Adamw

If I remember correctly the VQ35HR has 4 variable camshafts so if you want VVT to work you will need all 4 camshaft position sensors connected. The G4+ uses both Intake cams for a quick sync strategy so as the absolute bare minimum you need both intake cams connected (it can sync engine position within 120deg crank rotation during start up). Crank sensor to trigger 1. LH intake cam to trigger 2. RH intake cam needs to be connected to DI1. DI1 function needs to be set to VVT cam position, cam type "Inlet RH. Exhaust cams can be connected to DI2,3 or 4. Assign VVT cam position and the cam type to match your wiring.

It will work as is. Set the trigger mode to match whatever it has on the toothed wheel inside the distributor. Set ignition mode to distributor. Rear o2 is not used. Yes. Immobilizer will no longer work. The G3 Evolink is not specific to Evo7-8, it does Evo 1-8.

We would have to build a new trigger mode to run this engine. To do this we would need an oscilloscope capture of the cam and crank pattern together, one with the cams fully retarded and one with the cams fully advanced.

The pinout is very similar to the Evolink. Obviously the evolink is only suitable for a manual transmission, so you cant use it if you have auto trans. Fuel pump and air conditioning relay are swapped but should work by just changing the assignment in the software. The factory MAP sensor goes to a pin that is not connected to anything in the Evolink, but the evolink G3 had its own MAP sensor anyhow so you will just need to connect the hose.

Have you checked base timing with a timing light? Please attach your map an a log of it cranking.

Please attach a log and a trigger scope

2008 would be a V11 I think, which we currently dont support. "V10" chassis code is GG or GD generation 2 shape. V11 is GR or GH, generation, usually hatch shape. We currently have a plug-in ECU for the V10, but not for the V11. We are working on a plug-in for the V11 but it is still at least a couple of months away at a guess.

Ah, it looks like you may have trigger 2 set to hall effect. Can you change it to reluctor and try again.

Also highly not recommended to use antilag with vacuum assisted brakes.

GP PWM input is not an option in G4+. Wouldnt you need a separate device to generate the PWM anyhow? Probaly better to use CAN as @dx4picco suggested. The ECUmaster one, Autosport labs AnalogX or AEM 30-2226 are other lowcost options. Be aware though, CAN inputs are a bit limited in G4+, you could do fuel and oil press over CAN to free up two analog inputs.

Probably more likely a G4 or G4+ as the G4X has only been on the market for probably less than a year or so. So you can either try the G4+ software and see if that connects or gives you some useful error message - or you can slide the ecu out of the case and see what it says on the ECU. Or if you give us the serial number we can confirm that way.

Give us a log to show this then please. The log above doesnt.

Most of it should be ok. One thought I have is to do with sharing the temp sensors. On the Atom, the two temp inputs have fixed pull-up resistors (cant turn them off like our bigger ecus), so to share the factory temp sensors with the atom and OEM ecu you will need to connect the temp sensors to AN Volt inputs. But the Atom only has 3 AN V inputs and you would need 4. One option would be to use a CAN bus wideband (spartan3 is a cheap option) which leaves you the 3 inputs for MAP, ECT & IAT. Flex goes to a DI so that is fine. The FA20 trigger pattern is supported as far as I know (at least BRZ etc is). You will need cam sensor connected as well for sequential. Does the stock ecu have flexibility to cover the extra flex fuel requirement at idle/cruise etc? Because unless the port injectors are going to be tiny you wont be able to add just the small amount of extra fuel required to support flex at low rpm/loads. Most injectors have a minimum PW that they will respond to somewhere around 1.5ms so you will only be able to turn the port injectors on at say half throttle or so. Another issue may be the OEM rpm/boost limits. If these use fuel cuts but you are still injecting fuel with the port injectors things are going to go bad quick.

Can you try "Subaru V7-10" trigger mode, the firmware engineer thinks that should work with your engine. You will likely need to set offset/base timing again to get it to run.

Correct that would be what is meant to happen. Obviously you dont want the ecu to be controlling the idle when you have your foot on the gas or RPM is high. If the RPM is not dropping below the lockout then that means your base position table isnt tuned correctly. There is no "up and down" phase in this log and no fuel cut. Can you try to get a log that shows the behavior you want to fix?

No. Injector and ignition timing numbers in the software are in relation to TDC.

Yep, that is a 300Z ecu, I can just see the "Z" before the Link. So someone has changed the wiring in your car to make the 300Z ecu work. It would be best to change it back to factory, but if I have had enough coffee this morning I think a quick fudge of the firing order may allow it to run. Try changing the firing order to 123456 like below and see if it starts.

If you attach or link to a pinout for your factory ECU I can compare to our ecu.

It is hard to answer that one as in most oem applications they are not connected to the ecu. Typically they get their signal from the abs unit or gearbox sensor. So it would really only be guys that have done something similar to you or engine swaps that would be able to say. However I would expect most electronic speedos will be fine. It will be better to use one that had a 3 wire (hall effect) speed sensor as that will be easier to replicate by the ecu. One that used a VR sensor will need a small circuit to make the aux output signal look like AC. I know a few guys have got Nissan skyline/sylvia (VR/AC signal) ones working direct from ECU with help of a small circuit I drew.

One of the engineers come back to me with an interesting comment. He said it looks like the firing order is wrong as the RPM speeds up for half a cycle then slows down for half a cycle. However the firing order is set the same in the G4+ and G4X maps. That would explain the backfires etc too. Can you take a look at the board on your G4+ ecu to confirm it is definitely a GTR plug-in and not a 300Z plug-in (basically same ecu built with different firing order)? It should have GTR/GTS printed on it somewhere. If the G4+ is a GTR plug-in then that kind of spoils that theory but it could still be worth doing an ignition test to confirm the correct plugs fire. To do the ignition test you pull out the coils and ground the spark plug, set ignition test to say ignition 1 and you should se a spark on cyl 1. Then go along the engine and confirm the others.

Your injector drive settings are correct. You should have the two secondary injectors for rotor one connected to inj drive 3 and the two secondaries for rotor 2 connected to drive 4. But otherwise the secondary injectors shouldnt prevent the thing from running anyhow. Can you give us a log of it cranking and a copy of the map.

Give us a new log showing the problem.

The 350Z abs sensor Im pretty sure is a magnetoresistive type so will be a major ball ache to make it work. Usually you can make them work but you have to experiment a lot with different voltage supplies, pull-ups, pull-downs etc.

In terms of capability/functionality they are the same. On the Link MXG the only difference is the Link branding on the bottom and the dash comes pre-configured to suit a Link ecu so you can connect to an ecu without doing any set-up. All of the full original Aim functionality remains so you can connect to any brand ecu. CAN/K-line/Serial or OBD2.

You will need an aux output assigned as E-throttle relay 2 even if you dont have one.