Adamw

I have no idea what the trigger offset is sorry, you need to confirm that with a timing light. The MX5 VVT mode is not suitable, the MX5 only has 4 teeth on the crankshaft, yours has 36-2-2-2

If it is only a problem when running then it suggests an EMI issue. Most commonly ignition system related. Check through the following list:

1 deg is Trig 1, 120 deg is trig 2. Most of the early Nissans with matched the pinout below.

Does it only fail when the engine is running or will it also not store without engine running? Do you have anything connected to the round CAN port?

The CANDASH cable is the problem, despite its name it is actually designed for our old Displaylink dash which used both serial and CAN. So it has wires connected to the serial pins inside. No, you need to unplug the cable from the ECU. It is the cable causing the problem, not the dash. The other thing you can do to solve the problem if you dont want to unplug the cable everytime you want to connect a laptop is to snip the brown and yellow wires on the CANPCB inside the ecu case. Only the white and green are used. It is the brown and yellow causing the issue.

Yes, that looks like a match for Mazda 3vtc trigger mode.

Unplug the dash cable from the CAN port on the ecu, it sounds like you have the wrong type of cable connected which also has wires connected to the rs232 pins.

You have got the Sw cond 1 set to Virtual Aux 5 = ON. But your Virtual aux 5 is off so your GP PWM will be off. Since your lift pump is on Injector drive 5, your Sw Cond 1 should instead be set to "Aux Fuel Value1= ON", 5.

If the CDI is definitely set to rising edge input then your spark edge is correct. But it would pay to check as the M&W's come set to falling by default. Selecting the wrong edge with CDI wont fry the coil - you will just have lots of timing drift, so unlikely your problem. CDI's can give a pretty shitty idle though, so that alone may be some of your problem.

I would definitely zero out the wall wetting comp for a start, Im not sure if that code is locked out at start-up or not but if not it definitely has potential to cause highly variable injector PW so I would take that out of the equation.

Load your map in.

You are on old firmware. Update the firmware and you will have 45.

Have you got a dash or other CAN or serial device plugged into the CAN port?

The traction disable needs to be a hardwired input in G4+. If you have a spare DI and aux output you can connect them together with a small bridge wire like pic below and use the aux to turn traction on/off.

As remski mentioned that spark edge is wrong, that has potentially fried some coils running like that. That would also make ignition timing wrong so check base timing again after changing the edge. Other things that jump out at me is MAP at idle is 80-85kpa which is very poor vacuum, possibly cam timing wrong?

SXA-01T-P0.6

A18 or D18? We have ign 2 on A18, so it would be best to disconnect that boot loader wire if it is on A18. D18 is labelled "upshift indicator" in our diagrams - I think it may have been a shift light in some type R's. D18 is not connected to anything in our ecu. If you want the "speed limiter" when boot loader is operating like factory then you will have to move that wire to a DI. There is DI6 on the expansion loom or DI3 on pin B9 could be used.

The stock sensor will probably be fine in this case. But if you did want to use the new sensor, just move the wire from the original sensor to the new one and the old one remains disconnected.

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It should be pretty self explanatory the difference between your table and the example I posted. Make you table look like my one as a start.

Your triggerscope is fine at 3000RPM, but in your other post about VVT anything below 1000RPM your cam signal shows an extra tooth. Obviously when cranking on the starter motor the RPM is less than 1000, so the extra tooth is present, this may cause the ecu to sync at the incorrect point. You need to find the cause of the extra tooth and fix it.

I suspect the ecu is syncing on the wrong phase (sparking on exhaust stroke), this is probably due to the same problem that is causing your VVT issue where there is an extra tooth showing on your cam signal at low RPM. I suggest you pull the cam wheel off and look for whatever is causing the extra tooth. There seems like a small bump of metal on the wheel or something.

Not really my thing, but tables I have seen from others that do it are something like this:

It should go to very near 0v when shorted to ground. 2.89v suggests you have a bad connection. Try the paper clip trick I originally suggested.

The image in the manual is looking into the connector on the MAF housing. It should be 5 &6, as far as I can see even evo 1-3 used the same pinout. I only have a Evo 7 manual handy, but tt looks like ground wire should be black and the AN T2 wire is red and blue.