Adamw

Did you calibrate the throttle position sensors after changing the throttle?

100% in the blend table means its using 100% of table 2. Your log shows the correct duty cycle is being commanded. For the gear detection there are instructions in the help file for the automated calibration. The other option is just log a drive around the block through all gears then enter the recorded ratio for each gear in user defined mode. Your attached log doesnt have much data for 1st or 2nd gear to be confident I have it right but it looks like it would probably be something like this:

Your terminating resistor should be at the device that is furthest away from the ecu in terms of wire length.

Turn on individual cyl correction. You can either do a single value for each rotor or a table for each rotor.

There is definitely something backwards somewhere. You will need to swap pin 1 & 4 at the throttle plug.

Your user stream 1 is set up wrong - ethanol% should only be 8bits wide. However, I suggest instead of fixing that, just change your channel 2 to "Link CAN Gauge Extra" with ID 49, then you will get all the new channels

Use the most recent, they update them occasionally.

https://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000074340-link-engine-management

Attach a copy of your tune.

There is something up with your MAP sensor also, it takes 2 seconds to creep back to atmosphere after the engine has stopped.

Leave the tee out for now if it is not being used then the CAN lambda alone will be ok without termination.

Ok, that log shows the ecu is not receiving power from the E-throttle relay. A quick explanation of the circuit diagram below to help you diagnose. The ECU is shown as the rectangle at the bottom left. The ECU grounds pin 104 when it wants to enable the throttle, this should cause the e-throttle relay contacts to close which will send 12V straight from the battery/fuse at the top into pin 3 on the ecu at the bottom. Your log shows you only have 4V on ECU pin 3 (should be battery voltage), I would start by checking fuse 87. If that looks ok then it could be the relay or something deeper in the IPDM.

Unlikely if thats all that happened, the 5V output is designed to take reverse battery and +60V load dump. But your volt meter will confirm whether the 5V output is correct or not. You can contact tech support if you really wish for the ecu to be inspected, but as yet I haven't seen anything in your logs or descriptions that suggests there may be anything wrong with it. If the 5V regulator or a sensor ground etc was damaged then MAP, BAP, temps etc would all read wrong too, not just the fuel press. Testing an ecu to find a "could be anything" issue with no suspicious IO or other clues could soak up many hours of a technicians time, which will likely be chargeable if nothing is found or if something is found that was caused by user error. So my suggestion is to eliminate as much as you can before exploring that option. It is a whole lot easier to find an issue when the ecu is still connected to the car, sensors and other systems that allow it to exhibit the issue.

Assuming the sensor supply is 5V and the voltage displayed in PC link matches what a voltmeter shows, then I dont see how the ecu could make the sensor output the incorrect voltage for the applied pressure.

There is no native AC evap temp control in the V series. If you had a spare aux output and digital input you could do a crude hack by connecting a aux directly to a DI and setting up a GP output to turn the AC request DI on/off based on pressure.

Attach a copy of your tune.

Motor wired backwards maybe? Attach a copy of your tune and a log.

It is nothing to do with fuel or cold start enrichment. You have a 100% ignition cut because you have enabled a MAP limit which is set lower than atmospheric pressure.

You can check the sensor voltage matches what the ecu says with a volt meter. I dont see any clues that suggest anything is wrong with the ecu so far.

The ecu is commanding the same PW so assuming the injectors have the correct voltage and same fuel pressure then you should have the same quantity of fuel injected. Did you ever confirm the old fuel pressure sensor that was fitted for the original tune was reading correct?

The ecu has an aux output that generates the tacho signal, this goes to the tacho in the dash and the dccd ecu. The APS signal is tee'd into the APS signal wire somewhere before the ecu.

Any of those are fine. The white seeed studio one is probably the most common and easy to use.

Whats the actual voltage on the analog input? I suspect since you only have 0.1V difference between positions 0 & 1 you will have some interpolation going on. I think you could either use GP Analog <1 for the GP output condition, or change the 0.00V breakpoint in your cal table to 0.03V or something just above the voltage it shows in pos 0.

Have you tried the Switft V2 VTC trigger mode and VVT mode?

Ok these logs arent much use as it has already errored before the log starts. I assumed the error was happening randomly while driving which is why I suggested an ecu log to capture it. Can you try this instead: Turn on ignition, connect PC Link to ecu. At the top right of your screen, click on the text "PC Log = off", to start a PC log, it should turn green. Go to e-throttle settings and change the Ethrottle mode to setup. Move the throttle pedal a few times. Change E-throttle mode back to "ON", move the throttle pedal a few times. Click on the "PC Log = record" again to stop the log. Go to >logging>save log file as, and save the log. Attach that log here and a copy of your map.