Adamw

Lambda 2 needs transmit on ID951. Don’t change the ID setting in the ecu, reprogram the spartan to use ID 951

It is closing the throttle trying to bring the RPM down when you are in overrun. Reduce the speed lockout to 10kmh, and reduce the RPM lockout to 500RPM will likely solve most of it. Yeah pretty much, yours is possibly a little more than usual. 1.0 for the idle ign proportional gain and 0.0 for the derivative would be what I normally start with so try dropping those.

I have the firmware and programming software for the 4 or 8 button keypads, I dont currently have it for the 12 button but can probably get it. But you will need a Peak or Kvaser CAN tool to do the programming. Otherwise you can order one pre-programed direct from blink.

Your throttle tracking looks ok to me but your target looks pretty tame, that could possibly make it feel pretty lazy. For example at the time mark -3:12 in your pic above we cant see the actual APS as it is off the screen, but the axis goes to 23% so we can say you have more than 23% pedal commanded, but your TPS target is only 12.5%.

Pull the lid off, check if there are any blue LED's on, there should be if it is powered up. If not I would power up outside of the car as Derek suggests as this is a quick and easy way to verify if it is the ecu or wiring. More likely to be a wiring issue as the ecu's are pretty forgiving and have a lot of protection. The easiest way to power up on the bench is to connect 12V to the striped end of the big TVS diode and gnd to the other end. If the ecu doesnt power up like this then contact [email protected] to get it inspected, it does have a lifetime warranty.

Yes, if fuel equation load source is set to MAP then MAP is effectively a multiplier. Multiply PW by 0 MAP = 0PW.

Make sure Lambda 1 sensor control is set to Link CAN - or CAN AN Volt 1 if you are using that rather than the Lambda 1 runtime.

Yeah, MAP sensor not working is the main issue. This means there is no fuel being injected so you will only get a tiny bit of fuel from the pre-crank prime. As far as I know the MAP sensor pin doesn't vary on the ST185 and all cars the ecu fits should have one so it may suggest a wiring issue or dead sensor. Also, the map you attached doesnt match the data shown in the log so it would be more helpful to attach the actual log from your ecu. I would also suggest you put the master fuel back to 14ms for a closer starting point for 1000cc injectors.

As others have said you need to attach some data, there are too many possibilities to even bother having a guess. Not really relevant to your problem, but just a FYI, WB stoich mode will target whatever AFR is in your target table and is not confined to low load or cruise, you can use it all the way to WOT if you wish. It is just a more basic strategy with a dither function so it can be used with a catalytic converter and is therefore slower to correct also.

You can also increase your filtering on trig 1 & 2 to level 3. If the arming threshold and filtering adjustment doesnt help, try doing a bunch more scope captures around the rpm or whatever that it normally occurs at to see if we can get any more obvious clues captured.

I can only guess without seeing the config, but I would say the 2 wastegate tables are probably set up in interpolate mode so the DC tables and the target tables are blended based on ethanol content. But if those DC tables already have boost target on one axis then there is no blending needed, both tables could be the same.

I guess it depends on the context. Control loop tuning is always a balance between response time, stability and overshoot. If you want no overshoot then you need a slower approach. A short 1psi overshoot would be acceptable to most users and pretty typical in my experience, however I also know of club-level racing classes over here where you have something like a 18psi limit and you are only allowed to exceed that for a total of 2 secs per race from memory, so in that situation, 1 psi overshoot may not be the ideal compromise.

For the cam and crank sensor these need to be connected to trigger 1 and trigger 2 inputs. These are both available either at the main ecu header (check the pinout in the manual) or at the original CAS plug. Most commonly you would just cut the original CAS plug off the loom and run 2 new shielded wires from there to the new cam and crank sensors. Yes you will need to set the ecu up with the correct trigger settings for the new trigger system. Doesnt the CA18 have a factory IAT sensor? If not the expansion loom may be easier for the IAT. The MAF loom only have a AN Volt input from memory so cant be used directly for a temp sensor. Knock control wiring is easy, set up any tuning is probably best left for someone experienced. Yes. The Analog wideband can go into the narrowband o2 input yes. Note Innovate doesnt have an analog ground so make sure the black wire is connected to the engine block for best chance of success. You wont be able to connect the oil press/temp sensors to the ecu - the innovate does something really weird with measuring those sensors - they only have a single analog to digital converter for reading the two sensors, it constantly swaps back and forwards between the two sensors and turns a pull-up on/off everytime it does that so the ecu will see all this weird behaviour.

