Adamw

No, I think there are too many differnt variations of 4AGE's that nobody has bothered. I think MRP does a 20V adapter loom but I havent seen anyone local offering 16V options.

One of our dealers "Panic Wire" knows many of the old school toyota's well and makes adapter harnesses for many of them - even if it's not on his website it is worth asking. I wouldnt recommend trying to make your own harness unless you are willing to invest a lot of time and money learning and possibly doing it twice. https://panicmade.com/wiring You can use the distributor or change to COP - IO dont know what the factory wiring is cabpable of if you decided to go the adapter harnes tyupe route. Air temp is nesecary, MAP sensor is nesecary if you want to use an idle control solenoid, wideband is nesecary if you are going to be doing any tuning yourself, and nice to have even if it will be professionally tuned.

A Red G4 xtreme doesnt even have aux 9/10 does it? Do you have aux 9/10 showing in the software?

Try this one, I have made some changes to make it closer to the recommended setup. Most of your problem I think was the E-throttle target table had highly variable throttle values in the top row - it should be all zeros in G4X generally. The "hunting" when coming up to lights is because the commanded throttle position was causing the idle to sit right on the cusp of the RPM that overrun fuel cut switches off - so that was bouncing on/off. I have changed the overrun fuel cut settings a little but this problem will mostly be fixed by itself when the base position is better tuned. Try another log using this map. idle-mini try this.pclx

The G4X VR4 ecu currently uses the same adapter board as the G4+ did so the knock pin is still not available. If you have a bit of time up your sleeve you could get your dealer to place a special order with link and they will add the wire link before shipping. Otherwise Im happy to give you info to be able to do it yourself.

Pin B5 is the supply to the ecu for the E-throttle driver (or aux 9/10), nothing can be powered by that pin. Typically injectors, solenoids and other 12V sensors will all be powered from the main relay along with pin A5. Ignition coils may be from that same main relay or sometimes may have their own relay as shown below depending on total current required.

Link to the log?

No, because they are firing every 360deg but the intake valve only opens once every 720deg. This is how all ecu's work in batch fire mode. To do semi-sequential or sequential you will need a cam senor as you need to know which phase the engine is on.

That is correct, in multipoint group mode the injector drives will be fired in two out of phase groups. All evenly numbered drives will fire together and all odd numberd drives will fire together.

You cant have the CAN lambda on the same port as an OEM stream. You would have to move the lambda to the 2nd CAN port if you want to use the mini option.

Vaughan said to change it to none. It should look like below.

Your map is fine. You will have to get someone to check the wiring in the car to find where the signal is lost. Speed signal should be present on pin 29. The speed signal voltage needs to rise above 1.5V and fall below 1.0V.

I dont think that would be it, the Generic and MXS streams are identical except the lambda channel scaling.

Its highly variable, but the few cars I have tested with thermostats you will see up to around 30psi pump pressure on top of the general cooling system/cap pressure. So the bare minimum sensor I would want is 50psi, and up to around 150psi would be totally fine. Michael's suggestion of the combined press/temp sensor is a good one if you have room to get it in the flow.

I would start by adding say 10-15% to the whole fuel table to get the lambda somewhere closer to target. The idle valve is maxed out at 90% for the whole log so I suspect you will have to adjust the throttle stop so that the throttle blade is a little more open. Ideally you want the idle valve somewhere around 20-50% when warm.

In the area where it goes sligthy rich you have a lambda error of about 0.04lambda so I think you could probably increase the gain a fair bit in the 0.033 and 0.066 cells. You will probably need to lower the conrol rate in the 0/1000/2000 & 3000 cells at the same time as your rate especially at 2&3000 is probably way faster than the time it takes for the exhaust gas to reach the sensor and the sensor respond. Here is an example from our WRX test car (lambda just after turbo about 1M from exhaust valves). This is a G4X so I dont know how well the gains translate across but update rate should be relevant.

You have both igniotion switch and starter set to DI2. It looks like it should only be assigned to starter as that input turns off when you stop cranking. Since "ignition switch" turns off at the same time the ecu cuts fuel and ign.

The last time I installed yaris coils I used the pinout below which loos like it matches yours. That pic you have with the ABCD numbering and two grounds looks like its for a GM LS coil, not a toyota one.

Yes those are a good option and hard to beat value wise.

What model car is it from? Are you sure there are 4 wires connected to that plug in the factory loom?

Can you give us a log as well. The couple of things that jump out at me is the integral is quite a bit higher than I normally see - 0.05-0.2 is more common for e-throttle. And the idle ignition settings dont give you a lot of torque reserve. An idle ign tareget of 10deg and a max clamp of 30 would give you a lot more torque reserve. APS/TPS lockout should also be at something more like 0.5% too.

Do you know how often I've heard that only to be later proven right becuse the fuel is stale or 5 injectors are stuck closed or something... It is a simple test to tick a whole list of possibilities off the list so it is always worth doing no matter if you believe everything is ok. Another map isnt going to help you. Our supra map that yours is based on is from a running engine, the only real significant difference I can think of that would prevent it from running a similar engine from the same family is the choice of the two cam sensors being 360 different as I mentioned earlier. You previously said there is no spark or the spark is very weak, the ecu cant cause a weak spark, so if you do have a weak spark when cranking then you need to look at the coil wiring.

Can you attach the tune and log. I dont have any typical G4+ examples to share as all the cars im working on and driving at the moment are G4X. But there are really no "typical" settings, as exhaust flow, distance to the probe, lambda controller etc will all have a big impact. I generally like to run high gain and lower rates as opposed to the oppsite. And I generally find you still want a small gain in the zero error cell. I will attach a couple examples from G4X later but not sure how relevant they will be to G4+

Try some starter fluid then, that is a quick way to eliminate it being a fuel issue then if still no signs of life with alternaitve fuel you can concentrate on spark instead. Do you have a good sparlk when you use the ignition test function?