Adamw

In the last tune you attached was on April 3rd and you still hadnt fixed the mistake Vaughan pointed out earlier, so I wanted to check the current tune. If you have already used up your attachment allowance the you can upload it to something like googledrive/onedriove/dropbox etc and share a link here.

Everything looks ok in the log. Did you try shifting the trigger offset as I suggested earlier?

No, Pin 80 is not needed. You will need to do something like this:

No, should be nothing else to it. Can you attach your current tune again and a short log of it running.

AN Volt 3 is not really useable, you would need to remove the MAP sensor and capacitor and connect a wire in its place. The aux output connects to ground when switched on. So yes, one side of lamp to ign switch, other side to aux. Adjust the master fuel until it runs ok, most likely it will be about half its current value. Fuel table will likely still need some major re-tuning as you are going to be operating well outside of the bigger injectors linear operating range.

Click the top left corner of the fuel table so that the whole table is selected, then type "*2" and hit enter.

Knock control and closed loop lambda should be turned off until after it is tuned. Cant help with much else with no lambda connected. It sounds like you need to get a tuner involved now.

To free up ign outputs 3 & 4 you will have to move the 2 fan wires to ign 7&8 on the expansion port, then move your coil 3 & 4 wires to the ign 3/4 pins.

Check base timing with a timing light. The fuel table doesnt look sutaiblke for modelled fuel equation - I would suggest multiply the whole fuel table by 2 as a starting point. Turn off IAT trim. Copy the charge temp approximation table example out of the help file. You should then be somewhere in the ball park.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

A screenshot is of little help, please attach your map and a log of the problem.

There doesnt appear to be anything obviously out of place in the log. If the idle RPM is higher than it was previously that suggests there is an air leak.

Has it been tuned and was it previously running ok? Stock O2 sensors wont do anything unless you have already tuned it and set up closed loop lambda in stoich mode.

Injectors, coils, idle valve, vvt and vtec, can all be cut from factory ecu and connected to the Link. Crank, cam, ect, iat, MAP & TPS signal will have to be shared with both ecu's. All the sensors that are powerd by 5V are probably best left with the 5V and ground from the factory ecu and only the signal connected to Link. AC request and AC clutch will have to stay connected to factory ecu since I think that is controlled via multiplex. AC idle up will no longer work.

There is one of my G4+ maps for a E46 that you can grab here: Otherwise, you can use the built-in "Mini R50-53" stream which will give you about an 85% working dash.

As far as I know the speed signal comers from the speedo and is a square wave so should work from low speed. Can you attach your map.

Yep, you wont need ecu hold power. You will probably still need to use that ign switch wire to trigger the main relay though.

According to your diagram, only two of the pins are connected. You will need to check resistance of the solenoid to see if it can be driven directly by ECU. If the resistance is higher than about 7ohms it will be ok, if it is lower than 7 ohms you will need a solidstate relay to control it. Aux 19 or 20 arent capable of GP PWM so it will be best to use Aux 1-8. Only one aux is required, the other side will be connected to 12V.

Correct, it cant work with the mix of new/old cam/crank, they need to be a matched pair.

You've got pretty low voltage on the cam sensor and a few trigger errors showing. Try adjusting the trigger arming thresholds as per the examples below. And I would suggest pulling a plug out to check for spark rather than relying on just the timing light flash, that is not always conclusive.

Youve still only got 7.7V battery voltage showing on the last screenshot. You need to fix that so it doesnt disconnect when cranking. It should not drop below about 10.5V if everything is good.

Log Please

So what is the background to this car that would explain the CAS not working? Has it run recently? has the wiring been changed or messed with recently? I guess the first check is confirm there is 12V on the CAS pin indicated below.

There is no record of any dealer requesting an unlock for that serial number.