Adamw

I would probably start by checking the calibration of the ECT sensor. You could do this either by removing it and dropping it in a jug of boiling water and confirm ecu shows near 100C. Or you could run the engine with the stock ecu until it is hot, check OBD2 temp, switch off then unplug sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor. Then put the Link ecu in run it until PC link shows the same temp as what you had before, then check the resistance of the sensor again. If the calibration in Link is the same as the factory ecu I would expect resistance to be within a couple of ohms when the engine is at the same temp. The only other thing that would effect coolant temp while driving is tune related such as being too retarded or very lean, the fan control will have little effect when moving above about 10mph.

The ECU does not receive fuel level.

Im not sure what you wanted for "engine kill" so I haven't done that, but the rest of the stuff from ECU to PDM is set up. No PDM to ECU yet as I dont know what you want. When you open up this PDM config, it will state that it contains a layout and ask if you want to load it, choose yes so you see my notes etc. RX7 New Loom V1.1.pclr 20BRX7 V1.pdmc

I would stick with hex head bolts. With a reluctor sensor the ecu uses the zero crossing as the trigger point which is actually the center of the tooth mass so the orientation of the hex flats will have very little influence on the zero crossing point. With a cap screw or Philips etc the hole in the middle will cause a double bump in the waveform. For the missing tooth, have it pass the sensor somewhere around 90deg before or after TDC will be good.

Most ABS sensors from the era of this car would be a magneto resistive type. They can be quite tricky to make them output suitable voltages as they actually work by switching between 2 different current levels rather than high/low voltage levels. You need to experiment with a range of supply voltages and pull-up/pull-down resistor values. You need to achieve something more than about 2V when high and less than about 1V low. Have a read of this doc for a bit of guidance: https://www.motec.com.au/filedownload.php/CTN0007 Magneto Resistive Sensors.pdf?docid=3634

It will be best to share them with onedrive, google drive, dropbox, wetransfer or similar and paste a link here. Google "how to share a file with ***" if you cant figure it out.

I dont think a disconnection would cause the lambda not to work though, I think it would have had to be connected in reverse to cause a "bus off" error.

If your car has cruise control you could set up something like "hold the set button and brake pedal together for more than 5 seconds" to disarm the antitheft, if it doesn't have cruise you could do something like throttle pedal >50% and brake pedal together for more than *sec. I would also set up something like the CE light to flash when antitheft is active so you know when you have successfully met the conditions.

It sounds like a wiring issue - like CAN L/H are swapped or something. Do you have the same DTM 4 connector for both? Does the same thing happen if you plug the oil press gauge into the lambda plug? What CAN errors are showing in the runtimes?

Yes, you can connect it via CAN bus (most accurate) or using an analog input such as pin 56.

The image from Powertunes document "Link Analog input setup" below shows Fuel level on frame ID 2 with start bit 55 which is different to what you are using. I dont know if these are user definable in the dash. Can you show us how you have these custom channels set up in the dash?

I think the ID for oil press should be 656135

I think the fact the 150A breaker trips sometimes suggests there is a vert serious short somewhere. In the occurrences where the breaker doesnt trip, the short is probably just dropping the ecu voltage enough to cause the eccs relay to drop out. There is nothing ecu or engine control related that would have wires big enough to trip a 150A breaker (the wires would catch fire first) so I would be looking more at the larger circuits such as alternator/starter/battery cables, etc.

There is no CO2 or dome pressure boost control type function in the G4+ range, this was only more recently added to G4X. In G4+ the boost control function always references MAP.

Resolution will be no problem. For the frequency divider I dont know of a good commercially available option - there are things like "speedo correctors" etc but they tend to be expensive for such a basic requirement. I usually suggest this: Note there is a mistake on that drawing, it should say this circuit will divide by 8, not 16.

Yes, I would say this is likely, you have 23deg around the idle area of your main ignition table that dips to 12deg deg when you initially open the throttle. The lambda is not working in that log though so I cant say it is only due to ignition.

Your AFR target 2 would be the target if you were running whatever fuel that you have set up as 100% multifuel blend. So say for example E85 was the highest eth content you would ever run, then your multifuel blend table would be set up[ with 100% for 85% ethanol. This means when you are running E85 you will be using 100% of the multifuel properties (Density, stoich, AFR target 2 etc), and there would be no influence from the main fuel properties & AFR target 1. In your log you are running 66% ethanol content, which based on the way your multifuel blend table is set up you are using a blend of 61%. This means 61% of your fuel calculation is coming from the multifuel properties/Fuel table 2 & AFR table 2, 39% is still coming from the primary fuel/fuel table 1/AFR target 1.

No log attached.

Do you mean the AEM one? There are instructions in the help file and CAN templates for it in PC Link so it is straight forward.

The stock O2 sensors are narrowband so not much use to you unless you have a catalytic converter and have some emissions regulations to meet. But if you want to use them then you can connect the 2nd one to any spare analog input. If you want dual bank closed loop then I would suggest 2 CAN based wideband lambda devices.

It most likely would be compatible but I have requested CAN info from Fueltech for other CAN devices in the past and they haven't been willing to provide it. I suggest you try requesting the CAN info yourself as perhaps as a pre-sale question they might be more responsive. PCS make the 8 channel one for Fueltech which is available direct from PCS for not much more than your pic shows for the 4Ch device, otherwise the ECUmaster, Haltech, DIY autotune, are other common options which we already support.

I would suggest the pneumatic ALV with a conventional solenoid to control it, you would need to add further electronics to control the electronic one and I dont see any benefit. You can use any spare aux for the mac solenoid, aux 8 on pin 40 is probably a good option. The G4+ isn't well suited for turbospeed sensors as the DI max frequency is around 1000Hz - turbospeed is usually more like 3000Hz. You would need to add a frequency divider circuit in line.

There is also AN Volt 3 on Pin 13 that can be re-purposed, originally the narrowband O2 signal.

It is not available for external use, this output controls some internal electronics which disconnect all the aux output flywheeling diodes from the main power supply when the ignition switch is off. This helps prevent the possibility of back feeds in future when users start to mess with the wiring.

Really that device is not particularly useful as the ecu has much better boost control built in and it can read the ethanol sensor directly. Only the wideband AFR will be used. Make sure the innovate Black ground wire is connected directly to the engine block (not a random chassis ground). You can connect the yellow wideband signal wire to AN Volt 8 on Pin 70 or AN Volt 9 on Pin 69. For the flex fuel I suggest you share the sensor signal with the ecu and gauge, splice into the sensor white wire and connect to DI8 (pin 67) on the ecu (do not use the innovate brown wire analog output):