Adamw

Cam level sync should work fine with this engine provided the inlet cam can only move in the advance direction. Your log "EngineRun But No Stable RPM ROC" looks ok to me, no sign of trigger problems in that. Can you confirm, if the "set base timing" screen is open is the timing stable? Does the timing mark stay aligned if you rev the engine higher - to say 4000RPM?

Ok, I will send you a PM.

What ecu do you have?

I dont see how a dyno will help, the limitation is generally the tyre to road interface - ie how much grip you have, this varies with road surface and environmental conditions. What I was trying to explain about gear ratio being a torque multiplier may be clearer with a basic example. Lets say your engine makes a max of 100Nm, in top gear with a 1:1 ratio and say a 3:1 diff ratio, you will have 300Nm at the wheel. In contrast say 1st gear is 3:1 ratio, then you will have 900Nm at the wheel in first gear. How much you need to reduce torque by in lower gears to maintain maximum acceleration with adequate control is really only determinable by experimentation, it will vary a lot with conditions, but generally a compromise can be found that makes the car easier to drive in a wide range of conditions.

Fuel cut is done for fuel economy and emissions reasons, not for engine braking. The largest factors are generally throttle opening and valve timing, for maximum braking effect you effectively want maximum pumping losses. If you are not cutting fuel then you can also vary braking effect with spark timing. Over-run fuel cut should not have a significant impact on throttle response when tuned correctly, all OEM's for the last 30years have used it.

Not quite sure what you mean by this, all cam control functionality is adjustable including target, PID, solenoid control, trigger patterns etc. Aux 1 is a high side drive output on this ecu, there is a driver on the adapter board that converts the native lowside drive to high side. the aux 1 active state setting in the software should be set to low as per the base map. Attach a short log and a copy of your map.

You can use the MeatPi for CAN/wifi connection to realdash. OBD2 version: https://mou.sr/43TkD5q wired version: https://mou.sr/43NFY0B

You can do boost by speed or gear. Boost by gear would be preferable since you have a driven wheel speed sensor. The maximum engine torque that the tyre can transmit is directly proportional to gear ratio as that is a torque multiplier, so gear makes the most sense for most applications. With boost by speed the typical strategy is to increase boost at higher speeds, but the problem with using driven wheel speed for this is if you get wheel spin the ecu will increase boost which will make it worse. Non-driven wheel speed is better for boost by speed.

Can you clarify what you are trying to achieve? When we talk about engine braking control in a race car or motorcycle it is usually to prevent wheel slip during downshifts, that doesnt sound like what you are querying here?

Set up instructions for the egt device are in the help file page: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information

Can you make that question clearer. Do you have a grey plug ecu but blue plug engine loom or the opposite? The pinout for all our plug-ins are in the help file.

I looked at this a bit closer today, there is not a lot of solid info around for the F20C temp sensor, but im pretty sure from the few clues I found it should use the "Honda K20" calibration. Our base map is set to "Std Bosch NTC" which I assume is what you are using. The car that our S2000 basemap came from was pretty modified so it possibly didnt have the factory temp sensor in it. The reported temp will be about 5degC too high if using the bosch calibration with the honda sensor so that may be what you are seeing.

If you attach the ecu and pdm configs I will set up a couple of examples.

If you attach the ecu and pdm configs I will set up a couple of examples for you.

Updated files attached. Virtual aux 8 in the ecu now controls the "Fury B power" pdm pin. In the ecu it is set to test mode so it is just on all the time. If you do upgrade to e-throttle in future just change virtual aux 8 function to E-throttle relay. 20BRX7 V1.3.pclr 20BRX7 V1.3.pdmc

Set the analog input function to Lambda 1, set the calibration to Innovate LC1.

It doesnt matter if it moves. I dont know how to make it any clearer, there is no advantage or need for 2 cam sensors.

This is why I asked what controller you had in my first post. For the OEM subaru pump controller you need to use 80Hz, and it only has 3 speeds. Set up below from our V10 base map, this mimics the factory control.

Then no, there is no advantage or need for 2 cam sensors, just the 3 tooth wheel that moves with the cam lobes. The ecu references the first tooth after the missing teeth gap on the crank wheel to determine crank position, from here it can work out engine phase because it will see 2 cam teeth in the first 360 crank rotation and only 1 cam tooth in the 2nd 360deg.

Yeah they are meant to be perpendicular. If you have foreign objects flying through your boost pipe you probably have bigger problems to worry about than damage to the temp sensor .

I assume that would be a roller vane type pump since it looks like a 044 copy, in my experience they dont work particularly well with speed control, the pressure tends to get very "pulsey". Frequency will depend what your SSR or controller wants, but most commonly 100-200Hz.

I havent personally seen one fail in that way. I have seen some users on FB etc report them developing leaks when used with coolant but I have never seen one fail personally. How are you testing it? Is it reading correct at zero pressure?

You've still got a trigger issue but it wasn't captured in your original trigger scope. Can you do a few trigger scope captures next time the idle starts to go all erratic, hopefully one will catch the issue. Have you checked rotor phasing in this engine before? Turn the engine by hand to 5ATDC and check that the rotor is still just in contact with the post in the cap, similar to the pic below.

What fuel pump and controller?

The "R8" coils fit those engines quite well so would be a reasonably cost effective option. I cant say for sure whether the coil cover will fit on. Search 0221604800 (bosch) or 48728 (NGK) on something like rockauto, you should be able to get them for about 20-25USD each and those are both reliable coil brands. If you wanted to stick with the stock coils and use an external ignitor then the 2JZ ignitor isn't very good so avoid that one. The haltech ones are quite good but way too expensive. Most common would be 2 x 3 channel such as Bosch 0227100203 - avoid the generic unbranded ones, stick to Bremi, Bosch, Huco (Hitatchi). Try IGC8403 on rockauto.