Adamw

It looks like you probably have the gauge visual settings in the default layout set to "use parameter min/max" compared to in the 1080 x 1920 layout the gauge is probably set to a manual range. So, 2 ways to fix: Go to your lambda 1 parameter settings (parameter pop out menu on left side of screen), change the range to something more suitable. Or right click on the gauge, go to gauge set up and change it to manual and set the range for only that gauge.

Are you still getting no RPM? Is this a complete standalone install or is it piggybacking a factory ECU? Can you attach your most recent tune again.

Avoid the smartwire like the plague, they are absolute garbage. Very little configuration or customisation in the software and unreliable hardware. Couldnt even park window wipers last time I used one and that one has since been returned to USA for warranty repairs twice. Also they need the expensive Vnet adapters if you want to connect anything to it via CAN. For example an extra USD$400 if you want to connect the ECU CAN etc... Most PDM's can use any keypad. The two common ones are the Grayhill, (square buttons) or Blink (round buttons). I think Racepak sell the Grayhill one - so is this what you like? Have you asked AIM if they support the Grayhill keypad? I prefer the Blink one due to the nicer feel so you can feel when you have actually turned soemething on with gloves on etc. If you need 30 channels then take a look at the moristech P30 - not a lot of info around on them, poor website etc, but they have been around for years and are a solid performer for the cost. It can take the Grayhill keypad. If you can get away with 16 channels then then the ECUmaster one is also good. It can also use the Grayhill keypad.

Contact tech support if you want it looked at.

The BW turbo speed sensors already have a divide by 8 built-in to the electronics inside the connector. So with just the 1/16 frequency divider circuit above you would have a frequency of 168Hz at 92044RPM. For better range you can use instead the Q3 output on the 4024 chip (usually pin 9) which is divide by 8 instead of 16 so will give you 336Hz at 92KRPM.

There is a hardware mod needed on early G4X plug-ins to solve the backfire at key-on. Contact tech support for instructions on getting it fixed.

Can you attach the tune.

Our ECU is not designed for the S52. Have you changed the wiring to match the M50 pinout? What do you mean you cant check base timing? That should be one of the first steps. Have you adjusted the master fuel while running to see if more or less fuel helps? Also, doesnt the S52 have dual vanos? If so you will need to use the S52 trigger mode. Can you do a triggerscope - either cranking or idling.

That's odd. It was only fixed in relatively recent firmware from memory. So it might pay to do a battery disconnect to clear the faults since you have only recently updated firmware it may just be reporting an historic error now. I dont know how this car well, but some dont stop reporting codes until a certain number of key cycles after the fault has been fixed.

Im not sure, but it expects Lambda 1 to be received on ID 950 and Lambda 2 on ID 951. So you have to program one CAN Lambda module to be Lambda 2 before hand using the CAN devices tab.

Please explain what you are trying to do. You can send or receive the same stream on both buses but Im not sure why you would want to do that. 20 CAN slots with 10 custom multi-frame streams is already very generous and more than most ECU's of this level allow.

You do not need to set up a user stream, just set the channel mode to "Link CAN Lambda", You can have up to 8 CAN lambdas all on that one channel.

You have a max of 10 custom streams (ID's) shared across all CAN devices.

You have a G4X though dont you? This problem have been solved natively with the G4X and no modification is required. The wiring change was only needed with G4+ that was slower to boot up.

Whats it got for an ignitor? Is it the grey TFI module? If you wind the engine over by hand to about 20BTDC #1cyl, then pull the dizzy cap off, is the distributor rotor nicely centered under the # 1 post? Trigger offset will need to be somewhere close to correct also.

This is effectively what you have when the boost control RPM and MAP conditions are not meet. ie, the aux driver is open, there is 12V on both sides of the solenoid, therefore no current flow and no "magnetic field" to collapse. When you turn off the ignition, the 12V on the aux pull-up and the 12V on the other side of the boost solenoid will disappear so again you have no magnetic field.

Where does this magnetic field come from when the solenoid is already off?

Your MAP cal looks ok. Your water press is wrong, change to this: Note for the fuel & oil press, instead of using cal 4 you can just set it to the preconfigured calibration "1000Kpa (150psi) TI sensor".

You guys are barking up the wrong tree. The boost valve output isnt even activated until you are above RPM and MAP activation points in the boost control menu.

Setting the fuel mode to off just disables injection. If you want to disable the fuel pump then you can turn the fuel pump aux off (Aux 8). However, niether will do you any good if the ECU is shutting off during cranking, so you need to solve that issue before you worry about trigger calibration.

If its disconnecting it means ECU is losing power. You can confirm by watching the green LED in the ECU circuit board while cranking. Pin 56 is the 12V input from the ignition switch, and pin 54 is the main power supply from the main relay.

You need to tune the control loop to work with your set-up. Settings from even a similar car are unlikely to work well as even a change to something basic such as intercooler pipe volume will significantly effect PID.

From the help file:

I dont have any logic to explain that and it is not behavior I would expect so there could potentially be something failed or a failing solder joint, but you will have to try it back in the car now to see if you have a reproducible problem. Yeah I would suggest moving to ground to the engine block instead. The current I dont expect would be an issue, but you will be pushing all that wideband heater noise into your sensor ground and it will make all other sensors appear more noisy.

The ECU is not seeing the trigger (RPM stays at zero when you are cranking), but the trigger scope shows a signal. So I suspect just the arming thresholds might be a bit high. Change the first two cells of both trig 1 & 2 arming threshold tables to match mine below, then give it a crank and let us know if there is RPM showing when cranking.