Adamw

That is just the pull-up voltage on the trigger pin.

Yeah, it looks like it has a hardcoded 2sec re-activation delay after lockouts at present. There is no way to work around that from what I can see. I think it would be nice to have more control over that so I will put it forward as a feature request.

Cam signal looks ok in that scope, but no sign of anything at all from the crank. It might pay to try it with 12V.

XAP-05V-1

The 2500rpm with pops and bangs is the throttle system going into safety mode, if it thinks there is a safety issue it shuts off power to the E-throttle (the spring will slightly open it to about 7% throttle) and a rev limit of 1800rpm is activated. Can you attach the tune and a short log of some pedal presses before cranking, then capture a crank/start up as well. It would be nice to capture the fault happening in a log if you can but otherwise just a log of a start up may be enough to see if it is getting close to the error triggers.

You still have no cam signal. But that wont stop it from sparking or from showing RPM so something else is wrong. Can you please do a short log of it cranking and attach that and your map here.

We have included set up info and CAN templates for this device in the next software release that is probably a couple of weeks away. In the mean time here is the info and files: ECUMaster Switchboard V3 Receive Stream 1 Use ID 1600.lcs ECUMaster Switchboard V3 Receive Stream 2 Use ID 1601.lcs ECUMaster Switchboard V3 Transmit Stream 3 Use ID 1603.lcs

Your TDC angles are wrong which means your spark is ~20 retarded on every 2nd cyl. The TDC angles you have set are evenly spaced 72 deg apart which would be an even fire engine - you would need a block with a 72deg vee for this to work. The viper block is a 90deg vee, so when coupled with the shared crank pins that are 72deg evenly spaced you end up with odd firing angles 54 & 90deg apart. TDC points should be as follows:

can you attach a copy of your tune.

Then most likely you have a difference in the settings. Post a log and tune from both ECU's so we can see the difference.

But you said above you changed the cam and crank sprocket. So are you now saying you have a mixture of the two pairs shown above? The pattern on the left is what we call V7-10 and the pattern on the right is what we call V1-6. You cant have a mixture of both - but I doubt it would even run if you did anyway.

That log shows the trigger errors already existed when the logger "reconnected", so those trigger errors happened at some time when you werent logging - probably the last time the engine stopped. It is not uncommon to get errors when the engine is stopped - this is usually due to the expected cam tooth never reaching the sensor before the engine stops. But as you say, provided you arent getting trigger errors when its running you are fine.

If you can put the sensor in a cup of ice water and tell me resistance, and then in a kettle of boiling water do the same and that will give me some idea of the sensor calibration. According to our notes all Hondas prior to the K series used the standard Bosch/Denso calibration. The K20 calibration does both IAT and ECT on most of the later Honda engines up until they started moving to GDI. The "Honda A" calibration is for the late honda GDI engines such as L15B, both IAT & ECT.

If it was from an engine which originally had a Siemens ecu then no. If it had a bosch ecu then probably. Although VANOS wont work if it is a reluctor sensor. Note even with no cam sensor it wont stop it from running - it will just be more difficult to start as sometimes it will sync on the wrong phase and it will spark on exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke. You should have spark now that the crank sensor is set up correctly - even with no cam sensor.

Both pinouts are in the help file, see pic below for navigation. We label them LS1 and LS2/LS7, but my understanding is that is not quite right and it would be more correct to refer to them as 24X/58X. I believe all engines LS engines prior to Jan 2006 used what GM call the "24X" trigger system. This is what we refer to as "LS1". The 24X engines should have black sensors, the crank wheel is a weird 2 row, 24 tooth design and the crank sensor actually has two sensor elements inside that combines the two wheels into a single output. They have a single 360deg long tooth on the cam. Both crank and cam sensors are powered by 12V on these engines. I believe some early LS2's for instance use the 24X trigger which is why I say it is not quite correct for us to call it "LS1 trigger". From Jan 2006 onwards all LS engines used the "58X" trigger system. These engines all have grey sensors as far as I know. They have a more conventional 60-2 wheel on the crank and a 4 tooth wheel on the cam. Link refer to this trigger mode as LS2/LS7, but there may be some late LS1 engines that run this set up. Both crank and cam sensors are powered by 5V on these engines.

The offset would usually be very close to zero on all the common EJ platforms. You rarely see more than +/-5deg manufacturing error so 32 sounds very odd. It is the position of the missing teeth on the crank wheel that determine the offset so it should be reasonably consistent from engine to engine unless there is a crank wheel that has the keyway in a different place but that seems to be unlikely. Please post a trigger scope taken at idle and I will confirm that it looks ok but I think you need to re-check timing. Maybe check the TDC mark on the pulley/front cover as well.

Ok, Crank signal looks good now, but no cam signal. Have you fitted the M50 vanos cam sensor?

That would be correct for the Black 24x sensors. The grey sensors use a different pinout and won't work with the dual row trigger wheel. ECU will work down to about 6.5v, and sensors should work down to at least 8v. Yes, but you would want someone to click the capture button for you while you do that. You only get about a half second long capture once you click the button.

there are 4 wires, 5v, gnd, temp signal, press signal.

The LS1 sensors are 12v. They work with 8v, but I would be doubtful of 5v. Does the Crank sensor have Black or grey plastic housing? Which pin do you have ground and power on at the sensor plug? The 3S cam sensor won't work as it needs to be Hall to work with the long 180deg "tooth".

No I wouldnt assume that, in fact based on my experience I would say something like 500:1 far more likely to be something other than the ecu. But Im sure they will still be happy to test the ecu. There may be a charge depending on how many hours they spend on it. Email [email protected] on Monday to arrange a service.

Has yours got the ignitor on the strut tower or smart coils? Those ignitors used to do odd stuff when failing or over heating. If you ship the ecu back to NZ we can run it through an automated burn in test which cycles the temp from very high to very low several times while monitoring all inputs and outputs. Its pretty unlikely to be a failing electronic component as if they do ever fail they normally fail for good, but it is not impossible there is a broken solder joint or something that only plays up at a specific temperature or something.

For the temp sensor calibration just set it to Bosch Std NTC. For the pressure it is best to use custom cal 4/5/6. Example below.

Not sure what you are on about, all G4+ ecu’s have at least one CAN bus.

You can do this already. Example below. Assign DI2 to each table activation, when it asks "do you want to disconnect ***" chose NO. Once assigned you can go down to the input pins menu and change settings for pull-up etc. You can also see what functions are assigned to a pin here. That will be a little more tricky. I will have a closer look when I have some spare time.