Frequency is your main issue. Try 6, 7 & 8 KHz to find one that gives a less erratic noise trend then make it knock to make sure it is detected. Of course if you went as far as reducing all the way to 0 knock window length you would never capture anything, but I said to set it to start 20after ign with a 50 length which is right where knock is going to occur. Right now with your ignition timing at 10deg BTDC and your knock window start at 10deg after Ign it means you are listening right on TDC which is where the piston changes direction and slaps across to the opposite cyl wall. Microphone circuits are very sensitive to impedance and capacitance. Just unplugging one sensor only removes the impedance, you still have the cable connected which is effectively a big capacitor and with nothing connected at its end probably a nice noise pick-up antenna too. 2 in parallel may work fine, I have never tried, but personally I would stick to the proven single sensor connected to a single input rather than trying to reinvent the wheel and introducing unknowns.

Ok the scope looks ok I think. Go to >idle speed control>idle speed control setup and change the MAP lockout to 75Kpa, the should solve the idle bouncing on/off. For the master fuel just adjust it up or down until it sounds like it is running the best. If you go it one direction and it sounds worse then go the other way.

Can you attach a PC Log (from PC Link). Your map shows 128 transmit errors on CAN 2 and bus passive error when it was last saved, it will disable the bus once it gets to 248 transmit errors. Resetting the ecu or clicking apply in the CAN set up screen will reset the CAN controller which resets the transmit error counter so that's why it starts working again. The question is, why is the device not acknowledging the transmits? Do you have a terminating resistor wired?

Trigger 2 Sync mode set to cam level will work well for this cam/crank combo. If it doesnt start after you change that setting then change the trigger offset to 255 (ie 360 deg later).

Can you attach a copy of your map and attach a short PC log of the OBD2 connection failing.

Yes that would be no drama

I dont know enough about audio circuits to know if two sensors paralleled into a single input is acceptable practice or not. The gain is effectively just a volume knob on your amplifier so it wont affect the trend you are seeing. Most likely you are seeing more mechanical noise due to incorrect frequency. I would also increase your window start to 20deg and length to 50 get some further noise out. Oh, and as Rosso says, the cyl gains would usually need adjustment to balance the cyl levels also.

To do variable speed you will need a solidstate relay as Derek suggested. More commonly they just pulse them on/off at different intervals which only requires a standard relay. I have no idea how much current the various davis craig pumps use so dont have any suggestions for the relay. There are also the Pierburg ones some of which have the solid state controller for PWM input built-in. From a thermodynamics perspective the water flow rate has no influence on the heat transfer so you will likely see little difference either way - as long as there is flow.

The reason I keep insisting on a resistance measurement is there are 3 sources of error at play depending on how these "S2000 guys" are concluding there is a coolant temperature problem: The scaling of the gauge on the dash is user configurable in our ECU, in our base map it is setup quite different to the factory ecu to give better resolution over the temp range that most users would be interested in. It will appear hotter in many cases as the factory ecu scaling displays "3 bars" all the way from 160F to 234F. From memory ours would be displaying 6 bars at 234. The fan temp activation temp and hysteresis is probably different to the factory ecu. The un-confirmed temp sensor calibration. So it would be nice to confirm what colour sensor your car has and its resistance as some known temp.

Here is an example. I have a GP output that will become true when the both the brake has been active and the TPS has been > 60% for 5seconds. The 3rd condition "OR virt aux 8 = active" is used to latch it on once conditions are met (ie you dont want it to return to false/off as soon as you take your foot off the brake). The catch with this logic is it works backwards compared to what we what - we actually want to turn off antitheft after 5 sec, not turn it on. And I couldn't see a nice way to do that in the GP output - possibly I just need more coffee to see it. So anyhow I used a mathblock to invert the logic, then we use that mathblock to turn the antitheft function on/off: There are many ways you can do stuff like this, often it is hard to think through all of the logic in your head prior to setting it up, so I find it easier to sit in the car, set up a blank page in PC link displaying the parameters and statuses you are working with and work through one step of the logic at a time. An example below to hopefully answer both of your questions, or at least give some direction. Lets say I want the CE Light to flash fast when the Antitheft is active, and switch over to normal CE light functionality once antitheft is off. First I need to generate the flash. We can use a GP output on delay/off delay to achieve this. This GP output will make virtual aux 1 flash on/off when the antitheft status is active: CE Light output is assigned to a virtual aux rather than the real output that is connected to the lamp: Now we need some logic to switch between our lamp acting on the antitheft flash virtual aux or the CE Light virtual aux. I really needed more conditions than a GP output can do so I used a math block to achieve this. The equation (a&c)|(b&!c) means the math book will be true when (a AND c are true) ie antitheft is active and the flash is in the "on" period), OR (b is true and c is not true), ie CE light is on and antitheft is not. The result of this math block will be a 1 when we want the dash lamp on and a 0 when the dash light should be off: Now we can control the dash lamp that is connected to aux 3 using the result of math block:

That is the problem with the Innovate product, there is no dedicated analog ground. Connect the innovate black wire to the engine block will give the best result, but you will likely still have odd behaviour such as the AFR will change when you turn the head lights on etc.

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