Adamw

Update to the latest firmware , the CLL bug has since been fixed.

Yes, use the 3 evenly spaced teeth vvt mode, everything else should be much the same

Pre Crank prime is a time based squirt that happens at power up. All the other enrichments are percentage adder based on the numbers in the main fuel table. You can log them all to see how much of each is working and how they transition from one phase to the next. There is a page in the help file that shows the order they work. I can't give a link today as working from a phone, but if you click on one of the cold start settings and press F1 you will find it.

The only thing that can make the coil heat is either wrong wiring, or the spark edge is set wrong like I mentioned in the first post.

If you haven't wired for ecu hold power then you should also set the stepper motor to reset at key on and give it a few seconds to reset every time before starting .

What do you mean by "you have no crank"? Do you mean the engine doesn't even turn over or it does turn over but just doesn't start? The First thing I notice is you MAP sensor is reading zero koa so that would be the first thing to fix.

your runtimes show the ecu is receiving no CAN data. So assuming the settings have not been changed since it was working that would suggest it either has no power or no CAN connection. If the sensor was broken then there would still be CAN and the runtimes would be reporting a sensor error rather than “Off”.

Yes your wiring sounds correct

Yes, try adding or subtracting 360deg from your present trigger offset. You may be sparking on exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke.

Yes, you will need the external E-throttle module however: https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET

I havent looked at your file but yes, the bit field enumerations with 4 characters are pretty restrictive in RS3. Often you arent interested in all statuses so you can usually just enumerate the important On/Off or whatever the driver will need and leave the less common ones as the number.

Yes that should be fine. Have you checked timing with a timing light? Have you tried changing the trigger offset by 360deg?

That suggests the ecu is receiving no data over the CAN bus. You can confirm the device is getting power by just switching ign on and leaving it for a few minutes, then feel the sensor, if it is warm/hot then that confirms it is getting power. Once that is confirmed then you need to take a closer look at your CAN bus wiring.

Yes your wiring is correct. Coil 1, pin A20 Coil 2, pin A21 Coil 3, pin A31 Coil 4, pin A32

Have a look at the lambda 1 section of the ecu status runtimes view. It should look something like below when the engine is running and everything is configured correctly.

You always will need some integral otherwise it is going to error under steady state conditions due to the TP never meeting target. P & D alone will never get you to target, you need integral to close up any small long term offset. However, it is usually much less than 0.5. More commonly 0.04 to 0.15. So no, you are incorrrect, if you have a correctly tuned PID it will both pass the calibration and operate correctly under all normal use, since they both are effectively just aiming for a target. Your current settings with no integral are not ideal, you will have variable idle and other low speed running issues as the throttle will never quite rest at target. Some days it will be bigger than target, others smaller. Even 0.01 integral will be better than 0, but if you need that little it suggests one of your other control variables are probably not correct.

What does the runtime Lambda 1 error and Lambda 1 status show? ECU status tab of the Runtimes view.

You will need both cams and the crank connected to the ecu. All the ground wires and all the shields splice together and connect to pin A7. Crank signal gets connected to trigger 1, Intake cam signal to trigger 2, exhaust cam sensor to DI1. Use the MAP sensor. Set AN Volt 5 to MAP sensor, turn off any others that are assigned to MAP. From memory the correct calibration for the Blue Storm is 4Bar. Go to the E-throttle menu, set E-throttle mode to off. In the analog inputs menu, turn off TP sub, AP sub and AP main. Then go to ECU controls, TP setup and do the calibration. Current handling and redundancy. Ground to the block or head. Correct. Wiring is in the help file: Wiring Information > Power and Ground Wiring > Power Supplies 1 to 1, 2 to 2 for both. I will attach a generic 4 cyl wiring diagram for a Monsoon, it is pretty much the same as a Storm blue. It shows 3 wire cam/crank sensors so yours wont have the 12V supply mine shows. Monsoon 4 Cyl Generic.pdf

You need to set the spark edge to falling for k20 coils.

Ethanol sensor is not even enabled in the tune you attached, so I can only really guess. But I would say most likely your active edge setting is wrong. Try swapping to the opposite edge.

Do you actually see anything though? They are all hardcoded hidden channels for me:

I think this maybe a known problem at the moment, I have had logs from someone else with a similar problem and I passed it on to engineering this week for a look. It is marked to be fixed in the next firmware release. If you can clear the fault codes and do us a ECU log of it occuring may be helpful. Log Fault codes, battery voltage, aux 9/10 supply, aux 9/10 status and a selection of other common variables all at 50Hz would be good.

Log and tune please

Check you are using the latest 6.19 software and 6.19 firmware in the ECU and in PC link the connection port is set to USB. This typically helps with problem connections.

Unfortunately no, Lambda can only come in via analog input on the V series.