000RPM and one to 5900RPM, which one was the good one and which one was the problem one? In the other log "General driving and pull with break up" where did the issue occur? From the look of your injector PW curve, your peak torque is right about 5500RPM, so it could well be just not enough ignition energy for a rich ethanol mixture at high cyl pressure. 29deg Ign advance at 160Kpa and peak torque RPM seems a bit extreme, if you remove say 10deg advance from a few cells around this area does it still misfire?

I havent personally ever used a seimens one or the wide body continental one, all have been the narrow ones similar to the link branded one. If you arent using a Link sensor then you will have to verify yourself. Just try it either way, the temp will read correct one way and miles off the other.

The lambda shows 1.303. AN Volt 1 is showing 4.95V, so that is what the gauge is outputting.

I agree with Derek, just not enough air. It appears the valve is working correctly as we see the position reduce as the engine warms up. Setting the base position table as he suggests will work for warm but you are already needing 100% for anything less than 50°C so its not going to have enough air for idle target on cold start. It might be better to adjust the throttle stop (assuming it is adjustable?) so the idle valve doesnt need to flow so much.

A V6 crank wheel wouldnt work, but the triggerscope shows you already have the correct V10/EJ25 crank trigger wheel, however it is showing on trigger 2 instead of trigger 1. Swap the immobaliser DIP switches on the adapter board to opposite option will swap trig 1 with trig 2. Change trigger mode to EJ25. Do a new scope with those changes.

That should match the Lotus espirt turbo trigger mode. This mode supports cam sensor as well if you want to run sequential/direct spark. If no cam sensor set trigger 2 sync mode to none.

Of course it works, it has to otherwise modelled fuel equation wouldnt work. If G4X make sure you use the correct active edge (rising for the link sensor and most others I know of). Random G4+ log: G4X:

The oscillation is closed loop lambda, mostly the update rate is too high, possibly excessive gain as well, but start with the rate. Reduce the update rate to 1Hz at 1000RPM, 2Hz at 2000RPM and maybe 5Hz at 3000. The overshoot is excessive base position and fan step I think. If we look at time section 2:25, you are idling close to target RPM with 2 fans running with the throttle open 4.5%. But you have 4% commanded in E-throttle target, plus 2.0% in base position, and a further 1.5% fan step, so you are telling the ecu to go to 7.5%, when it only needs 4.5%. You can see the "E-throttle ISC CL trim" is pulling 3% out to achieve the idle target. The oscillation is initially caused again by CLL, but this does then cause the RPM to drop low enough to hit the anti-stall gain which upsets things further. Reduce the anti-stall gain to 1.5 or 2.0. This is the same CLL and anti-stall gain issue as above. Not really related to idle but something I noticed in your log - the engine fan 2 only has a 1deg hysteresis on it which causes the fan to bounce on and off rapidly when the temp crosses the threshold. ECT only has a 1 deg resolution so your hysteresis needs to be bigger. This will be pretty hard on the relay and fan motor.

Ok, CAN you unplug the CAN cable out of CAN 1 socket, and it sounds like you possibly have a driver issue also. Can you give me a pic of the error in windows device manager. Do both laptops show the same error in device manager?