Adamw

Also try swapping the active edge on the DI settings to see if that makes it more stable.

If you do a cam angle test on LH inlet cam, with a test pulse count of 8, are the reported cam angle numbers in the runtimes screen stable? Can you list the numbers.

The E-throttle relay is strongly advised, you will lose some of the safety functionality without it. The Audi TT is originally a E-throttle car so the E-throttle relay is factory fitted, already part of the wiring.

It can mount in engine bay fine.

I've found a couple of resources that suggest the TE MCON 1.2 terminals should fit these, im not 100% confident though. The most common part numbers that you will find locally at Mouser or Element 14 etc are 7-1452668-1 or 7-1452668-3. Search those numbers, download a datasheet and measure/compare to yours.

There are two common types of EGT sensors. RTD's - these are a resistance based sensor and in laymans terms work similar to a coolant temp sensor. RTD's can be connected directly to an Analog temp input. RTD Pros: Simple connection, no amplifier needed, no special wiring needed. Cons: Max temp around 900C, generally slower response than TC's. The 2nd type is a thermocouple. Thermocouples only generate a tiny voltage (<50mV at max temp), so for connection to an ecu they need an amplifier to increase that voltage output. TC Pros: Higher temps (~1200C), can be faster response. Cons: needs an amp, more wiring (amp needs power etc), special cable and connectors required if TC wire needs to be extended. A common RTD is AEM 30-2052. For EGT amps there are many options, Texense THK 1250 is a nice single channel one or there are many less fancy low cost options.

For reluctors it always triggers off the falling edge when it crosses zero volts. The falling edge is the only edge that is suitable for triggering in that pattern - the position of the rising edge would change with engine speed (waveform gets taller/teeth get wider as RPM increases) Yes, I think if you shortened that long tooth so you had 4 teeth the same size, 90deg apart that should work.

@chickeneatman Sorry to add a bit of confusdion to the subject - Im going to change my pull-up suggestion from above a little. Vaughan checked his 2GR today and has confirmed he has used a 2.2Kohm pull-up on all of the cams - both the DI's and Trigger 2. Although I have seen the above values from the help file work before, I have a vague recollection that another user on the forum some time ago used the 1Kohm on trigger 2 and it was marginally too strong. 2.2K has been working on Vaughans car for a while now so that is probably the safer bet.

That is very application specific. In my world we often have one for pit lane limit, one for yellow flag limit, maybe one to flash the lights etc.

Hmmm, that is a tricky one. Off the top of my head I dont think we support that at present. That long tooth is going to make it tricky as there is a zero crossing in the middle of it. Do you already have a G4+? I think there would be a better chance of making this engine work with a G4X.

Yeah we have a couple of guys reporting this now. I have asked engineering to take a look if there is something that can be done.

Yes, that looks fine. TPS doesnt need to be shielded. For the CAS ground you can use either engine or sensor ground. The ground pin on the Nissan CAS's are actually coupled to the metal body so get connected to engine ground anyhow. But if I were making a custom loom I would ground it to the main engine ground rather than sensor ground so then sensor ground isnt coupled to engine ground.

They are a Hybrid multilock connector. I cant remember if the ignition outputs are on the big terminals or small - but the small terminals are a 040 series and the large terminals will be an 070. Link dealers can get these: https://dealers.linkecu.com/Term-040_2

The most common options that are easy to fit and have decent response are the Link IAT1/8 or the common GM/Delphi open element that you can get almost anywhere. https://dealers.linkecu.com/IAT1-8_2 https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/129_142/products_id/4172

Yeah they are not the nicest connectors to work with for sure. I typically use a 3303 64CT for most of the small sealed terminals. Where in the world are you? Research suggests there maybe a couple of other series terminals that are easier to get that will fit these housings - provided they are the bosch ones and not a Chinese copy which could use anything. Once I know where you are I will see if I can make a suggestion.

You can use the master fuel trim to make finer increments or you can just select the whole fuel table and multiply it by a few percent.

Yes that should work ok. Also Cartek and Track formula have something similar.

Ok, thanks for the info. Unfortunately I dont have a lot of suggestions or solutions to offer right now. We have had a few users report a similar problem but they are few and far between and it doesnt seem to be a wide spread problem. As yet the engineers have not been able to reproduce it or find a car locally that does it. But we are working on trying to reproduce it and also make the comms more robust. There were several changes to the comms error handling in the last PC link/firmware update so make sure you are always on the latest firmware/software. FYI, my daily driver is an Evo 7 and has had a G4X plug-in in it for more than a year and I have never had one connection issue with it. Almost dead stock however.

Correct, 0261230340 is one of the OEM numbers or PST-F1 is the Bosch motorsport number. And yes thread is M10 x 1.0. I have heard some guys say it will usually screw into 1/8NPT ok but havent personally tried.

Not easily, it is all PCB tracks and surface mount electronics that control the main relay connected to ign 4. You could run COP's in wasted spark would be the easiest option.

The 2GR cam sensors have a weak/low voltage output, so they need a stronger pull-up than the internal one s in the ecu. Each cam will need its own pull-up. 1K for the cam connected to trigger 2 input, 2.2K for all the other cams. The temp sensor will be fine with the internal pull-up.

In terms of dual channel the only one I really have experience with is the Motec LTCD. They seem reliable but are a bit pricey. HV Electronics have a dual channel one which seems reasonable on paper but I have no personal experience. @Ducie54 was using a couple from memory, he may have some feedback. Neither of these will provide much in the way of native error/status reporting. I believe the new Haltech one has a mode that is compatible with Link but again have no personal experience. The old silver cased ones were very slow, not sure if that has been improved in the newer one. Otherwise you can buy two Link Lambdas for about the same $ as the LTCD but will give full integration in terms of status/errors etc. Also maybe worth considering the 14point7 spartan 3 - has worked well for me on several budget cars.

The CAN bus is more robust with proper termination. It will unlikely be a problem since you arent transmitting lots of data but if you start having comms problems that would be the first thing to fix.

Why cant the dealer help you? That code you have posted above is not the correct code for SN1635. Our system has no record of a dealer requesting the code for G4+ serial number 1635.

Yes, it should be close to 12V when off and 0V when on. The fact that is is outputting only 5V suggests there is a hardware issue there.