Adamw

As per my note the ECU and dash already have one built-in, so provided you have those at each end of the bus you dont need to add one.

I now know of a couple of guys running these with the E36 plug-in now, they are a bit of a pain due to the very low impedance, so they need a 12V pull-up to make them work. Read this thread to the end:

The DI's can be switched to ground or to positive, they can be set up to work either way. So you should be able to just connect it up to the stock wiring and it will work.

Ok, in that latest map, all your errors have gone away, None of the aux outputs are in fault, The AN Volt channels are all reading zero and the temps are all reading 5V (pulled up). So if it all works correctly on the bench, but everything turns to crap when connected to the car then it suggests there is a wiring problem in the car somewhere.

Can you remove from car and power it up on the bench with only 12V connected to Pin A5 and Gnd connected to A34.

We give each member a decent allowance, you have used your allowance up in other posts. You can use google drive or onedrive or a picture host to share files and pictures

Can you attach the new file please. There were some weird voltages reported in that last tune, I want to see if those have changed.

Im not sure what you are doing wrong then, it works fine for me. Here is me sending the same CAN data testing the Mini stream vs the E46 file I gave you. The speed calibration is slightly different but data comes through correctly (mini uses 10/15 with a small offset, my E46 file uses 10/16 with no offset). It might be a good idea to turn off the OBD2 that you have set to CAN 1. Here is the Mini CAN template with data 0x5E6 (decimal 1510) input via CAN. LF wheel shows 100Kmh : And here is my E46 setup (I just changed stream 5 to CAN 1 because it was convenient for me to connect my CAN tool to). Same CAN data 0x5E6 being sent, LF Wheel shows 94Kmh:

If you measure resistance between say pin 116 & the engine block, is it less than about 1ohm? If you unplug the ecu and measure resistance between pin 60 and 42 in the loom plug what resistance do you get? Same resistance if you measure directly across the two sensor pins?

Start by updating the firmware. You are on the first release so a lot has changed since then. Then can you attach a copy of tune again, saved after the firmware update.

No that should be correct, but to rule out a bad ground connection somewhere please try back probing the ground pin at the sensor plug and connect it straight to engine ground with a small jumper wire.

Ok, Im starting to run out of ideas, but I just had another similar case from years ago pop into my head. This was similar symptom where the triggerscope showed a wave form but the ecu runtimes showed no signal and no RPM, on that it turned out to be no ground connection between ecu and trigger. For whatever reason there was just enough of a ground backfeed through other devices for the triggerscope to draw the waveform but there was no signal reaching the micro after going through the other conditioning circuits after the triggerscope hardware. The factory RB CAS grounds through both the ground pin/wire and the metal body of the CAS, so if that ground wire was broken, the factory CAS would still work, but you new sensor which has a plastic body wouldnt. So as a test, just connect the cam sensor ground wire direct to the head/block and give it a try.

Yes you can do a custom cal or there are some built-in calibrations for various 3rd party options. What wideband device do you have?

Im pretty sure you have there a V44 based plug-in which didnt have knock control on-board. It could do knock control but needed an external knock amplifier device. https://www.vi-pec.com/techdata/vipecdigitalknockamplifier.pdf If you go to the knock control menu in the software then >knock setup>knock mode have a look at what options that gives you. If it says "knk internal" in the list then you have onboard knock control, if it says "DI knk interface" only then it needs the external amplifier.

trig1 signal should show "yes" as soon as the voltage coming in on the trigger 1 pin exceeds the arming threshold. So it is odd that is is not picking it up based on your scope pics being 0.5-1.0V. Can you try it with the arming threshold set like below. Can you also try this: Set trigger mode to to Chev LS1. do a store and power cycle. Once powered back up change the triggermode back to multitooth/missing and reluctor etc as above and try again. I have seen some cases where the trigger settings have not initialised properly and setting it to something completely different overwrites the bad setting and then it works when you change it back. I dont see signs of that problem here, but it is worth a shot.

It sounds like a Linkplus (probably says LPV14). SUB24NEW is a sub board for a 24T reluctor which would match most toyota distributors - your distributor would need the 24T wheel inside, im not sure if all 4AGZE did.

No, and unlikely to be in the near future. Not in high demand and quite a difficult car to interface with due to lots of CANBUS and most are auto trans.

Yes I think there is room for improvement there. Its hard to make a suggestion from a pic, I usually just experiment adjusting one value at a time while watching it live, but my feeling is a bit more D will probably help the overshoot, may need less P too.

As for tech support, we still support the G1 from ~1990 daily. As for software updates my understanding is it will likely be bug fixes only, no major new features added.

It sounds almost like PC Link has locked up? Is the little refresh rate "frequency" at the top right of the screen bouncing around like it is live?

Yeah, I think would be good to have a GP boolean on/off table too. Its been asked for a few times in the past, specifically for VTC. I will get it on the wish list to consider. You can just use a GP PWM but you have to choose your axis breakpoints carefully. For instance if you want one switch point at 4000RPM, you need a column at 3999 and a column at 4000 to get rid of the interpolation.

You could wire a button to a digital input and set it up as GP input, get him to push the button when he passes the start line on the first fast lap, that will leave something to reference in the log. Provided you get laptimes from reasonably accurate laptimer system after the run, then you can then enter the laptimes in to the log file manager after downloading to have the log broken up into laps.

Does trigger 1 signal show "yes" in the runtimes screen when cranking? Does the trig 1 error counter count up? Can you attach your tune and a log of it cranking.

Yeah, its still not a great waveform but looks like it should start. Do you still have no RPM?

I chased engineering last night to get a feel for what the delay was. Most of the other G4X's ECU's we had quite a large stock of prior to all the covid stuff, but the Fury was just entering production at the start of it all. The long shut down of most of the major electronics manufactures (mostly China) and the consequent stockpiling that many of the large manufacturers done has caused worldwide extinction of several needed electronic components and a massive backlog for the component producers. At the moment we are waiting in the cue like everyone else with no firm ETA sorry.