Adamw

Yep E4 & E5 are fine. Try swapping the active edge should solve the temp issue. It should read correctly with just ignition on - just the reading doesnt have any effect on the tune until after the lockout time. Yes, that will be the easiest way out, just ground the YR permanently, switch the pull-up on on the DI. Its hard to tell how the original circuit worked in the factory manual.

The 15% log you attached is different to the one you show above, it is only 9 minutes long and it shows lambda is similarly "richer than target" as your 11% eth log above.

There are a combination of things at play I think. 1. The injectors are really too big and they are designed for P&H drivers so with only ~1.7ms PW at idle they are likely going to be acting fairly erratic. You can see sometimes your idle lambda is ~1.2 before CLL corrects it, other times it is 0.9. You could try bumping up the minimum effective PW setting in the main fuel settings a little at a time until it just sits a little richer at idle - say 0.95ish. That may help it be a little less erratic. 2. Alternator is not working? (batt Voltage only ~12.5V) this will mean injectors are even more erratic. 3. Fan 2 was set at 0 and cutting on/off for some reason which was adding/removing the fan step to the idle valve all the time. I have raised that to 120 and put fan step to 0 so it should solve that. 4. TP needs to be calibrated or fixed, it doesnt return to zero. This will prevent CL idle and idle ign working reliably. I have put large TP lockouts in the attached map but that will cause other drivability issues so best to fix the TP. 5. Most of your logs have idle ignition off, 1 shows it on but it doesnt look like it was set up correctly - it would dip ign timing to zero when idle was already below target. So in the attached map I have re-enabled it and done a basic set-up that works ok for most. 6. I have changed idle to closed loop. Do another log and we will see if this is a good idea or not. 7. I have change idle target lambda to 0.95, as per #1 you may have to tweak the min eff PW so that lambda reliably sits near that by itself without any CLL. It may not be possible with these injectors. 8. Im not quite sure what the purpose of the -10 top row in the 4D fuel table is? That is potentially making your idle lambda more erratic too? Lastly, yes you do have a couple of big trigger errors in one log - it does look like what I would expect from a loose connection so you may have solved it. Give us some trigger scopes if not. newtune idle revision 1.pclr

I will PM you a page from a 76pin S14 manual that should help. The main things you will need to look after is the ECCS relay, ignition coil relay, constant 12V to pin 109 (pin 58 not needed for our ecu) and power to the injectors needs to come direct from ign switch. There is also power supplies at the top left of the diagram for wastegate, fans etc that will need to be duplicated.

Yes you could do all logic in the AIM pdm, or if you want the ecu to do the logic then the workaround in G4+ is to bridge an aux out to a DI like pic below. Your starter button signal can then come in via CAN, it triggers the aux which triggers the DI and then the starter solenoid request can be sent back to PDM via CAN.

There is still no E-throttle 2 relay assigned in that map. Can you go to ECU controls>restore to factory settings, then load in the map attached to this post. This is just your map, except I have added E-throttle relay 2 to aux 15 and I have tested this map in an ECU here so I know it is all working. Can you do another similar log with this map installed. Test map.pclr

I dont see much wrong in your set up. But looking through the few SR20 maps that I have tuned I see wildly varying trigger offsets, so it could potentially be miles off. I have done 2 S14s on G4+, there offset was 230 & 244. I have a S14 with a G4X, that was 315. Then I have a couple of SR20VE's on G4+ and they show -110 & -114. So I'd probably put a timing light on it with fuel disabled and try around 230 to see if you can see any timing marks in your flash.

Full pinout is in the G4X pc link help file. Or in the PDF manual on the NS13X webpage. Are you making the engine harness as well, or do you have most of it and you are only missing the chassis connections?

All the basic settings look like they are in the correct ballpark, can you give us a short log of it running. Leave the injector flow set to the manufacturers value and give it whatever VE it needs to run. Where did that fuel pressure sensor calibration come from?, it doesnt look right since it is reading 66kpa with the engine off. Most pressure sensors start at 0.5V for zero pressure and increase only to 4.5V and rated pressure. Unlikely fuel press would make that much difference but still needs to be correct. Your charge temp table looks fine as a starting point. I would suggest turning off the IAT trim but that is not going to help your situation.

