Adamw

Yes, it will need a custom CAN stream set up in the dash though. If you attach your dash and ecu config I will set it up.

Can yo try loading this test map in, crank it over and check if you get RPM when cranking. Note it wont fire, I have turned fuel and spark off. This map I have turned off the cam sensor so it is just using crank. That will tell us if it is just not happy about the cam sensor or both. test map.pclr

Can you attach your tune file please

The early G4X Atoms and monsoons only had a basic trigger scope that captures the signal after its been through the vr conditioning, so in this case the scope shows the expected pattern. @nick99 do you still have a problem? Your note above that says “everything is working now” I assume means you have rpm now?

Our internal notes indicate the non-vanos M50 uses a motronic M3.1 ecu, the Vanos engine uses a M3.3.1. The pinout is similar but does have quite a few differences. A brief look I would guess 20-30 pins will need to be moved in the plug. They are not an easy plug to work with either.

Is there any way for it to know what gear it is currently in? Does it always start in 1st when powered up? Does it always need to go back to 1 when stopped? Im busy for a couple of days but might be able to have a play around on the bench in the weekend.

Cyl 3 looks quite noisy so you may need to turn the gain down further on that cyl to balance it up. Boosted on 11:1 comp with pump gas I suspect will be very susceptible to knock so you will really need audio gear on there to verify if you are displaying knock or just noise. When the ecu has detected knock it will retard the knocking cylinder/s until the knock stops, it records the amount of retard it needed to apply to that operating area in the relevant knock i-trim table. So next time the engine passes through that same cell that had knock previously it will get the same amount of retard so it doesnt knock again. If you continue to drive in that cell for a while (advance delay) and the ecu doesnt detect knock, then it will slowly advance back to zero trim (advance rate). Those trim tables are usually set to clear on power up.

Yeah I will say the ecumaster one is a good option too. Moristech P14 is worth a look too, I havent used one yet as they were just recently released but have used the P12 (no CAN) and P30 and they are both good value.

Yeah sorry, I dont ever remember any other steps to get it connected, im sure they have always just popped right up in RS3 for me. Do you see it in windows device manager when plugged in? Aim's tech support is pretty good if you wanted to give them a try directly, otherwise me acting as a middle man may take longer to find a solution. Ill plug one in at work tomorrow to see if I can come up with any more helpful info.

You really just need to play with it. To test you can temporarily set the limiter to something low like 4000RPM and hold it on the limiter while you change some of those settings to see the effect. I would say your control range is about right, but you will want to increase the exit rate a lot - try around 40% and also play with start cut.

Note the injectr/Ignition output runtimes dont show active in the G4+ when running. Those runtimes only work for on/off type functions like a fan etc. I would try a timing light on it to confirm that spark is somewhere in the ballpark. You wont know the exact number that is being comanded in the locked tune but you are going to need to see a spark somewhere around 0-30BTDC for it to run, so as long as it is in that ballpark you can rule that out. Your TPS looks like it is not working, but that is just FYI, it shouldnt prevent it from starting. It wouldnt hurt to do a triggerscope so we can confirm triggers are good but it appears to be happy in the log. There is nothing much else that jumps out, appears to be commanding fuel and spark.

On the main connector:

Yes that would be correct wiring. Can you do a triggerscope while cranking and attach it here

I think you might have misunderstood me. You originally asked about a CAN output then fitting an E-throttle. So my answer above covered both. So the G4RET is the controller you need to buy if you want to run the E-throttle. The CANPCB & CANF are the connectors you need if you want to connect something to the CAN bus - such as a dash.

I believe they drive the coils inductively at low RPM, then change over to CD at higher RPM. So, it can only work with dumb coils, not smart coils like the Evo7. If you have removed the factory coils and changed over to dumb coils then you would need to use the correct dwell time for the actual coils you have used.

The Kurofune bit is easy, the bigger question that is more difficult to answer is what does the factory ECU and trans controller need to stay happy? I would say the factory ecu will need everything stock - standard CAS, MAF, all sensors including narrowband O2. You can use the Kurofune analog outputs to "pretend" there is still a MAF and O2 there but you really need a good idea of the signal that the factory ECU wants before you can fake it.

What device is the data in stream 2,3,4,5,6 coming from? 5 separate devices with only one channel each?

Ok, it looks like all the 4AGE maps I have are for ITB's, so i've knocked this one up out of bits and pieces. 4AGE 16V single throttle start only Monsoon.pclr.pclx

Can you attach the tune too please. Certainly looks like it might be related to cam position in that log. If you set the exhaust cam target to 0 (or disable the VVt sol) as a test does pressure then control any better? "Minimum pump angle" is the threshold below which the pump solenoid wont be activated. So for instance if the volume calculation determines the spill valve needs to be activated for 9° to correct the fuel pressure on the next stroke, and you have a minimum of 10° set, then the solenoid wont be activated for that stroke. "Spill valve on angle" is how long the solenoid is held energised for. With a normally open pump like yours, once you have energised the solenoid, the pressure in the pump instantly builds and as soon as piston pressure exceeds the rail pressure that pressure holds the valve closed all by itself - you dont need to keep power on the solenoid to keep it closed. It will stay closed until the pump reaches the top of the stroke and pressure under the valve reduces.

Yes you can do that. You will need to use vitrual auxes where you want to trigger a complete change of a table, but for a lot of the functions you will probably just be able to put the switch position on the axis of the table. Here is how the switch would be set up, the cal table is used to convert the voltage into a "position number". And then for something like the RPM limit you could just put switch position on one axis. Here is an example with a 7200 limit in most positions except higher limit in pos 3 and valet limit in pos 3: For boost you could either do it similar to above with switch posiiton on the axis of the boost target table, or you could use virtual auxes to switch tables. Here is an example of switching to a low boost table for position 2:

How many channels do you need?

Confirm base timing first. Then give us a log and triggerscope.

Does it have a plenum and single throttle or ITB's? 24T wheel in the dizzy?

Your trigger polarity is correct. Please attach your current map when you can.

The auto mode does work correctly, you just need to set the parameter range in the parameter settings to something suitable. I tested it before I posted my advice.