Adamw

Dont the R33 gear boxes already have an electronic speedo sensor on them?

What trigger mode are you using? Some variations of the 58X engines can have the cam sensor in rotated about 90 deg. The Chev LS2/LS7 (90 offset) mode should work for yours.

What gearbox do you have? There are a few aftermarket electronic pickups that screw onto a speedo cable drive if you have one. Otherwise, a hall sensor picking up of the back of the wheel studs or bolts on the driveshaft flange (diff pinion) is often an easy option.

Trigger looks ok. My instruction is correct as far as I can see. We want to move the sensor ground wire from position 23 and connect it to sensor ground pin which is pin 39. We then want to move the fp speed wire from position 39 to aux 7 which is pin 23. BAP should be set to "Internal". MAP is most likely on pin 42/AN Volt 3. If that doesnt work it could be pin 37/AN Volt 4.

Ok, I think it will have to come back to NZ for repair in that case, it sounds like something must be damaged. Contact [email protected] to arrange.

I have absolutely no experience with Mac but I do know of others using parallels or bootcamp with G4+ ok. Can you give us a screenshot of the hardware ID's like below. To get to this right click on the Link device in device manager, then go to properties>details>hardware ID's.

Im not too sure what you mean by "but the ECU won start". So the Blue LED lights up but do you mean the laptop wont connect to the ECU now? Or just the engine wont start?

I just updated the excel file above to correct that mistake and a couple of others I noticed.

My understanding is they are generally happy to if the ecu is still unlocked and sealed in the antistatic bag but that sounds like it is not the case here. In this case it is a decision that would be made by our sales team, probably depending on the conditions that resulted in the incorrect ecu being sold amongst other considerations. Your dealer really needs to contact his regional sales office to discuss. You can only swap functions amongst pins with a a similar functionality. For instance if a MAP sensor is connected to AN Volt 1 instead of AN Volt 4 you can just change that in the software. But if a ground wire is connected to a pin that is meant to have the trigger signal on it then that cant be changed via software.

It sounds like possibly the secondary injectors have either a different flow rate, different dead times, or different pressure than the primaries. I would start with a simple test to confirm the Sec/Pri flow ratio is correct. The way I normally do this is fill the secondary staging table with zeros (this means all fuel injected by primaries), hold the engine at medium RPM, medium load (say 3000RPM, 50% throttle) and take note of lambda, then highlight the whole staging table and change it to 100% (this means all fuel is now coming from secondaries), if the flow ratio is correct then the lambda will be the same regardless if the fuel is coming from primary or sec. If the lambda changes then adjust your Sec/Pri flow ratio a little and test again until it is stable. A little lean or rich spike is fine when you switch over but it should stabalise to the same lambda after a second or two.

If we are talking about a S13 or S15 plug-in, then no it still cant operate DBW directly out of the box. The G4+ plug-in does actually have the hardware onboard but the SR20 plug-ins dont have the nesecary Aux 9/10 pins connected. So you have a further option with the G4+: An external E-throttle module as has been discussed above already. Return the ECU to Link and it can be hand modified with a couple of flying leads added to make Aux 9/10 available for direct connection to a DBW throttle. You will have to email tech support to get a price to do that as Im a bit out of touch, it used to work out just a little cheaper than the external module.

Any on/off type signal like a switch/button - high/low boost, launch control, rolling anti lag etc as examples. Or any frequency/pulse type signal like a wheel speed, turbo speed, driveshaft speed, flex fuel sensor, etc.

Isnt the engine stalled and is being cranked in that area? I dont think it would actually be running at the 100-200RPM it shows before and after that RPM spike. Battery voltage drops because the starter motor is working.

The Evo 1 should have a factory wastegate solenoid, most users just connect the new solenoid in place of the original. The original is connected to Aux 4. If your original wiring is gone, then pin 40 is Aux 4. Connect one solenoid wire to switched +12V and the other solenoid wire to Aux 4.

Have PM'd you instructions

The module can drive any throttle.

I just knocked this up. Hopefully easy enough to understand, Red cells are the wires that need to be moved, about 14 or so wires to move. Green ones can all stay where they are. A couple of changes will need to be made in the map, I didnt note them down, but for example fuel pump relay will now be controlled by Inj 5 instead of Aux 7. ST205 loom toST185 ecu V1.1.xlsx

The analog voltage is not monitored/measured. The on/off status of ignition outputs when they are doing ignition is not something you can see as they are synchronously controlled by the engine time processor.

All G3's and early G4's will need the CAN mod for CAN to work.

I'll will try to put together some instructions on what you will need to move in the next couple of days when I have some free time. Just using the ST205 map is not going to help much as the trigger wires and grounds arent connected to the correct pins.

What function is on the ignition drive? Some functions are active all the time and just duty or frequency will vary. Example below would be the parameter that shows ign 5 turning on/off for engine fan 3

I think the problem with the tigger is the missing tooth occurs right on TDC when the crank slows down due to compression. So it will mostly be a problem during start-up, once the engine is running reasonable I would expect it will probably be happier. It looks like you need larger numbers in the top row of your E-throttle target table, change accel fuel to TPS, richen the mixture a bit.

That pinout you show matches the ST205 pinout, not the normal ST185 ecu. It is only normally only found on the carlos sainz version of the ST185. So you will either need to swap the ecu to a TST205X ecu, or shuffle some wires around to match the normal ST185 pinout.

Yes, but to enable CAN on the G3 it will need a small hardware mod. It will either need to come back to NZ, or if you know someone that is capable with surface mount electronics I can give you instructions.

Something like below should be in the ballpark