Adamw

If it stays at zero when you should have oil pressure something is wrong. Have you measured the voltage coming out of it with a voltmeter?

It appears to be a wideband one so it will likely be fine. I have no personal experience with it.

can you attach a log.

Only the dealer you purchased it from can help.

Yes, turn auto connect off, go straight to firmware update without connecting pc link

You definitely do not want AP on your fuel table, it has no direct relationship to engine load at all. MGP is generally the best/easiest option if you have a single throttle body.

If the ecu connects to all other laptops besides the tablet then I dont think there is any point sending the ecu back. Maybe start by looking at the differences between your tablet that works and the one that doesnt. Look in device manager and compare the the USB chipset/hub/root hub etc. The fact that windows doesnt recognise it suggests there is something not right on the USB side. Have you swapped the OTG cable between tablets etc? Tried a usb hub?

That error usually means you have a parameter that can only be transmitted in your receive stream. When you go to >Parameter>add, make sure you have the receive filter selected like below:

The wire in ecus have basically the same cable inside, just a shorter length. You can de-pin or snip the tx/rx wires.

Usually just a power cycle and then re-do the firmware update will solve it. I would suggest completely unplugging the ecu from the car so that you are then 100% sure it is fully powered down. Reboot your laptop as well as the comm port can get hung if something expected happened. After that, plug ecu back in, power up, open PC link but do not try to connect - go straight to the firmware update tool and run the firmware update.

If any wires are connected to the rx/tx pins and have more than about 200mm length they will add enough capacitance to upset the PC comms. You need to ensure only the 2 CAN wires are connected and nothing else.

Can you attach the tune an a log so we can see your settings. It would be unusual for an idle valve to only have influence from 50-75%.

It sounds more like you may have some wires connected to the RS232 pins which will interrupt PC comms. Make sure there are no wires connected to Tx/Rx.

Yes you can pass the same parameter received in one CAN port back out of the other.

You originally said you can’t see anything on the scope. So you first need to fix the wiring so you have valid signals showing on the scope before you start messing with settings or cutting teeth off. As Vaughan already said, this pattern you have will quite likely work with one of the Toyota modes without modifying anything, but we need to see a scope to confirm positioning of the teeth.

That cal looks very odd for a PTC sensor so I suspect it is not accurate. You might be best to test in ice water (0c), room temp (20c) and boiling water (100C) yourself. The 1V voltage change for 180deg temp change is not going to give great resolution either.

It sounds like the aux is working correctly then. The blue light could be as simple as a dead LED, if the engine runs ok I would not worry about that. If you unplug the ecu, do you have 12V on pin 5 with ign on?

With the sensors removed from the engine, but still plugged into the loom and with ignition on so they are all powered up, back probe the signal pin at the sensor connector and connect a voltmeter (use a paper clip poked through the wire seal). The signal wire should be 4V or higher with no metal in front of it and 0V when you hold something steel in front of it (like a screw driver or spanner). If you dont see that voltage change then there is some problem with the wiring/pinout/sensor. If you see a voltage change at the sensor when you do the above test, then the next step would be to do a similar test using the triggerscope, with metal and no metal in from of both sensors. If the signal is getting through the loom and back to the ecu correctly then you will have two flat lines on the scope showing 4+V when there is no metal in front of the sensors and flat lines at 0V with metal in front of the sensors.

Trigger looks good now. I would not worry if you only get one or two errors as it stops, as long as it is not counting up when its cranking or running it will be good.

Yep something not happy there. It starts off ok then gets "stuck" high. Have you got the pinout set up like below?

Yes. You can still have both lambdas connected and you can still view the lambda of each bank separately in the software and logging etc. But if using closed loop control it will use the average of the two banks. So say for instance on a hot day if your bank 1 was running 3% richer than target and bank two was running 5% richer than target then the closed loop would see the average of that error and pull 4% fuel out of both banks.

You can certainly tune the banks separately assuming your trigger system is capable of sequential injection (you can trim each cylinder individually if you wish). The storm however only has single bank closed loop O2 control - so closed loop will just work off the average of all lambda probes.

What is the sensor from? Do you have a part number of something?

For the VVT solenoids the polarity doesnt matter. Connect one side to the aux and the other side connected to the switched +12V branch that is labeled "VVT, idle valve etc" on the drawing I attached. Fuel pump and fan relay wiring is already shown on the drawing I attached.

Yes your trigger matches the Mazda 3 mode. I have no idea about the offset, but provided your ignition timing shows 10deg at both low RPM and high RPM when the timing is locked to 10 then your offset is correct.