V1.3 bottom board should be fine. Need to see your map. Ensure aux 4 is set to tacho and ensure no other aux, fuel or ign outputs are set to tacho.

0.02V difference is 5deg C or 9 deg F, not 41 deg F. You don’t add the 32F offset when you are calculating a delta temp. And that 0.02V offset is only present when you have nothing connected. If your amp can actually output 0V (doubtful) then the ecu input will read 0V. Any time there is move than 0.02V on the pin it will read correctly. You can confirm with a multimeter if you like. Take note of the pin voltage the ecu is displaying, then unplug amp and check voltage it is outputing with a multimeter. I’m sure you will find they match.

Can you save the map with the settings you used then. Otherwise I have no idea what settings were used to generate the result in the log.

The Find devices tool is only used for re-programming Link CAN lambdas. The set up info for the X series is in the help file (Device specific CAN Information page) and there is a CAN template for it included in the CAN folder on your harddrive.

0.02V is the minimum voltage the analog inputs can detect. With nothing connected they will usually sit at 0.01 or 0.02. If you connect them to ground they should read zero. Obviously this will only affect measurements of temperatures below about 5°C which isnt relevant for an amp that is designed to measure EGT. As for the poor accuracy of the amplifier or thermocouple that is something you will have to discus with the manufacturers of those items. Of course you can fudge the ecu calibration if you want them to display correctly if you have equipment capable of determining the correct calibration.

Both ends are completely user configurable, so you can send any data you want. Ethanol content is already in the standard generic stream.

I dont see much wrong in terms of trigger etc. The dwell scatter you have looks pretty normal for an SR20 using a stock CAS. Your lambda is well controlled so it doesnt appear you have a misfire. A couple of things I noticed: Your RPM limit has a very low exit decay rate, this means it takes a long time to "turn off", that may make it feel very slow after you have hit the limiter. It would be more common to set this to about 30%/20ms. Your ignition timing seems quite low for an SR20.

@aconis I have just realised I made a mistake in that comment, the 1234... firing order I suggested wouldnt work. There are a few different ways that would work fine, but I must have just been lacking concentration when I wrote that. This one would work correctly: 1,12,2,11,3,10,4,9,5,8,6,7. Injector wiring would be same as I originally quoted. I tested this one on the bench to make sure I had it right this time. The old G4 can only do a single E-throttle. G4+ thunder can do 2 E-throttles, or as I mentioned above some of the G4X series will soon be able to do two E-throttles (requires an external driver for one of them).

I've had a quick look over the log. I dont see a whole lot wrong from a set up or ecu perspective, it syncs almost instantly, injector PW's and dwell etc look normal. From little info I have and clues such as the inj PW's being reported it seems like it has quite large injectors so my inkling is still the injectors are possibly some poorly modified things with a horrible spray pattern that results in you having a lot of liquid fuel in the port when temps are low rather than vapor which is necessary for combustion. The only thing that is a bit odd in your tune is the pre-crank prime is turned off so you could try enabling that and see if it helps at all. Otherwise it is going to need to go to a tuner.

Trigger is fine, it just looks like it needs tuning to me. For the idle hang I would suggest reduce the dashpot offset to 0 initially, reduce min clamp to 1.0% and reduce the idle base position to 1.5 or 2% for all temps above 60deg.

This may help, not sure if it is relevant to a pro 7 though: If not the general idea is to set the screen res to some common HD form factor and make sure windows display scaling is set to 100%.

Here is the page that explains it in the help file. Click on it for full size view, or you can view it in PC link. Happy to take suggestions if you think it isnt adequate:

As I just said, it needs to be tuned before you mess around with idle. Your lambda is 0.73 at idle so it is obviously no where near even remotely close to tuned. Idle wont work well until the fuel and ignition is well optimised both in and around idle areas. All the changes you just made to the idle control will completely screw it up but since you have also put the MAP lockout at a value that the engine can never achieve you have effectively just permanently disabled idle control anyhow. I think you either need to stop what you are doing, read the help file, do some learning or training, follow instructions when they are given or get an experienced tuner involved before you break it.

Yes 4bar is fine with an NA engine with G4+.

If it is a variable resistance sensor like 99% of road cars it will work fine with the info above.

What type of laptop is it? Does it have normal USB ports or are you using some type of adapter? Are you using the cable that came with the ecu?