Adamw

Frequency and duty will only be reported for ignition drives in aux modes. There is dwell being commanded in the log so the ecu is commanding a spark. You can pull a spark plug out to physically confirm a spark to rule out the timing light.

Engine torque typically responds almost instantly to spark advance, you will notice the idle ignition adds significantly more advance as the RPM comes down close to target so I think it is probably helping reduce the undershoot, not causing it. Typically you want idle ignition working at higher speed and RPM to the air flow control so I dont think the lack of speed lock out is doing you any harm in this case. If you want the speed lockout to work you just need to set non driven wheel speed source to LR wheel as well. Correct. ID data usually works better than most, however, they test the injectors with a Motec injector driver and a test fluid that is only somewhat similar to gasoline, the SPWA is only determined at one specific voltage and one specific pressure and is only an average of a large batch of tested injectors, so there is still a lot of room for error. The reason I think it is worth zeroing it out as a test is your wideband is reporting a swing in lambda of about 20% where the reported inj PW is only varying a few % more than MAP

In modelled fuel equation the fuel table numbers represent volumetric efficiency. Typical VE numbers are around 50-60 % at idle and 100-110% at peak torque. If it is reaching higher than that then it suggests the actual injector flow rate is lower than set.

Here you go. GPS speed from the dash will be available as "LR Wheel speed" in the ecu. THE MAIN SETUP 230723 GPS out.zconfig 23.7.23 with GPS LR wheel.pclr

Correct, you just want the -20 in there while doing the timing check. You can right click on the table then do >im port/export>export to file to save a copy of the table before doing the calibration, then import it back in afterwards.

Can you load each of these 2 maps in and do a short PC log for each with just ignition on. Also do the "ATMA" monitor all command with the OBD2 link when these are running. Metz-e36 GJP CAN test2.pclx Metz-e36 GJP CAN test1.pclx

Although the R35 coils would still be a significant upgrade over the K20 coils, I think I would be leaning more towards the IGN1A as its just so powerful compared to everything else. There is an issue with the IGN1A in this situation however that you need to know of - that is they have an 18V clamping diode inside them. This means if battery voltage ever goes above 18V when the ignition switch is on the coils start pulling high current through the 12V pin and can blow fuses or melt wires etc. Since you have a total loss system it should be fine to run like that, but you do need to be careful for example to never turn the ign switch on when the battery charger is on. Many promod guys use these coils successfully with 16V systems knowing of this limitation. Also be aware when running coils like these capable of generating such high energy the potential for spark leakage becomes high so you need to take all precautions to prevent this. With a dohc engine especially you have spark plugs down inside a conductive "well" so the spark really wants to jump out the side of the spark plug boot rather than jump the gap inside the high-pressure cylinder. With the IGN1A you need nice long spark plug boots that fit the spark plug tightly and extend all the way down the porcelain. At the coil end you want boots that extend down the coil tower as much as poss. Generous application of dielectric grease inside the boots at both ends.

Idle speed control. In the areas you get undershoot the idle speed control is in speed lockout, so increasing the base position would not be removed by E-throttle CL ISC until after ISC status becomes active. From that last log it is starting to look more like a fuel issue, the oscillation at 13:30 and after 22:30 seems to be linked to the oscillating lambda, the throttle is nearly dead still. Can you try the 3 changes below separately to see if either makes a difference: Zero out the SPWA table. Make the lambda target around idle something like 0.87. Put 10 right across the idle ign table.

What ecu CAN port is the dash wired to? You have both CAN1 and 2 set up with a MXS stream.

That all looks good to me. Nothing is leaping out at me yet. Can you attach a copy of your current tune.

I would set up a new blank page in PC Link with a big digital gauge displaying AN Temp 3 raw voltage, sit the laptop somewhere you can see it then go around the loom and bend/wiggle/yank/stretch anything to do with the oil temp wiring - including where there may be ground splices and especially around the sensor connector and terminals etc. That will usually find if there is a bad connection anywhere. If that doesnt find anything then I would probably look at swapping the sensor next.

Closed loop is not active in any of your undershoot examples.

The most common push/pull type I see used are Texense or KA Sensors. Texense have a few variations with male or female threads and analog/digital output etc. https://www.texense.com/en/products/pro-motorsport-sensors-1-1/gear-shift-devices-16/ https://www.kasensors.com/en/products/gear-shift

The CLL is not pulling much out in that area now so I dont think that is the remaining problem now. Im a bit unsure if the lean spike is now a cause or a symptom of the idle undershoot. What happens if you add say an extra 0.25-0.5% to the base position table for that temp?

That will need a custom stream added. If you attach a copy of your tune and dash config I can set it up.

In G4+ from memory only Aux 1-8 can do open or closed loop PWM FP speed. Aux 9-16 and inj/ign drives can only do x-over mode.

It still looks like a wiring issue to me. Can you unplug the OBDlink from the OBD2 socket and measure the voltage between pin 5&6 and between pin 5&14 (with ECU on). Then, with ecu off can you measure resistance between pin 6&14.

No, the TGV input is an analog input, you need a digital input for an ethanol sensor. You can connect the sensor directly to any DI without any need for any extra box.

I have moved your post to the G4+ section. Please attach a copy of your tune and a log showing the problem.

Im pretty sure the USDM cars changed to the Hitachi pinout in 2011, which is completely different to our ECU. It will likely be more than just the power wires that are different so it isnt really suitable.

This is just a common "LS2 truck coil". In most cases the grounding on these coils is not too fussy and you can just ground both A and B to the same point on the cylinder head. However to give a more complete explanation, I will add this info: Pin A provides the high current ground for the primary side of the coil as well as the return for the spark to the secondary coil. So it is important that this is connected to the same cylinder head that the spark plug is sparking in and the wire is of adequate size to pass the current. Pin B is a low current ground reference for the ignitor circuit, the original intent is that this pin should be connected to the same ground that the ecu ignition drive connects to when active, so that the coil signal wire sees the same voltage the ecu is outputting. In the Link ecu this is the main ECU ground. The ECU is typically grounded to the engine anyhow so this is often the same location as pin A.

Both the crank and cam sensors are wired incorrect polarity, you need to swap the +/- wires at the sensor plugs.

Your problem now is now just tuning. Your log shows you need 21.4% idle position to idle at the target speed, however your base position is 25% and you also have a dashpot offset of 5%, so as soon as you touch the throttle the idle vale opens to 30% which is too far open to allow the RPM to drop back under the lockout. Set the dashpot to zero initially, follow the instructions in the help file to tune the base position, then experiment with the dashpot if you have undershoot entering idle conditions.